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Changing the ATF

Chris

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Only done this once on a 90 years ago. Given that you don't get all of the old fluid out when you pull the plug, is there a 'formula' for replacing the fluid properly.

eg drain once, replace what comes out, drive 5 miles, settle, drain, replace what comes out - turn around three times touch your nose and click your heels together?

Any pointers on a proper job.

Chris
 
Not done it on an 80.

On my last Pajero auto i pulled one of the pipes that went to the oil cooler at the front. started her up and then cycled it through from park and the way back to l and up again pausing for a wee second or two.

Let it pump it all out.

Pipe back on.

Refilled and drained it again.

kept at it until the oil coming out was cherry red instead of burned and brown.

went through a heap of ATF but the gearchange was much better.

bet there are better ways than that (hopefully!). certainly the heel clicking is good.

At least i had a whole heap of atf to chuck back in the fuel tank, a bit at a time ;)
 
Chris said:
Only done this once on a 90 years ago. Given that you don't get all of the old fluid out when you pull the plug, is there a 'formula' for replacing the fluid properly.

eg drain once, replace what comes out, drive 5 miles, settle, drain, replace what comes out - turn around three times touch your nose and click your heels together?

Any pointers on a proper job.

Chris
That sounds like a proper job Chris :lol: There are ways of getting a bit more out but unless the oil is in a bad state I'd just go for the above.
 
Patience is the key, let it drain over as many days as possible and if you can jack the front up.

I've had some trucks dump out 8l in a matter of a few minutes and then others that I have struggled to get 4l out of in several hours.
 
Thanks fellas. Not really sure what a 'bad state' looks like. It's not red and clear like new stuff but doesn't smell burnt or anything. Just darkish and a bit grubby. How much do you think I should try and push through it. It doesn't matter how much comes out in one go if you replace that each time. So what if I managed to get 5 new liters in there. Sound a reasonable swap? It's bang on, on the dipstick when running at the moment. I'll see what I can get to dribble out. Any point in running the engine and cycling the box in between bouts - that is if I were to put it on ramps an just leave it draining? I suppose you have to fill it through the dipstick tube as per the 90?
I have a garden sprayer which is just great for oil delivery. Works a treat on diffs.

Chris
 
Darkish and a bit grubby is probably only one down from in a bad state (very technical this eh?) and given it's new to you in that state I'd aim for 4 drain & refill @ approx 5lt a time and then about every 10k a single drain and refill based on nothing remotely like scientific reasoning :) I think the 80 series auto box fluid gets worked very hard and that only increases with bigger tyres, more weight, roof tents etc and the OEM cooling can be a bit inadequate. If I bought another 80 I would put an auto box temp gauge quite high on my list of purchases for piece of mind and use a good quality synthetic ATF - it's much cheaper than a box rebuild and heat is the thing most likely to kill your box.
 
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Jon, that'll do for me. Based on nothing remotely scientific other than experienced wisdom wins every time as far as I am concerned. Better see if PCS can get me a 20 l vat of (good quality synthetic) ATF in the morning.

Chris
 
Well I got a little over 5L out in the first attempt. Going to run it around a bit and then go again. Bought a 25L barrel as it was much more cost effective. Did the transfer oil while I was under there. UHG! That was not in good condition either. We'll see what the ATF look like when it come out later. It was translucent, but the colour of really old wine. Reddish brown and pretty thin.

Chris
 
Well, 5L came out the second time, again. Still looking pretty nasty. Very little on the magnetic plug, but the fluid looks metalised. Very fine particles floating in it like metallic paint. Seems to be alloy - as it's not maggernetizable. So I shall let this circulate a bit more and then go for a another flush. If only my truck could speak. I'm sure it must be feeling better.

Chris
 
i've just dropped the oil out of mine, but also wanted to clean the gauze filter. is is best to clean it the first time i drop the oil just in case i dislodge some crud, or is it best to do a couple of oil changes over the next few weeks, and clean the gauze on the last change? or is it best left alone?
any thoughts, tom.
 
I'd clean the gauze. It is a fine mesh and will clean up well with care. Takes away a lot of the stuff you'll be flushing. Remember where the bolts go as they are different lengths.
 
i've put new oil in today. 6.5l in total came out overnight with the front up on ramps. i left the gauze for now as i can't get to a clean enough environment to risk taking off the bottom of the auto box. one gust and a handfull of sand, mud dust etc off the back yard and i would be in trouble. think i'll wait till i can get into my mates garage over the pit.
regards, tom.
 
Dropped the ATF once more tonight and it was running pretty clean. Figure that will do for a bit. Will change at a shorter interval once I have done a few miles and I figure that will reset the clock on this one. It feels as there is a more direct connection between throttle and forward movement. Picks up a little better and not such a pause on the change between over run and acceleration at junctions. That's another job off the list.

Chris
 
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