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1KZ-TE Spill valve

flipper687el

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Jul 31, 2015
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Guys don't know if anybody can help here.

After completing a head change 3 thousand miles ago with everything running sweet.

All of a sudden truck just would not start the following day after a longish run of 250 miles.

Spent time checking diesel was getting to the pump all OK, just no go what so ever cranking over with no smoke or any obvious problems.


I started reading the manual I bought from the Milner 4x4 and browsing forums to try to see if anybody has had these symptoms before.


Started looking at the spill valve and sensor on the fuel pump.


I measured the resistance of the spill valve and read an open circuit across the valve connector.

I also checked the voltage at the same connector but ECU side, to check that voltage was present.

What I found was on one side I had 12 volts in reference to negative and about 10.2 volts on the other contact with the ignition on.

So I have surmised that the potential across the spill valve is 2 volts approx

Reading the manual I have, suggests that a resistance reading of 1.4 to 2ohms should be found across the spill valve at 20 degrees C.

This would then equate to a current flow of approximately 1 amp through the valve which looking a the cable cross sectional area would appear to be a reasonable result.

So I have assumed the spill valve is playing up internally and going open circuit.

I spoke with Chris at Parkinsons, which are a parts supplier and diesel specialist and they managed to source a replacement DENSO spill valve which I picked up to day.

Before leaving to collect the valve I went to grab my multi meter from the truck and chanced my arm that it would start.

Low and behold it struck up no problem so I quickly stopped it opened the connector and measured the resistance across the valve 1.8 ohms.


Did not think to measure the voltage across the valve before stopping the engine to the see what was happening dooh.

Anyway convinced that the valve is the issue I went and picked up the new valve thinking I would start the truck when home and check to see what voltage was being developed across the valve.

But when I got home, again the truck would not start and the current spill valve read open circuit again.

The new one reads 1.6 ohms constant. However after catching a snippet of info on a forum where someone mentioned tuning tweaking performance by playing with the spill valve.

I am reluctant to fit the new valve as obviously with no dust cap fitted I can see a adjustment shaft and lock nut.

I was concerned that the new valve may not be factory set correctly so spoke with Chris who spoke with there contact specialist.

Chris said that the new valve is not set at factory and is normally adjusted to the pump which would require removal of the pump and sending to there contact and a 270.00 bill to fit and set.

I really don't want to have to remove the pump to do this if anybody knows if it is a simple process to set up the replacement spill valve when fitted on the engine.


My thoughts are maybe to remove the current valve take of the dust cover exposing the adjustment shaft.

Measure the adjustment shaft, exposed threads etc and check the current setting of the new valve and adjust where necessary.


Please anybody who knows more about these valves or has any ideas advice on setting these valves up can they speak up and edumacate a keen amateur!!!!!


Many thanks in advance

Dan.
 
Beau removed the valve without removing the pump , had to cut a , 32mm i think , spanner to make it shorter so he could get in there . Here's his vid with the pump out which should help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xzws_H9z5Zg

Oh and i've altered the fueling from its lowest setting up to about 3 full turns and anything in between and performance is the only difference , it will drive wherever the adjust screw is .
 
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I wouldn't be to hasty in adjusting the spill control yet... They generally are set at some kind of OEM setting (leaner side). If it wasn't adjusted properly then you'll be suffering performance problems, not starting. The spill controls themselves don't really fail. From my experience, what fails and causes problems is when the internal filters, including the one under the spill control valve gets blocked and causes the valve not to operate as it should. The spill control valve itself can actually be opened (carefully) and you can clean the internals of it. I did this after having the exact problem you're having and it solved the problem!

However, there's one symptom that you're not having that a lot of people have with a failed solenoid. It's having the engine cut off on them whilst driving. With you, it's just a start up problem correct? This indicates maybe it's fuel related? Have you checked the fuel delivery system in the cruiser? Sometimes a small air leak in the system allows fuel to leak back and then the engine has to crank a lot to suck back up fresh fuel from the tank.

Simple things to check. Crank the engine with a injector cracked slightly open. See if there's fuel or not.

Now, feel free to tweak the pump and see if you get any good results. Crack open the lock nut on top. From memory turning clockwise increases fuel and anti leans it out. (Shayne, correct me if I'm wrong, it's been a while) Start off with small increments and test. 1/4 turn ect. Turn it too much and the engine will rev itself to near death and it won't shut off unless you block off the intake. (It's happened to me)
 
Farmerboy had an starting problem even after eliminating all the usual suspects , it turned out to be a dry connection in the fuse/relay box .

