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Advice on cooling down my 96 LC

cgann

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Apr 12, 2014
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united_states
I have a 96 LC with 228k miles. It has been overheating on road trips the last couple years (hot days, going over passes). I have heard of aftermarket coolers solving these problems.
Any recommendations on what parts and where I could get them would be appreciated.
thanks
 
Here's something that I typed in reply to a similar thread recently that may be of some help to you
As far as I'm aware the overheating woes associated with the auto 90/95 series is a larger issue with the TD's and not found so much in the D4d's. I'm not aware that anyone ever found a diffinative answer as to why the TD models are so prone to overheating, except that Toyota may have inadvertantly designed the cooling system with little or no room for the vehicle getting older and putting on a few miles. People have looked at all sorts that I've read about to cure or improve the possible issues that may cause the overheating from replacing the rad for a new one, replacing the water pump, flushing the system through and replacing the thermostate all as a just in case any of these may be the cause of the overheating troubles.


My understanding of the reasoning behind fitting a separate stand alone cooler for the auto box is to remove the heat load of the auto box from the finely balanced engine cooling circuit. It's only more recently I've read people talking about the intergrated OE auto box cooler failing and the auto box oil becoming contaminated with water. I've have to say that if Swampy had not come with a separate auto box cooler fitted I would have probably not fitted one myself!


The single most effective thing that I've read about notably improving cooling on an older higher mileage 90/95 series was either servicing or replacing the Viscouse fan coupling. Some thing that in the most part gets overlooked as just working because it's going around.


if Swampy had been an older high mile 3.0TD auto without a separate auto box cooler fitted I would have probably fitted a new rad and either replaced or serviced the viscouse fan coupling.


Don't quote me and I'm very happy to be corrected, but I don't think that they have a problem with the head. They seem to have a finely balanced cooling system that can in some cases easily overheat causing head damage.


You could always buy a manual as they don't appear to suffer from the overheating woes of the auto. Probably because the cooling system on the manual is not having to cope with the heat load of the auto box cooler as the viscouse fan coupling slowly becomes less efficient with age.
 
I think I would install an electric radiator fan with thermostat ... and discard the viscous fan.
There are many different electric kit on ebay.


The next step must be a thermostat that opens earlier.
 
I think I would install an electric radiator fan with thermostat ... and discard the viscous fan.
There are many different electric kit on ebay.


The next step must be a thermostat that opens earlier.

I know Ben on the forum was running a electric fan instead of the original viscous fan and had even worse overheating problems which got solved when returning back to the original setup so I wouldn't advise changing that.

What at can be changed in a lower degrees thermostat so water enters the engine at a earlier stage and has enough time to cool the engine. A intercooler would cool EGT temperatures drastically and reduce head temperatures which is the most prone failure on these engines. a free flow exhaust works the same way. Plus you'll get power increases going these way too.

Keeping your oil, drivetrain and cooling system in top condition will help in the long term as well. If going up a hill drop a gear instead of straining the engine in a higher gear as this will make the water pump spin faster and circulate water around the engine quicker.

New rads are recommended with age as they deteriorate over time, mud gets stuck in between the rad and air condenser unit.
 
I'd still be looking at the viscouse fan as my first port of call before making non OE modifications on the basis that it was alright for X number of years until now. Here in the UK a brand new coupling is about £270! The oil in the viscouse fan is about £20 and in other countries can be bought from Toyota as a service item, but not here in the Uk! Here people commonly use radio controlled toy car diff oil with a 10000cst.

Link to a you tube video of a viscouse fan coupling service http://www.landcruiserclub.net/forums/showthread.php/40097-coupling-fan-refill-oil-silicone
 
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I want to add that I purchased my LC with 165k miles (now 228k) in 2009. Since I have replaced radiator, all hoses, thermostat and water pump. I will look into the thermostat that opens quicker, and the viscouse fan.
Thank you for the great responses so far! Your assistance is appreciated.
 
Intercooler would help...

However, an electric fan, too ... It's a matter of getting the one who can pull enough air through the radiator... And of course, a temperature switch that turns on, for example 75 degrees.

The next step could be a custom-made radiator ... It's not that expensive and you can get it done in various thicknesses, if there is no room for it to be bigger.
 
I dont think electric fan on its own would be the way to go - as an additional option it may work though.

A viscous fan with a effective cowling will always be more effective than a electric one with no cowling - we have seen it so many times on the Nissan track car forums I am on !

If you were set on ditching the viscous the best bet would be to get a pair of electric fans and a custom cowling for them.
 
There was another petrol owner with exactly same issues, was the viscous fan needing a service.

I would check it first.

On startup fan should be on full, for maybe 20 seconds, then drop off - its a really audible noise change.
 
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