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Wheel nut torque on 80

i thought it was 122

could depend on what type of lug nut you have though!

FT is usually good enough :D
 
Just enough so you can loosen them with the standard vehicle tools onboard.

I don't measure it anymore, always use the same tools. But I think something like 100 to 120 Nm should be wright.

Cleaning wheel and hubface before assembly is very beneficial.
Also try to give decent torque on all nuts with the tyre of the ground.
Steel wheels you should start to feel the wheel flex when tightning, this tension is what actually keeps the nuts in place.
 
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So what is the torque meant to be for alloy wheels with bevelled nuts? I have been tightening mine to 123Nm (90ftlb) according to my Haynes manual and it seems a bit on the light side :?
 
I don't totally agree with ft
some ones ft could be different to some one else's ft
Doing them ft you could stretch the studs which could cause them to sheer on corning hard or high impact
if a torque wrench is not available i always use the supplied wheel brace from the vehicle
which then if you have a breakdown you will be able to un do the nuts
and don't forget you should always retorque after 30 miles
My 2p worth
 
isn't the "until it creaks" good enough? Always pretty close to FT and the creak will be at the same point regardless of muscle.
 
Crispin said:
isn't the "until it creaks" good enough? Always pretty close to FT and the creak will be at the same point regardless of muscle.
:lol: That sounds even less scientific than FT :thumbup: What makes you think the creaking happens at the same point and what happens if there's some grease in there, thus no creaking? :think:

What about using a torque wrench a couple of times to get a feel for the effort to torque to 120 Nm or whatever makes sense (you might need a substantial torque wrench to measure FT) - then you can repeat to roughly the same torque in future. At least you will be in the ballpark rather than waiting for creaking to happen :pray:
 
You could go by the "two grunts" technique, its the noise you make when doing something up tight.
If you fart though, you have probably gone past FT :cool:
 
Holy thread resurrection Batman! Just doing some work on the 80 and had to literally bounce on the breaker bar to get the wheel nuts off - I think the tyre shop we used last must have just wound them up with the windy gun :rage:

Anyway, I couldn't remember the torque setting, so checked the usual font of all knowledge (i.e. this forum) and came across this thread. Is 76ft/lbs correct, with alloys and shank nuts? I've tightened them to this, but it doesn't seem very much torque to me...

Thoughts? On steelies I'd just do FT, but I'm a bit more cautious of alloys (and stretched/snapped wheel studs more generally).
 
I've had wheel studs shear off in the past. It turned out I'd been over tightening them, just using the "until they feel right" method. When they sheared they did so very easily, the nut wasn't tightening and it just fell off with the broken stud, scary. Since replacing them I use a torque wrench and yes, 76lb/ft feels inadequate. I must have been hitting over 100ft/lb previously.
 
Once i torqued mine and decided there and then thats its for new studs but not old ones .

I like to think a wheel spanners length (leverage) should allow an 18 year old girl to make them tight enough so its just a case of know your own strength and limit it .
 
From the Max Ellery workshop manual

Toyota Landcruiser 1990 to 2007

70 80 and 100 series

Wheel Nuts steel 209Nm 154ft lbs

Wheel Nuts Aluminium 131Nm 97ft lbs
 
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