Early "cheap" 100 series a big risk?

Just a quick one...
I have had a lovely 24v diesel 80 series that I miss, a 24v diesel powered 130 defender, that I had to sell because of lack of funds and now a 110 defender with a 12v diesel in it.
As you can see, a reoccurring theme!

The 110 may also have to go to free up funds (I am building a house and all the toys are slowly dwindling!)

I have been thinking of getting a bottom of the market 100 series for towing duties (I have a big triaxle trailer that can be nearly 3.5T), farm duties (we have a potentially muddy slippery small holding), lugging stuff about duties.

Am I buying into a potential money pit with something like this, or could this represent good value for money with a light tidy up?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-TOYO...ON-OVERLAND-/151756591812?hash=item235565d2c4

I have had to do a nearly a full rebuild on the 12v on the 110 due to BEBs and really cannot afford another £3k+ bill with the next purchase!

Is there a idiots guide to buying a 100 series?

Thanks in advance

Hi Stan, its a four speed auto ( 3 speed + overdrive) but that aside its the one to have, right price and no AHC to worry about on the GX. Mileage isn't intergalactic so if the autobox is sweet and the basics work in my opinion it beats a £4K 80 hands down.

Thanks for quick reply - i have just spotted that it is badged as a VX, but comes up as a GX on a basic online car check too!

Is the uppy downy suspension button on the centre console by the shifter? I also see it has height control showing with the sunlight on the dials too!

I presume a set of springs and shocks and some kind of ecu work around disables the AHC?

another potentially daft question, what in the way of difflocks have these 100s got?

Stanstorey said:

Thanks for quick reply - i have just spotted that it is badged as a VX, but comes up as a GX on a basic online car check too!

Is the uppy downy suspension button on the centre console by the shifter? I also see it has height control showing with the sunlight on the dials too!

I presume a set of springs and shocks and some kind of ecu work around disables the AHC?

another potentially daft question, what in the way of difflocks have these 100s got?

Click to expand...

To be fair I didn't really look at the pics, it looks pretty much like a VX to me with it having leather and it appears, AHC. I have a 100 series without the AHC on it and it was the dealbreaker for me, I'd made up my mind within 10 secs of looking underneath. Although without AHC you have a slight lack of versatility, you have a far more reliable suspension system which gives a far more comfortable ride.
If this was a GX I would say go for it, as a VX steer clear unless you like big bills if it goes wrong.
Just my rambling opinion while I'm on holiday.

Stanstorey said:

Thanks for quick reply - i have just spotted that it is badged as a VX, but comes up as a GX on a basic online car check too!

Is the uppy downy suspension button on the centre console by the shifter? I also see it has height control showing with the sunlight on the dials too!

I presume a set of springs and shocks and some kind of ecu work around disables the AHC?

another potentially daft question, what in the way of difflocks have these 100s got?

Click to expand...

The 100 has centre and rear diff lock on UK spec 100's but you would be lucky to find a rear one that worked.

Yes With a set of rear springs,front torsion bars and 4 shocks and removal of all the AHC gubbins that should do it. Is it really worth the effort on a 17 year old truck?? get a manual GX for what you need.

Questions to ask/check:
Do the diff.locks work? (The rear one will disintegrate over the years if you drive on salted roads)
Was the Torque Converter changed ever? (The first 3 production years had a bad TC-bearing)

Comments:
AHC or not doesn't matter. To get new conventional springs and shocks will cost the same whether you have a broken ahc or a worn out conventional suspension from before. Only difference is that the torsion bars normally keep a long time and would not have to be changed if conventional. Ahc "shocks" last longer than conventional.
With your intentional use, it sounds like you would be OK with conv susp.
On a diesel 100, the Auto is much much easier to handle than a manual. I didn't think the difference would be so big, until I had both a manual and an auto for a year. (Didn't actually want an auto) Particularly for towing, the auto is much better.
(The 5-sp auto on the newer ones does shift smoother tho')

thank you both for your replies, perfect bit of info to help me with my search/decision making
We're ideally looking for an Auto, so extra auto info is very useful.

The simplicity of the 80 is still very attractive...

And I still have a complete spare 12V engine, auto and transfer box sat on my workshop floor, so if anyone comes across something worth putting it in please let me know!

I brought nearly the exact same cruiser about 1 year ago, same colour spec and condition and paid very much the same price too.

I use it for heavy towing mostly and have not been disappointed with it in any way, the AHC has been fine and it has an auto box too which works for towing, all the major mechanical lumps have been fine.

However I am quite fussy and wanted to tidy it up and make it presentable, give it a full service plus sort out any odd mechanical bits and pieces to make it 100% dependable.

Even though I have done all the work myself the cost of everything spent has been considerable these cars are fairly complex and have a lot of components/features and to get everything sorted and looking good has been costly.

To give you an idea I spent around £750 just on absolute basics parts, 4 tyres, 2 batteries, and a filter service kit with oils.

Additionally there are not that many being broken for parts and when used parts are found they come at a premium price.

I now have a well sorted car that is presentable and dependable, I still have a to do list but it is getting smaller, if I were to do it all again a would spend more money on a better car to start with especially if you take into account your time or if you have to pay for work that needs doing.

The up side for me is is after spending a year doing a rolling restoration I now understand just about everything on my car and how it works plus I have enjoyed working on it.

Great reply t1pper - time is no longer on my side and I have god knows how many other old vehicles that could all do with some time on them, so the 100 would have to stay 'as is' so long as it is mechanically sound for the foreseeable.

i hate not having cars at their best, but sometimes (actually all the time it would seem) life gets in the way!

I shall keep my eyes out for a suitable 80/100 but don't hold out much hope with my budget...