Fuel leak from the ip.

I've got fuel dripping from the underside of the spring on the shaft in the picture which I believe is part of the ACSD, the thermo wax plunger sits just above and to the rear. I'm assuming there is a seal or O ring either on the shaft or behind it? Does removal of the thermo wax plunger remove this whole mechanism with it or is it separate? The FSM isn't that clear on this. Also does anyone have any part No.s for seals or O rings as I can't find anything on the EPC? The leak is currently a small one with a drip now and again but no doubt it'll get bigger if ignored. Thanks in advance.

Think Chaple gate ( mike) had the same issue and ended up replacing the ACSD. I'm sure he Wil be along to advise further.

The thermo wax is part of the acsd. Toyota dont sell the small o ring on the shaft. A injecter pump specialist who's worked on these pumps will know the size.

this is the shaft and o ring.



Heres the new one

I replaced the thermo wax with a blanking plate because the ip drew air and I had to prime before starting.
No issues anymore.
The whole mechanism comes off in one piece. Just 3 small bolts iirc. Be careful not to break the housing (how would I know )

Thanks guys. I have a blanking plate but I don't have the tools to adjust the pump timing when the ACSD is removed so I'll just go for fixing the leak. I have a box full of O rings in most sizes and there's also a diesel specialist locally in town (I got the blanking plate from them) so I'll get the thing off and see what's required. CG, do you have a part No. for the whole unit? I might price one up on Amayama and possibly replace it if it's not too pricey.


EDIT.....Just found the part No. for the ACSD assy and submitted an enquiry on Amayama although there's no confirmation that it's in stock. The last time I had an enquiry response like this was because the part was no longer in production but we shall see.

I ran around for a bit with a homemade blanking plate on and noticed no difference to how the engine ran. Other than the low idle which i didnt like.Tbh id just buy a new one. If I have to change it every 19 years/240000 miles (which ever comes first ). I dont think its too bad..

Just had a read on Ih8mud : http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1hdt-acsd-replacement.111970/
they mention 300$ for the unit.

Great info on this thread. Ive just bought a Denso fuel pump off a Daihatsu rocky 2.8td. Am aiming to attempt to fit it to a 1kzt (e).

Am needing to remove the ACSD assy as it will be on the engine side of the pump when installed on the 1kzt engine. So was wondering how to go about this.

Thanks for the info!

Just had a quote back from Amayama for £268 for the whole ACSD mechanism. That's with VAT added on but with ID and Parcelforce's charges on top it's going to be closer to £300 so I'll be going with new O rings for starters. The existing one works fine, it's just the leak that needs fixing.

ChapelGate sent me his old ACSD that he had replaced so I could rob the rubber bellows and the moving parts were quite seriously worn in places. Replacing the complete unit was certainly a wise move for CG. Thanks again for the parts CG. [emoji3]

I would imagine getting a suitably sized O ring from a good eBay seller would be perfectly good enough if measurements are taken of the old one. This could take any wear into account.

TP I would check with the local Denso place. The thermo wax was £86 + VAT last year. I can't see the linkage being £200.

Frank, I've just taken your advice and contacted a local diesel specialist who is familiar with Denso pumps. Not sure if they are an actual Denso 'dealer' but they're going to chase up the part No. and get back to me. I agree, the Toyota price does seem a lot of boney for a few bits of metal and a spring.

Tried 2 different Denso dealers/part stockists and they both say the ACSD part NO. is listed but is no longer manufactured or available, the O rings are. The availability from Toyota/Amayama is probably old shelf stock maybe? The timing shaft with the O ring barely turns at all, possibly 1/8 of a turn if that so I can't see how the shaft itself would wear to any degree but I shall find out when it's removed no doubt. Hope to pick up the O rings locally tomorrow for a weekend fix.

JV has some 2nd hand ones and he says they are all scrap. Perhaps water gets in an corrodes the ally. I doubt it's a hardened shaft so I could cut another slot in mine if it starts leaking. Then it would bear on a good part of the ally housing. Or I could even sleeve it. Quite good with the lathe now as I've been making loads of clock parts.

Picked up both O rings today for £1 from the local diesel place. According to the guy in the shop it's the preload applied to the shaft by the spring which can cause wear which you would expect to be in the softer alloy body. If there's enough thickness in the alloy body and the corrosion isn't too bad then drilling out and fitting a brass sleeve should be fairly easy if that's what is required.

Removed and stripped the unit and there is no evidence of wear or corrosion on either the shaft or the housing. Couldn't even detect any play on the shaft with it inserted without the O ring, in fact the O ring was the only part that looked worn but it was slight. The new ring is a tighter fit in the bore. Ufortunately, big hands and sausage fingers made it a BITCH to remove with the top left bolt being very awkward and a hidden one underneath. I fitted the blanking plate to get the thing running again and it did indeed feel no different once warmed up. I'm testing the unit for leaks but given the faff of replacing it and if I'm happy with cold starting and running I might just leave it off.

Glad you got it sorted. Very rarely that little pin on the spindle breaks off. When it does it ruins the pump. Perhaps leave the blanking plate on if you're happy.

Started easily this morning at around freezing point. The idle, without adjustment from the hand throttle, was indeed lower but not as low as I expected, helped I suspect with the vehicle facing downhill on the drive which always seems to make a difference compared to facing uphill. I was expecting more smoke from unburnt fuel due to the timing no longer being advanced by the unit but there was non. Hmmm.....? The pin that engages with the pump is quite substantial and showed no signs of wear. I've heard of this pin breaking off and causing pump damage but it's hard to see how it could. Maybe the pin was made thicker on later engines?

You wont have any problems running without the acsd, i just prefer how the engine runs on warm up with it, and thats just down to personal opinion.