Beb replacement

my 80 has been in the family for 15 years, done 214k miles and still on the original beb's.
oil changed every 5k ....
today i changed them for ACL bearings (thanx Julian).
the original toyota ones are like new, no wear, perfect!
the only difference with the way mines been treated is:

its been run on genuine japanese, Hitachi Oil, 15/40.
we have to use this oil on the diggers or they void the warrenty.

That's good news John.

Mine were OK too, but I was very happy to replace them, simply the fear of the unknown when there are so many horror stories posted, for good reason.

I put the good condition of mine down to it being an 1HZ, non turbo. The extra power from the turbo must put extra strain on the shells, IMO.

Mine were well on their way, see my thread on 'MUD', pictures there as well. Interesting you use 15/40, spec is (was?) 5/30 IIRC? I use 10/40 and have done since ownership last 5 years...ish, makes you wonder if the heavier oil is more beneficial?

regards

Dave

Or is it that Hitachi oil, being Japanese, doesn't contain the (is it magnesium?) that has eventually eaten away at the shell metal?

Unsure, I have replaced two sets on two imports, first not as bad as mine and the second about to fail, neither had been out of Japan for no more than about two years?

regards

Dave

Gulp! Mine's been out for 11 years and 65k miles.

I'm wondering whether to just order standard size bearing shells (which of course involves assumption) or wait and check what I pull out for size.

I gotta do it soon. I'll sleep better.

Most just go for standard size. I've seen many engines been past repair due to the shells giving up

Quick question, do 24valve BEB ever need replacing?

Yes......sometimes.

StarCruiser said:

Gulp! Mine's been out for 11 years and 65k miles.

I'm wondering whether to just order standard size bearing shells (which of course involves assumption) or wait and check what I pull out for size.

I gotta do it soon. I'll sleep better.

Click to expand...

standard size acl bearings will fit, the crank was very well made, they never wear, you cant even regrind the crank shaft, ie, if you spin a shell, its a new crank, that or the con rod pops out to say hello!
thats why i did mine, its insurance agaist destroying your engine,
i kept putting off doing mine, as was running sweet, and i was to busy keeping the plant up together.

StarCruiser said:

Gulp! Mine's been out for 11 years and 65k miles.

I'm wondering whether to just order standard size bearing shells (which of course involves assumption) or wait and check what I pull out for size.

I gotta do it soon. I'll sleep better.

Click to expand...

must confess I used plastigauge when did mine but was waste of effort as well within spec.
Haven't heard too many needing anything other than std ACL unless of course the crank has had a regrind as some stage.

Anyhow, easy job, do it and sleep better...

Dave.

Yes, especially after Karl's earlier post, I'm gonna be staring at the ceiling until I do it.

So, what's so special about the ACLs? I've found that those from Toyota are the same as the 24 valve engines now, so is there any gain with either or are they equal and it's just down to price? When I contacted my local Toyota parts chappie, without looking for too long, he could only seem to find +0.025 and +0.050 available. I guess he just needs to look harder?

i've used ACL bearings for years in my drift cars, nissan rb25/26 engines running in excess of 500bhp,
never had a problem with them, they take an awful lot of punishment even under extreme high temperatures.

not saying the toyota( or whoever makes them for toyota) bearings are not good,
just my own personel preference, from experience of bebs.

StarCruiser said:

Yes, especially after Karl's earlier post, I'm gonna be staring at the ceiling until I do it.

So, what's so special about the ACLs? I've found that those from Toyota are the same as the 24 valve engines now, so is there any gain with either or are they equal and it's just down to price? When I contacted my local Toyota parts chappie, without looking for too long, he could only seem to find +0.025 and +0.050 available. I guess he just needs to look harder?

Click to expand...

Cant say ACL is any better than Toyo/Milner etc... it just what I've used in my 80s when I lived in OZ and never had any issues so I stick with them.
Save yourself a lot of tears and get one of these first- http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=0&item=5245

Dave

I replaced mine with OEM Toyota shells, the same sizes that came out. AFAIK ACL's are only available in one size. The difference between the smallest and biggest OEM bearing is only 0.0007" or 0.015mm so, unless you're blue printing an engine, does it really matter that much? Personally, I think it doesn't.

Thanks John, sounds good enough to me. I think there's one or two guys on here that stock them (Karl?) so I'll have to get some. Also the stretch bolts from Toyota. I have black gasket sealant in a toothpaste sized tube left over unopened from sealing up my Smart engine so I guess that will be suitable.

Dave, thanks for that tip. No brainier that one and ordered already but cheaper from Ebay.

Just got to plan my timing to do it in my pals garage when he doesn't need to get his rally car out. [emoji6]

Thanks TP, I had read about Toyota's rather analysts approach but that does appeal to me and I can see that getting that level of accuracy does mean exact gap is achieved from day 1.

yeah got mine off ebay, just trying to show you the tool.

Another hint is to drain the engine oil the night before.
Will help cut down eyes/mouth/ears full of black stuff dripping in there.

Need any help shout out but is straight forward job.

Dave.

sealey also do a sump/gearbox splitter.....good quality,
we use and abuse them on the diggers and dumpers alot,
cheaper than the laser tool version and just as good.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181076318969?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

STD ACL's from Milners for me. Interesting Towpack about the 24 valves may need changing? Perhaps there were some left over from the 12 valve blocks? I think the part numbers are the same now from Mr T?

regards

Dave