Can you lift the body off the chassis on a Colorado?

The chassis on my D4D colorado is pretty rusty and I'd like to do some rust treatment/prevention on it. However, having the truck on a set of ramps and crawling underneath isn't the most comfortable way of dealing with it. I was wondering how difficult it would be, or if it's even possible, to lift the whole body off and work around the chassis that way.

Simple answer yes. it's a ladder chassis so the only thing holding it on are the body mount bolts. 8 from memory. It's like doing a body lift only you keep lifting. But there are all sorts of other bits like electrical connections, steering etc. But yes you can. Not a five minute job though.

Click "forum" select 90 series and the very first post labelled sticky , the body lift instructions are in there . If i was going to do it i would be tempted to remove the engine first , not necessary perhaps but at least it would give a clear view of chassis rails before actually lifting so here's our Beau's guide to doing that https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2g_OxGnJkKU

Thanks very much for the reply. Less simple than I hoped but perhaps a job for a summer when there's time to take it down that far. In the meantime, what should I look for in a pair of ramps and axle stands that will safely support a colorado? Working on a vehicle this big is a bit new to me, I'm used to motorbikes so don't have kit to raise up a truck and work under it yet. Thanks.

My kit is probably newer than most on here and i have this http://www.roughtrax4x4.com/tools-equipment/axle-stands.html and this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-04983-Tonne-High-Bottle/dp/B00623EHYE though i didn't like the rubber bleed plug so ended up welding a nut on so i can bolt it shut . And these http://www.screwfix.com/p/2-tonne-c... Car and Van&gclid=CIC7nbmA98YCFefItAodkrEKuQ

I'm sure there's better stuff out there but the above gets me by .

Personally I think removing the body to do a full rush prevention isn't worth it, but I don't know how bad it's in. You can get to a lot of the chassis and underside from the bottom once you have the car high enough. What worked well for me was two scaffolding jacks, and then laying couple scaffolding boards at a angle and driving the car up. I could then go underneath with plenty of space and spray the complete underside.

Thanks, I'll pick up a pair of axle stands, I've got a trolley jack that should do, or a big bottle jack if not.

There's a fair amount of rust, I don't think it's just a case of spraying it, probably need a wire brush on a grinder then rust treat and paint. The rear bumper is worst but easiest to get at. It's going into the garage soon to have some fuel and brake lines replaced so I'll get under and have a really good look while it's on their ramp and try to take some pics to get further advice here. Thanks very much.

Have you considered having Rustbuster do it for you? Not that much cost in the grand scheme of things and they will probably do a far better job as they're doing it all the time using the right derusting chemicals. Search on here for rust buster. I was going to do mine myself but seeing the price it's not worth the agro IMHO.

I hadn't heard of Rustbuster before but just looked them up. They seem to basically do a thorough waxoil job which is probably great if you don't have much rust but likely to just seal the rust in if you do, which will probably just make it worse. I'd have thought you'd need to clean everything off and then treat with a rust stop/conversion chemical before doing anything else. Guess I'll have to have a look at the underside when it's on ramps and get a get a better idea of what needs doing.

I thought that's what Rustbuster did with their own treatments not Waxoyl. That's Rustbuster BTW NOT Rustbusters.

Link here
http://www.rust.co.uk/

Ah, thank you very much for that, that looks very interesting indeed. £500 to clean, rust treat, wax inject and underseal a Landcruiser does sound like a damn good deal.

have a look at dinitrol site first before parting with 500 squid.

give them a ring first. they are second to none for application and product advice. the products dinitrol make suit every application and are the best by a million miles. tried everything for agricultural uses and nothing lasts like dinitrol.

worth a ring/look

cheers

Hi, I have lifted more than 6 90 series and it is a great way to "service" your car. You need 4 x 200 litre drums, 4pc 6x2 timbers, 3.5m long, a lot of small wooden blocks and a bit of time. It takes about 8 hours to get it off, but then everything is there for you, I have had to do some chassis welding, and then oil seals, turbo work, Uj's and whatever else you can do

Steve, can you expand a little on your method, do you remove the engine first or keep it in situ?

What a shame Steve Allard hasn't given a bit more detail. I have a 1998 Colorado which needs a lot of serious chassis welding as well as quite a bit on the body as it's rotten near the mounting points. I am lucky that I have a two post lift at home but would like any advice on getting the body off as I might try to rebuild the chassis, try for a good second hand one or or even fabricate a new one, being retired has it's benefits in time availability. The MOT on the car was definitely nookie when I bought it last year with a new one and bills for a full service at the same time!!! thinking this should mean no major rust issues but the chassis is completely rotten with vital bits falling (or fallen) off and fist sized holes, collapsed mounting points, and fallen off cross members. There is no way this happened since the last MOT! And to think I used it to tow a 3 tonne load (London Taxi on trailer) from London to Hull soon after purchase. This revealed some serious 'clonking' which led to discovery of the issues. And yes I did try to get back to the seller but he's apparently emigrated, what a surprise.
Back to the point, has anyone got a decent guide to body removal? Many thanks in advance.

