Uj's, Cv's or wind up

Hi Guys ...

can any tell me what this noise is please ....

https://fbcdn-vthumb-a.akamaihd.net..._=1421767319_44a8234061087db7aa6067b142ef4655

(hopefully that link works) ...
am thinking either Uj's, CV's or wind up. .... the wind up may come from having a few tight turns to get in and out of our yard at slow speed. ..

was all ok till a couple of mins ago when I pulled into our yard and I felt the rear wheels scuffing on the ground then the steering went tight, then that bang you hear in the vid.

any advise is grateful as I use my truck daily (don't have any other vehicles to use)

The link doesn't work for me Carl.

Don't like the idea of a bang, and your description would fit with the centre diff being locked... wind-up and bang, something having let go. Could be a rear driveshaft. Nothing should scuff or go bang if the lockers are disengaged, no matter how tight the turns

Questions:

Does the truck still drive?
Is the centre diff lock engaged?
Does it still drive with the CD lock disengaged?

Answers on a postcard please, hope it's not too serious.

drives fine. ...
centre diff is (according to the dash lights) unlocked. .. Could it have got stuck from the last time I used it ??

I've just replaced the rear prop after one of the uj's failed ...

I don't have a separate CD switch. .. it's a standard uk setup ( have to engage low box to get the centre to lock)

will upload the vid else where ...

Red Oktober said:

drives fine. ...
centre diff is (according to the dash lights) unlocked. .. Could it have got stuck from the last time I used it ??

I've just replaced the rear prop after one of the uj's failed ...

I don't have a separate CD switch. .. it's a standard uk setup ( have to engage low box to get the centre to lock)

will upload the vid else where ...

Click to expand...

Not knowing what a standard UK set up is, forgive me for asking silly questions

Surely, you can usually activate the CDL in high range? I'm sure you have front and rear lockers if it's UK, they can only be activated after the CDL is engaged.

Another question:

Were you in High or low when it happened?

I would check whether the CDL is engaged, the only way I would attempt that is to disconnect the wires from the transfer box. If that doesn't prove anything, jack one side up and turn a wheel, if the other wheel on that side rotates, it must be locked.

I'm going to shut up now because Chris will come on here and give me a right telling off for confusing you...

Watching this one Carl...

re-uploaded vid .... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MBddrb5LDI0&list=UUs05Jyki73sDOCy_JTtAL0g
hope this one works. ..

errrr ... I have lockers in both axles ... have to shift into low box to get the centre to lock .. (if that makes any sense)

was in high (for normal driving)

which wires off the T-box ??

Hi Carl,
I think the same as Clive. CDL locked.
Clive, in the later 80 series, the CDL locks when low gear is engaged.
I think you can check this when you jack up the truck so one wheel comes off the ground. Don't start the engine and put gear in neutral and high. Try to rotate the wheel. If the CDL engaged, this is impossible, if it rotates it is not engaged.
please feedback from the experts to make sure this is the right way.
regards,
wout

All that sounds good Firewout, but I'm surprised the later models didn't have a CDL dash switch, but Carl is a petrol head as well, so I'm a bit out of my depth.

I think CDL must be engaged, that means that it will still drive ok even with a broken shaft.

Once Carl can be sure the CDL is not engaged, then he/we will have a lot more info to go on.

Going on the year of your LC it could have a VC in the CD. The VC has been known to seize, effectively locking the CD and causing windup/tyre scrub etc. If you jack up one wheel, as per above post, you should be able to turn it but there will be some resistance, that is the VC. I'd be inclined to get all 4 wheels off the ground and check each of the DL's in turn. If all 3 mechanical DL's are working OK and you are still getting windup, it has to be a VC problem IMO.

just been out and got the front wheels up in the air ....

passenger side wheel turns freely (no resistance at all .... it is also the one making the clunking noises, and making the steering stop at quarter turn.

drivers wheel has a fair bit of resistance ... ... neither wheel attempts to rotate the other (diff/drive shaft issue)

will have a go at the rear wheels in a mo

I have some video of the clunking noise when spinning the passenger front wheel that I will post once it's done

Right ....
Jacked rear wheels up ... no resistance in either wheel. .... both wheels rotates the other freely ..

one wheel down ... can feel it lock against the diff/propshaft .. as it should do ... no problems there then.

leaving the Auto box in P should prevent the truck rolling back/forward when either end is lifted off the ground .... correct?? ... well it did not prevent from this when I lifted the rear wheels.
Oh ... the front diff locked straight away when it was engaged (dash light didn't flash like the rear one does on the tarmac)

So ... if I am thinking on the right lines I'm looking at either the front passenger drive shaft ..... or front passenger CV joint has failed. .. ??

is there any way I can temporarily lock the Tbox so I can still use it as I have hospital/docs appointments to get to??

Video of noise while turning the front passenger wheel by hand

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brWJacW2xjI&feature=youtu.be

Temporary lock of T-box:
The first I can think of is to put the transfer in low gear. The CDL will lock. Next unplug the motor actuator of the CDL. Should stay locked when you shift back to high gear.
Good luck!

Firewout said:

The first I can think of is to put the transfer in low gear. The CDL will lock. Next unplug the motor actuator of the CDL. Should stay locked when you shift back to high gear.
Good luck!

Click to expand...

where on the Tbox is the plug. ??
will be pulling the front prop out as well (if I can undo the bolts)

Sounds like something has broken there!

Not sure i'd want to drive it tbh. Sure if you had to you could remove the drive flanges on the front hubs to stop the shaft turning? Remove the hazard light switch and plug into cdl switch wiring, lock cdl and drive it?? Poss with front prop off too. Happy to stand corrected though.

If I see correctly in the FSM, the plug will be at the left side of the transfer, next to the breather hose. FSM covers the HF2A transfer box.
I'm 200kms away from my own truck, so can't check for real.

Thanks guys ... much appreciated.

job for first thing now cos it's dark.

I would say, from the video and your description, the CV joint on the passenger side has broken. If it was just the half shaft I can't see how the steering lock would be affected. Personally I wouldn't drive it like this, even with the front prop removed as the CV will still be turning in the hub and if it lets go completely it could trash the hub/axle casing. JMO

That's why I thought if you had no choice but to drive it, could you remove the drive flanges on the hubs, stop the cv s turning?

I guess removing the front prop and the flanges would stop the CV turning but you could still have the steering lock problem.

I'm with TP. Sounds just like mine when the CV disintegrated. That's not wind up, it's clonkity clonk.

I actually carry a pair of drive flanges with the splines machined out so that I can do a quick field fix if necessary. Prop off, swap flanges, no need to go in the hub. Yep, I'd get the wheels in the air I think