Beau's right clockwise lifts the screw out like a flood gate allowing more fuel in so counterclockwise screws it in and it is fool proof because fully closed so it can't be turned no more still lets fuel in .
You will find the lowest setting limits power so turn it up a touch and go for a spin , keep doing it until your happy with the results . I am doing this right now and so far i've gone from fully closed to a half turn open (180 degrees) , it needs more but i tend to do it when a short run which allows a 70mph test presents itself .
 
Listen to it roar

I wouldn't be to hasty in adjusting the spill control yet... They generally are set at some kind of OEM setting (leaner side). If it wasn't adjusted properly then you'll be suffering performance problems, not starting. The spill controls themselves don't really fail. From my experience, what fails and causes problems is when the internal filters, including the one under the spill control valve gets blocked and causes the valve not to operate as it should. The spill control valve itself can actually be opened (carefully) and you can clean the internals of it. I did this after having the exact problem you're having and it solved the problem!

However, there's one symptom that you're not having that a lot of people have with a failed solenoid. It's having the engine cut off on them whilst driving. With you, it's just a start up problem correct? This indicates maybe it's fuel related? Have you checked the fuel delivery system in the cruiser? Sometimes a small air leak in the system allows fuel to leak back and then the engine has to crank a lot to suck back up fresh fuel from the tank.

Simple things to check. Crank the engine with a injector cracked slightly open. See if there's fuel or not.

Now, feel free to tweak the pump and see if you get any good results. Crack open the lock nut on top. From memory turning clockwise increases fuel and anti leans it out. (Shayne, correct me if I'm wrong, it's been a while) Start off with small increments and test. 1/4 turn ect. Turn it too much and the engine will rev itself to near death and it won't shut off unless you block off the intake. (It's happened to me)



Hi Beau yes your right I forgot to mention that when the truck started playing up, it did cut out on me about 400 yards of the drive and had to be towed back.

Anyway fitted the new spill valve last night and the beast started on first crank after a couple of seconds priming.


The truck has been left and started repeatedly over night and first thing this morning with absolutely no problems.

Still need to tweak the new valve settings a little as over fuelling a bit, black smoke when revved hard.

Basically on the old valve I marked up the shaft and a reference point on the cap and then backed off the valve until I hit the stop, counting the turns, half turns etc.

I then replicated this on the new valve as a starting point and fitted.


I data logged the resistance of the coil on the old valve now removed over night to see how it was behaving.

It was all over the place one second open circuit then 3K6, then 0.6 OHMS something real wrong with it. When I have time I will take it apart to see.


Question as the manual I have stated the coil resistance as 1.4 to 2.0 ohms at 20 degrees C on these valves.

I wonder if there is some kind of Bi-metallic switch on these valves that is breaking down?


Anyway fella's greatly appreciate the shared knowledge and advice given.


I will take some photo's of the DENSO box and part number of the new spill valve.

Plus the spanner and torque bar I made to be able to remove and fit the valve, this might help others.


Best regards Dan.:lol::lol:
 
Glad you got it solved! :clap:

Pictures are always welcomed for future reference!
 
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Hi Beau yes your right I forgot to mention that when the truck started playing up, it did cut out on me about 400 yards of the drive and had to be towed back.

Anyway fitted the new spill valve last night and the beast started on first crank after a couple of seconds priming.


The truck has been left and started repeatedly over night and first thing this morning with absolutely no problems.

Still need to tweak the new valve settings a little as over fuelling a bit, black smoke when revved hard.

Basically on the old valve I marked up the shaft and a reference point on the cap and then backed off the valve until I hit the stop, counting the turns, half turns etc.

I then replicated this on the new valve as a starting point and fitted.


I data logged the resistance of the coil on the old valve now removed over night to see how it was behaving.

It was all over the place one second open circuit then 3K6, then 0.6 OHMS something real wrong with it. When I have time I will take it apart to see.


Question as the manual I have stated the coil resistance as 1.4 to 2.0 ohms at 20 degrees C on these valves.

I wonder if there is some kind of Bi-metallic switch on these valves that is breaking down?


Anyway fella's greatly appreciate the shared knowledge and advice given.


I will take some photo's of the DENSO box and part number of the new spill valve.

Plus the spanner and torque bar I made to be able to remove and fit the valve, this might help others.


Best regards Dan.:lol::lol:


Hi mate, I'm needing some details on part numbers on the spill control valve and would love some pics on how much of a pain this job is going to be
 
Not sure if you mean out of the pump, or the valve itself? If out, you use a 32mm short spanner and simply unscrew it from the pump body.

To disassemble, there are two tabs of the end of the valve that you need to bend back outward and that piece will pop out. The rest of the solenoid isn't really made to come apart.
 
Hi All,

I'm having a wee bit of trouble with my spill control valve...I think.

I've just recently changed the batteries on my 1kzte after they went completely dead after shipping my KZJ78 home to Scotland from NZ. I have the dual battery winter spec set up.