My '90' has been sitting in the yard, on SORN, for three years (where does the time go ?). I have drilled-out all the spot welds on the N/S Inner Sill and the whole assembly is now loose and ready to come out when the body is lifted:




The new panel is ready to be welded in:





After that . . . I have to do the same on the O/S (but I'll do one side at a time to maintain the integrity of the body shell).

While the body is in the air I'll replace the rear-most chassis cross-member and tidy-up the whole area.

This has to be done this year as my '100' just scraped through the MOT with the same issues - it won't pass another year so the '90' has to take over the towing duties so that the '100' can get the same treatment.

Who said retirement was relaxing ????

(Keeping the '100' on the road is the reason the '90' hasn't been worked on ).




Bob.

Hi Bob, nice to know I'm not the only one with similar issues. Did you just see what needed doing and do it or was there a guide to body removal you used? I'm of a mind to fabricate parts for the inner sills and chassis rather than use repair panels as I'm trying to keep costs down plus it can be fun. I'd be worried if retirement was relaxing! We've got that many projects on the go I'm never short of things to do, in fact since retirement over 12 years ago I've never been so busy, but doing things I want to do not have to do. Be nice to have more people near me with shared interests though.

Steve,

I have been under this car a lot since I bought it in 2008. Also, there have been a lot of posts on this and other sites which have given me a good idea of what is involved in removing the body. I didn't have an actual guide - just 60 or so years of experience working on cars (and bikes, trailers, tractors, boats . . . ).

Its not difficult in concept but the reality of removing heavily corroded bolts is what makes it challenging. I am seriously looking at those 'Induction Heater' systems that heat the bolts or nuts without risking setting fire to the rest of the truck.

I am hoping to get away with removing all body mounts, disconnecting the steering and brake lines and then lifting it from the back. Removing the engine radiator and air-con Rad, plus separating all the wiring from the front is something I'm hoping to avoid.

Then, decision time - do I TIG or MIG weld the panels in ? MIG would be easier but TIG probably more thorough with better heat penetration.

I also retired 12 years ago and have more projects than I can reasonably handle (including 4 Classic British Motorcycle restorations) .

Bob.

Many thanks for your advice and encouragement Bob. I have done body off on a Range Rover and a Triumph Spitfire many years ago but nothing on a 'modern' motor. I'm going to look at a possible donor vehicle today which allegedly has a good chassis so I may be able to get two bites of the cherry so to speak. Donor first as it doesn't matter too much then the one for repair, with the benefit of experience.
Those induction heaters look great but I wonder if they're worth the money, it seems a lot for something that may only get rare use. I don't know how big a chunk they will heat. I used Oxy Acetylene to free off the wheel nuts on our ancient JCB a few weeks back (probably not been removed for 45+ years) after they broke the shear pin in a 2M long torque wrench (which goes up to 3500ft/lb) . A 1" windy wouldn't shift them and we put a couple of metres of scaffold pole on the end so I guess we were asking for trouble, got them gently glowing and the 1"windy got them off fine, then last weekend daughters front wheel bearing was stuck in the hub carrier and we bent the plates in the press trying to get it out, but again liberal use of Oxy Acetylene cured the problem. I expect the induction would have done the wheel nuts but would it have done the hub carrier?
Oh I wish I had a decent TIG set, never been able to justify the cost as we have a good quality MIG and obviously gas and stick too. From what I've seen and understand on mild steel a good MIG should be able to keep up with a TIG but for anything else TIG is the way to go.

I don't have Oxy, but I do use Butane, Propane and (best of all for small quick jobs) a MAP torch. One has to be careful though.

A year or so ago I bought an R-Tech 170A AC/DC TIG welder, having used a Migmate 150 MIG for over 20 years (I have an old stick welder as well). I haven't had much experience of TIG Welding yet but for thin sheet jobs (such as repairing a split Motorcycle tank or a mudguard) its just the job. I wish I'd bought the 200A model though, it is far easier to set-up and adjust. It needs a 16A supply (which I have in the workshop) which limits its portability and was the reason I went for the 170 as it runs from a 13A socket.

Like everything else though, once you start you realise there is a whole new world out there - different torch types & dimensions, different tungsten types & sizes, 'Gas Lenses' for the difficult access jobs (in different sizes) . . . Where do you stop. I now have a bucketful of parts and have to sit down with the manual before starting a job .

I live on a farm and have access to a JCB (an 8052 5-ton 'mini'). They used to have a very old 3CX that was held together by gravity that I did a lot of work with. They also have a Merlo Telehandler that is very useful. One day I'll get my Zetor 6718 tractor back up and running, its Gray's Front Loader would be very useful at the moment.

Add to that my two lathes, milling machine, 30-ton press, air compressor & tools, drill press . . . I'm always busy .

Keep posting pictures as you work on the cars - we like pictures .

Bob.