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towing an automatic

Olazz

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I've just returned from another African adventure to the central Kalahari, great trip and write up will follow on my blog....

I came across and had a number of discussions with various individuals in SA and Botswana about towing automatics. We had to tow a broken down 70 series into a town in Bots. My truck is Manual so not a concern for me, but the discussion centred around the damaged caused to the transfer/gearbox as a result of no oil circulation.

2 distinct schools of thought:

1) only tow if you drop both props
2) as long as transfer case is in neutral, then no problem towing and auto.

So which is correct?
 
I would say that number 2 is the correct one to be honest but if it was my vehicle that had to be towed along way i would take the props off to make sure.

If the transfer box is in neutral then it should not turn the gearbox and cause the problem.

when doing HGV/PSV recovery if we had a auto that had to be suspended we would take out the half shaft to 1 rear wheel and this was then fine. not easy on a 4X4.
I have towed PSV auto with the engine running and this was also fine didnt take out the half shaft either.

stu
 
Over short distances you don't really need to do any of that. But let's not get into how far it not too far, eh?

My understanding is that because there is a viscous coupling involved even when in neutral, there are components still turning. The drive flanges will be going round, yes? So something in the T box must be going round. This will create heat. But as the gears are sitting in oil I would doubt very much whether this is being transferred anywhere else along the drive train - eg into the TC etc. The neutral lever disengages drive from the T box to the auto box but is there enough friction in there to turn other shafts? I dunno. My view would be to assess make a decision based on critically, distance and nature of break down. If it was going to be a tow on tar of 200 kms at good speed, I'd drop the props. Slow wind 20 kms to a garage, I'd knock it into neutral and stop after a while and feel if it was getting hot.

Didn't know you were away again you lucky b'rd.
 
Hi Rolly, everything good? AFAIK both are ok, I can't see why not.

Andy

Yes top form thanks bud. came across some very strong opinions on both sides to this over there.

Didn't know you were away again you lucky b'rd.

Gotta keep my truck employed CJ... no point in letting it sit idle after all the prep and build eh !. Had a couple of hairy moments this time, a shooting whilst out with Marius in CT and an attempted highjacking late at night in Northern Cape!
 
Ahh but if you keep using it like that you'll wear it out and then what will you use when you want to go away, eh? Ahhaaa, I knew you hadn't though this through properly.

Oh hang on, uhm....
 
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I'd only do it by dropping both props!
Well that was my suggestion to the guys with the 70 series. Had to tow them for about 140km, combination of dirt and tar, but they insisted on just knocking it into neutral. The TC and box were very very hot when I stopped before the tar section and suggested they check, but they said no need crack on. Hate to think what damage may have been done on the 100km tar section @60kph.
 
did they put the gearbox in neutral as well? it might be ok but i wouldnt take the chance.

now 70 series auto?
 
did they put the gearbox in neutral as well? it might be ok but i wouldnt take the chance.

now 70 series auto?

Yep g/b in neutral.
Yes was a BJ 74LX - factory auto.
 
Probably doesn't have the centre viscous coupling I'd guess.
 
I was always told if the engine isn't running then the oil pump in the box isn't pumping/cooling= box game over.

Supprised it didn't seize solid.
 
Gotta keep my truck employed CJ... no point in letting it sit idle after all the prep and build eh !. Had a couple of hairy moments this time, a shooting whilst out with Marius in CT and an attempted highjacking late at night in Northern Cape!

You're in the jungle now, baby. Look sharp.
 
Hi All, been reading thread and it started me thinking, on 70 series (lj78) there is a little red button to the side of the auto shift, I don`t know, but I understand it disengages transmission. Is that suitable for towing or just workshop use? also having used it would you then press a second time to bring back to normal? and yes I do know it`s not for ejector seat,(lol ) Many thanks,

John
 
As far as I am aware the red button on the shifter is to allow the selector to be moved without the ignition being switched on.

Andy
 
Thanks Andy, duly noted and corrected - always learn something new and useful on here, cheers

John
 
I must have misread this, I thought it was Marius car jacking someone. Again

He just looks shifty
 
Sorry for Hijacking this thread but Cape Town seems to be the new crime capital of South Africa. Not good at all.
 
Props off unless you are travelling less than 40 mph for about 5-10 miles, seen too many burnt up boxes by towing with props attached. Karl is quite right about the lack of oil circulation. You would get away with towing with props on if the engine was running but that's it. Drop your props every time just to be safe.
 
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