Underbody protection.

Mornin' folks,

Is it possible to get some type of liquid type stuff that I can apply th the underbody to stop and prevent anymore rust?
Living in N.I. the road service use plenty of salt in the winter and as well as living near the coast I think it wouldn't be a bad thing as I intend to keep my cruiser for upto the next 9/10 years.

Cheers

Phil

yes - Dinitrol or waxoyl.

currently wirebrushing, anglegrinding and chipping old waxoyl and rust off chassis on my 95-series in stages, and then spraying with
dinitrol RC900, then 2 coats of chassis black and a final coat of dinitrol 4941 underbody wax

Cheers Andy,

As a bit of a guesstimate, how much time will all that take?
Have you taken your cruiser off the road to do it or are you doing it in stages and how much dinitrol will you be needing?
And lastly how man years and or mileage would I get out of it?
There's nothing on my chassis so hopefully just need a wire brush.

Thanks

Phil.

Same here, but I have been pressure washing, then using Hammerite primer as it is a rust killer, then brushing on a shutz underseal. I did spray my jeep with shutz, but got 50/50 on the jeep and me ! So brushing is more controllable, but slower.

You will find the the factory coatings never bonded with any of the chassis welds well and will readily flake off.

It is a good idea to flush out the chassis box section too, or the the back section might end up like a few 90's I know with a panzer plate chassis. :0)

It took me 2-1/2 full-days to do the rear axle

and i have done drivers side front chassis and wishbones (forward of the front of drivers door)
That took maybe a full day of work, but i spent a few days doing it as i was also replacing wheel bearing and CV joint.
So yes I am doing the work in stages.
I spent a day doing inside of chassis rails after using jetspray and hoses to sluice them out - 10 cans (aerosol) of chassis wax
Also check all the drain holes are clear. I also removed plugs from sills and sprayed them with wax

I reckon about 6 cans (aerosol) of RC900
I also got about I think about 10 cans (aerosol) of 4941

no idea on years/mileage, as depends where you are - In NE Scotland roads get very salty October-april...

OK Gents I'm concerned about underbody rust on my cruiser. Albeit my cruiser is an import I'm aware there is no underbody protection as present. What are you gents doing?

I have just ordered an underbody Schultz (sealant) gun from Ebay and I am now wondeing if there is an easy way to clean everything up before application.... I see that diy sand/grit blasters can be bought to run off about 60 to 90 psi... has anyone tried one of these? (or is a powerwash enough?)

[FONT=&quot]Gents these are my options:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]To rust treat and epoxy coat the underside (over paintable Very smooth finish)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]To rust treat and rubber stonecat (over paintable slight texture finish)[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]To rust treat and Waxoyl

What have you chaps done and with what results?
[/FONT]

This is why I'm looking for some underbody protection.

Looks like a lot of work! I think a sandblaster is required!

Fertan would be a good place to start it turns the rust white so you can see what to blast off and converts and seals what's left giving you a few months to get around to coating everything .

Thx Shayne how does Fertan compare to RC800, and would you use waxoyl afterwards?

I've only ever used fertan so can't comment on which is better but from what I can gather all rust converters work on pretty much the same principal probably using the same basic ingredient . Truth is I've started this job so many times only to forget about its continuation I've pretty much decided a visit to rust busters will be money well spent .

I've been quoted £260 from Gavin at www.thepaintshoppros.co.uk to treat with RC800 and Waxoyl

Bargain if I could find someone like that around here I'd be booked in tomorrow .

@iceman : did you get the work done ? If so, what was the result like. Also, have an 'after' pic to share at all?

If you want the car anymore rust 7-10 years, it is necessary to completely remove all rust from both the body and the frame. The next step in the process with a rust converter, which neutralizes the remnants. All painted with sour reaction primer from STANDOX. Then, the frame can be handled by Würth ballistic mastic and then the bottom of the wax. As well as cavity wax.


But if you want to do something about it, the rust must be completely away, as if placed on a protective rust, the rust it even works there at the bottom.


Here you can see all the full anti-rust processing that will protect much, much longer. - http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/55363-Rust-rust-rust-off

@Rarf : thats a pretty epic anti-rusting effort there; i dont have either the resources, nor the space, nor the ability to execute on something as extensive as that. I've only got some very superficial surface rust in a couple of places on the chassis, the body is pretty clean at this point ( as far as I can tell, and I've gone looking a few times ). So looking to see what are the next sort of simple steps needed here to get a clear 6 - 8 years more of rust free running.

Hi. Newbie question
does getting rc900 done add value to my lc3 2006. I've been quoted 650 to get it done. Worthwhile?

R111KYO said:

Hi. Newbie question
does getting rc900 done add value to my lc3 2006. I've been quoted 650 to get it done. Worthwhile?

Click to expand...

Odd question that but suppose it's fair to say your 650 won't add 650 to the value if you sold it next week , but a little rust ignored now might well be a minus 650 on the resale value a year from now as rust will only get worse .