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Cv joint advice

warrenpfo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 21, 2010
Messages
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So I have started my front axle rebuild on a Sunday but bloody hell no way I was going to get it fine in a day.

Anyway the passenger side is showing wear and I was thinking of swapping it with the drivers to even the wear out. Your thoughts on the below pictures.

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The balls are good with no marks at all and the cage looks good as those marks you can see look very uniform do assume they are machined but may be wrong.

I just want to get your thoughts. The wear is 100% directional so was thinking by swapping them over I make be good for many more miles.

Thanks
 
Of course, there's plenty of sense reversing them, if the wear is directional, in theory, it's a good idea.

Chris seems to pop these birfields in and out before breakfast, and almost for fun, when he's a bit bored, but IMO it's a big job, and although I've paid someone else to do it (and I have no shame in admitting that) I wouldn't want to reverse them and then find in 6 months, I have to strip it all down again.

On the other hand, they're expensive to replace, even cheaper ones are expensive.

There's your dilemma Warren.

I had new ones in for 7 years (circa 150k kms) and at the first sign of clicking, one let go.

What to say. I would replace them... because that's what I did. The real choice is yours, but you did ask for opinions :lol:
 
Practice Clive, practice. Reversing them doesn't seem to equate to new joints. That's for sure.

I put gen Toyota ones in this time. Had enough poor experiences with after market ones. There just doesn't see to be a mid price replacement. Either ridiculous money, or £50 region.
 
Practice Clive, practice.

You're sounding like my missus Chris :lol:

Sadly, my oily hands days are all but over Chris, I blame lack of time, but there's more to it than that. I centered my steering wheel today by shortening the front tie bar with a turn an a half. What a pain. The clamp bolts were tight, not seized though, and the bar took all my energy to rotate, even with gallons of release oil and a 1m steel tube on the stillsons. I was sweating like a pig when I finished.

Too old now :eusa-naughty:
 
Did the very same thing myself recently Clive and my after market rod ends moved effortlessly. In fact, I adjusted the rod by hand only needing the spanner to release the clamp.
 
They are not clicking or noisy but as I am in there doing the oil seal I wanted to ask if the wear pictured above is excessive or what to expect.
 
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I'd say that was significant wear Warren.
 
Not what i wanted to hear but what i thought might be the answer.

I will give toyota a call tomorrow and make sure i am sitting down.
 
Sitting down and strapped in Warren. Trust me. Simon might be able to get you a price. Not sure if anyone is doing a shipping order in the near future. Shame to put those back in if you are doing a total proper rebuild at the second.
 
I have 3 weeks to play with as the wife is not around and can use her car so will see what i can source but yes I am expecting the worst. Do they at least come with the upgraded roller bearings in or do i need to get those too?
 
Roller bearings? No Warren, a CV is just that. A CV.

Put it this way, I'd sooner put a new aftermarket CV in there than out those old ones back in. Most are fine for just on road use. And you can buy many for the price of one genuine one. But it's the hassle of doing the job again.

The roller bearings go in the stub axle. Milner sell the stub complete (genuine) for about £100 per side built up. Knocking out the old top hats and putting you new bits in isn't hard. Trickyish, but not hard. Take the price of the parts off the cost of the whole unit and that's what your time equates to. Plus the bearings in there will be OEM. The ones Milner sell are copies. But they don't do a hard job and mine have been OK. But DO grease them well. If they get dry, they will come apart. It's not an essential job in my view but a bit more elegant.
 
Thanks Chris

I have 3 weeks to play with as the wife is away and can use her car so i could order from the USA if thats an option. I am frantically enjoying the peace and quite whilst stillin bed googling the hell out of cv joints with a cup of coffee knowing i really should get my ass uo as i still have the drivers side to strip and who knows what i will find.

My hat goes off to you for being able to do it in a day but then it is my first time so a bit of a learning process.

Any rough idea as to the cost of an OEM CV ??? I am thinking £300 each but may be way out
 
You're in the right ball park there Warren
 
If they are not clicking or noisy they must have considerable life left ? I don't think they explode on just road use or occasional off road.

I know I keep on about my audi but it was a similar quality car to the LC. The CVJ' started ticking on full lock at 200,000 miles but were still OK at 240,000.

Toyota prices seem higher than ever. £440 for a 12 volt starter ......... non starter really.

I've just paid £400 for an 80 radiator after discount.
 
Frank that is my thinking having had a bit of a google it would seem that until they start clicking just shove them back in and worry about them later. I still think i will swap them across but still need to strip the drivers side and may find its even worse so who knows.

Best get up and get cracking if i want to achieve anything today.

As an FYI Amayma trading have cv joints listed at £172 still with shipping and the chance of customs getting you but it might be worth a chance at that price. i am waiting to hear back form them.
 
have to admit the one that went pop on me never clicked on full lock. I was stuck in some snow a couple of years ago, giving her some rock and roll. trouble is they make a mess. scored inside the knuckle, tore the axle seal to bits and trashed the half shaft support in the axle tube which I had to pull out with a slide hammer and throw away.

I know what you mean, when I used to have cars, first they would click then I would tell myself that I better start thinking about changing that..
 
No idea as there are no marks on them are OEM ones marked in any way?
 
Frank, have you had a bump on the head. Last week you were advocating only buying genuine Toyota diesel and now you're saying put worn CVs back in on a full axle rebuild? And, we don't even know if they are genuine ones or not.

I hve had clicking ones with much less wear in them than that. I would put them together clock one end in the vice and see how much free rotation there is in them on the bench. The danger is that if there is a lot of free play then on tricky sections of road or say doing a hill start the working parts can get a bit of a run up and pop. Like I said, I'd sooner put a new set of HDKs in there than put those back.

Frank, your words - "Why take the chance?" Do it once, do it right.

Warren, I have just put a set of OEMs in and if it hadn't said Toyota on the box, I'd have thought I'd been swindled. Not a single mark anywhere on them.
 
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