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Boost Gauge?

Umar

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Nov 9, 2014
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uk
My latest mod, might be a bit boy racer for some but I'd rather have a gauge then a clock managed to get a proper oem fit it just needs to be plumbed into the engine side any suggestions?

i was just thinking of tapping into the plastic pipe off the turbo that goes onto the inlet pipe.

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I think they just get teed into the small bore piping that runs round fed from the induction piping between turbo and inlet manifold.

Looks smart Umar. [emoji4]
 
Looks good that umar,have you got a link buddy please
 
Looks great Umar i wanted to do the same but my multi gauge is bigger than the clock :think: looking at yours though i might revisit the idea . I hate taking trim off because it seems i always break at least one moulded clip whilst doing it so i would be grateful for any tips .

And yeah just T into the vacuum pipe going from turbo housing to actuator . Its a bit tight down there so iirc i removed the manifold heat shield to get my mitts in which requires the removal of the intake pipe and other obvious bits .
 
In theory you could take a reading off anywhere from the intake side. However I think the most accurate would be the boost actuator vacuum line, the one shaynes referring to.
 
Sag, link???

Shayne, no tips on the trim removal as you know it's a gamble I usually just close my eyes and hope for the best :)

i will ill take some daytime pics and measure the gauge for anyone else that wants to fit one, fitting was simple ish the clock is screwed in to the fasia trim, once removed I took off the clear glass off the clock and basically gutted the clock body the clock mechanism is also held on with screws so once removed you are just left with an empty cube. I had to cut the back part for the gauge illumination and vacum pipe access. Most of these gauges are held with a c shaped clip. In simple terms the gauge is mounted into the clock body an then the clock body screws back into the fasia as normal.

will try to post some pics if I can access the rear to give you an idea
 
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...Just wondering why you used the original clock housing for the boost gauge? (sounds a faff-on) Surely the boost gauge came with its own body come fitting kit? Would just be a matter of altering the size of the clock aperture (if needed) in the original fascia and securing the gauge with it's glass surround and bracket at rear!!

I haven't looked but aren't most aftermarket gauges around 60mm in Dia' ?

May do this myself, Nice to get some pic's of where is the best place to install the 'T' piece in the intake vacuum line!

Nice job :thumbup:
 
T into this blue pipe

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I thought of tee-ing off the actuator pipe but the vaccum pipe is hard plastic could it melt with heat from the turbo?
 
I thought of tee-ing off the actuator pipe but the vaccum pipe is hard plastic could it melt with heat from the turbo?

Once it's not in direct contact I think it should be fine!
 
I replaced the actuator hose with a longer length while fitting my boost controller so my gauge T is closer to the inner wheel arch than the turbo .
 
I've had boost guages on landrover tdi and vw tdi's. You are wanting to measure pressure actually going into engine. On the landrover I drilled and tapped the intake manifold and screwed in a fitting.
On the vw, I got a fitting that went in the intake pipe, just before the manifold.
 
I've had boost guages on landrover tdi and vw tdi's. You are wanting to measure pressure actually going into engine. On the landrover I drilled and tapped the intake manifold and screwed in a fitting.
On the vw, I got a fitting that went in the intake pipe, just before the manifold.

Not too sure with that theory... Most people recommend getting the most accurate boost reading which is at the Waste gate actuator.
 
I suppose it depends why you want to measure the boost. At the waste gate actuator, it is not measuring pressure going into the engine, as the charged air has still to go through all the pipework and intercooler.
Have a look at tdi-forums, it's vw based, but the theory is all the same.
 
Interesting i hadn't give it much thought before accepting the turbo is a compressor until the wastegate opens so whatever pressure opens it is my max boost . But now I'm thinking the compressed air on my truck is shot into an intercooler which should in theory expand it again hence the pressure reading at the inlet side should be higher than it is at the actuator pipe :think:

Something to investigate me thinks .
 
On second thoughts its a sealed open system until the wastegate opens so it shouldn't matter where you take the reading it will always show the same like a tyre or any other sealed system .
 
I think, especially with a intercooler there may be a slight pressure drop from post turbo to intake. The amount, I have no idea, but I would think less than 1PSI. It is worth noting that the factory ECU takes it's reading on the intake side...
 
Surely you use a boost gauge to measure what the turbo is operating at.. hence you tee into the actuator pipe to see what the turbo is doing.
Fair enough to measure at the intake manifold but it isnt measuring what the turbo is boosting at then.

I can see why you want to measure on the manifold now after reading you're on a vw tdi. Cause they have piss poor intercooler connectors. After the problems on my audi a3 tdi I now wish I had a boost gauge on the actuator and on the manifold to see how much pressure is lost from their poor design work on their pipework! :thumbup:
 
There will always be a pressure loss between the turbo and the inlet manifold on any system. Without an intercooler it will be negligible but will be more noticeable with one. Not only is the turbo having to compress a larger volume of air but the air temp will also drop across the intercooler dropping pressure still further. That's why getting the best from an IC requires a boost increase at the turbo.JMO
 
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