Chassis treatment help please.

I have decided to replace the chassis on my 1976 fj45 pick up and bought a solid one from Giles this week. I read on the forum a while a ago that there was a good America product that would protect my new investment but I cant find the thread. Can anybody help or suggest another option as You get a different spin on things depending on what people have to sell.
Thanks.
DIC

Why not get it galvanised, reasonably cheap and will ensure it will last forever.

Mick

Por 15

DIC said:

I have decided to replace the chassis on my 1976 fj45 pick up and bought a solid one from Giles this week. I read on the forum a while a ago that there was a good America product that would protect my new investment but I cant find the thread. Can anybody help or suggest another option as You get a different spin on things depending on what people have to sell.
Thanks.
DIC

Click to expand...

They are most likely talking about POR-15 rust converter and metal treatment.
I media blasted my frame and had it powder coated. See "new member" post here to see the results.
Here is a link to POR-15 information.
http://www.por15.com/

Hi there

Galv is ok for new vehicles but looks bad on classics, jlpurcell used powder coat on the frame and some cool stuff on the tub,, he will know more than me as i would of wanted to do all in the cool stuff he used on the tub

Giles

I used por15 products when I painted my chassis, good stuff and you can thin it down and spray it on, if I was doing it again that's what I'd do tbh

If got it galvanised surely you could still paint it?

No question about it if i had a stripped chassis i would have it galvanized first and foremost then i would paint it with good old fashioned oil based paint , primer undercoat and gloss , and if i lived until i was 180 years old i might paint it again with POR or some other rust prevention treatment .

Gal'd, etched, painted.

I'll be getting mine Galv'd and powder coated...

In my experience Galvanized metal has been extremely hard to properly prep for paint and does not hold paint well. I live in the United States in what is called the "Rust Belt" This is an area of high humidity and lots of snow in the winter requiring salt to be used on the roads. I have found that keeping the underside and wheel wells of the vehicles clean, free of dirt build up is the best long term plan for avoiding rust as long as possible. The surface of smooth powder coat, I am hoping, will make keeping the surfaces clean easier. I will admit that my experience with galvanized metals is limited but I did spec my fire trucks back in the 90's with galvasteel a galvanized metal with the promise of stainless steel results without the cost of stainless. I can tell you that I am in the process of looking to place two of my fire trucks after 14 years or less of service. The mechanics are good the bodies are rusting off of them. Just my experience.

Just tell the Galvanising Company doing the chassis not to drop the chassis in the Quench solution after it comes out of the hot dip, this is what the stops the paint to sticking to the Gal, also have the chassis double dipped in Gal.