The engine bay is clicking like mad after I turn the ignition on. I think it's coming from the fuel pump. I've got a video but can't seem to upload it. It's MP4 but the thread doesn't like it :D

The engine starts no bother and then dies soon after.

I measured the resistance over the SCV valve connector and it's within spec at 1.9 ohms. I'm also minded to think that the pump and all valves should be in tip top shape as I had the pump overhauled not more than a year ago by JE Paisley of Oamaru NZ (very reputable outfit).

Should I be able to measure a voltage across the connector that runs from the SCV connector back to the ECU? It's reading 0V at the moment. (I had the ignition set to OFF when I measured this 0V, however, it should have been showing something as the turbo pressure sensor showed 0.4V in the OFF position versus 4.5-5.5V in the ON position).

My current line of thinking is that the SCV solenoid is moving rapidly between the closed and open position. I understand that the solenoid closes to kill the engine. That leads me to think that the SCV solenoid is a Normally Open Solenoid and is kept open by having power to the solenoid (so that it fails closed, not open).


Can anyone shed some light or poke holes in my theory? Thanks in advance.

Interestingly, I have had an intermittent stuttering issue since owning the vehicle that sounds a bit like one you had @Beau related to the turbo pressure exceeding the fuel cut off limit and I'm half hoping it's related to this and I can finally sort it out. If not, hopefully it's the waste gate getting stuck closed but it'd be good to know.

By the way, @Shayne and @Beau I have spent a lot of time reading your posts about turning up the fuel, 3" exhausts, the intercooler mod...the full bhuna! I've got an EGT and boost pressure sensor to install, and plans to get on a dyno/rolling road. Then, I plan to install a 3" turbo and record the results.
 
Beau is the pump expert but "clicking" has me thinking of injectors or poor timing .

I think Beau explained once that the adjustment under the dust cap advances timing and somewhere above i read your still getting black smoke when you rev hard which suggests to me you need to turn it down some .

I have in the past turned my fuel down as far as it would go just to to see what happened , result it still ran fine but there was no power at all further up the rev range , felt a little like the clutch was slipping all revs and noise but the speedo wouldn't move beyond about 65mph .

I suppose air i the fuel system is a possible cause if its trying to pump missing fuel ? , mentioned only because this is a common grievance maddening because it defies all investigation usually , typically it sucks air from corroded metal pipes coming off the fuel tank or the fuel filter housing/bleeder fails to seal . A bottle of fuel direct to the pump wil give you a yay or nay on this one quite easily .
 
Hi Shayne, I did a bit more diagnosing this morning and here's what happened...

Started up the truck, let it run until it died (around 30 seconds), went to the engine bay to listen for clicking. Sure enough, it was clicking like mad.

I proceeded to pull plugs from the fuel pump until the clicking stopped.

It stopped immediately when I pulled the plug connecting the timing control valve.

I haven't any knowledge about the TCV, however, I shall do some reading and see what I find.

Worryingly, I connected the diagnostic terminals to see if there was a fault code and my diagnostic isn't working.

Perhaps the problem is ECU related, in which case I'll swap out the ECU for my spare one. The process of elimination continues.....
 
Is yours a 1kz-te ? if so it might be worth giving the intake sensors a clean first as they tell the ecu what orders to pass on .
 
Yes, it is a 1kz-te.

By intake sensors, are you referring to the MAP, air intake temp sensor, turbo pressure sensor, TPS? Any others?
 
Yeah those are the only two i know , i never looked for or messed with the cut off valve but i suppose if it were dirty it could incorrectly interpret a problem it is after all a failsafe ?
 
Yes that's true, it could be a bit cruddy. Wouldn't be surprised.

Discovered a wee bit of leak from a capacitor on the ECU circuit board so I'll see if switching to the other ECU makes a difference. I would love to know if this capacitor is related at all to the Timing Control Valve but can't find that info online.

In the meantime I'll have this one repaired. I have read about an ECU doctor.
 
Right lads, popped the other ECU in and let it idle for 5 minutes before killing it. Looks like its sorted but I'll find out more in the next few days/weeks.
 

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Farmerboy had an starting problem even after eliminating all the usual suspects , it turned out to be a dry connection in the fuse/relay box .
goodoldby mate but yeah well remembered.A kiwi also had the same problem &theplace that repaired his said it was a fairly regular occurrence.
But great thread everyone , really useful.
 
@goodoldboy I know the kiwi place well - anything electronic in Nelson, South Island. the capacitors give up every 10 years on average.

Would recommend everyone to take a look at their ECU periodically and see if anything is leaking. A simple, 1 hour job for KZJ7x and KZJ9x prados where the ECU is located above the glovebox. Can't speak for other models.
 
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