100 series - BEB's

[nathanrobo]

Got the head off my 100, and noticed uneven colouring on the camshaft bearings - no scoring and they all feel smooth enough. But to be on the safe side, I'll order a new set from the stealer and get the camshaft checked.

Having read a bunch of threads about folk changing their BEB's I decided to fetch off the sump today (what a pain) and check the mains / BEB's. Haven't undone the caps yet, but is there anything to watch out for?

 

[karl webster]

You won't be able to check the mains mate as the block actually splits on the 4.2 engine.

all plain sailing once sumps off

 

[nathanrobo]

Good to know, thanks mate... btw are the BEB's supplied by Milner's any good? The product details show: A Taiho (JAPAN) brand bearing set. I know that there was a lot of talk a few years ago about J Spec oil for imports... Any idea if these bearings are European specification?

 

[StarCruiser]

Don't know NR but I would have thought Karl's your man for genuine ACLs though I didn't think the later engine had any problems with its BEBs and European oil. You could remove them, check with plastigauge and refit, you need the plastigauge anyway, mail order from a company down the road from me in Ford.

 

[karl webster]

Good to know, thanks mate... btw are the BEB's supplied by Milner's any good? The product details show: A Taiho (JAPAN) brand bearing set. I know that there was a lot of talk a few years ago about J Spec oil for imports... Any idea if these bearings are European specification?

up to you mate. I do the acls but they're more than double the milners ones.

 

[frank rabbets]

Just a tip when you do the BEB bolts up if the procedure is the same as the 80. Tighten the 2 bolts on each cap in turn then centre punch the bolt heads with the mark at the front of the engine. Then move on to the next cap. This way you won't get muddled up when you return to each cap to do the 90 degree final turn. It's easy to get muddled up. Also the mark will help to confirm that each bolt has in fact turned the required 90 degrees.

 

[nathanrobo]

up to you mate. I do the acls but they're more than double the milners ones.

Mate, I'll pm you ;-)

 

[StarCruiser]

up to you mate. I do the acls but they're more than double the milners ones.

I personally think that tells a tale in itself…

 

[nathanrobo]

Just a tip when you do the BEB bolts up if the procedure is the same as the 80. Tighten the 2 bolts on each cap in turn then centre punch the bolt heads with the mark at the front of the engine. Then move on to the next cap. This way you won't get muddled up when you return to each cap to do the 90 degree final turn. It's easy to get muddled up. Also the mark will help to confirm that each bolt has in fact turned the required 90 degrees.

Thanks Frank - I'll remember that! Don't think I'll get round to reassembly till next week.

 

[karl webster]

I personally think that tells a tale in itself…

sure does mate. I wouldn't fit them but I know a few who have .

 

[nathanrobo]

Karl,

It looks pretty straight forward to separate the bottom half of the block to inspect the mains. Am I right? Much seems silly to be so close and not do it.

Btw the BEB's don't have any damage as such, no scoring and the material isn't falling apart, but there are a couple of shiny patches in the same place on each shell. I've had the car for the last 58K since 70K miles and I've kept the oil changed more about every 4K. Probably would have gone on another 100K, but always better to over than under maintain!

 

[frank rabbets]

It's big job to split the block and get it all back together with no oil leaks. Also I should check the manual as you may have to remove the gearbox or engine to remove the crankshaft. It would be very difficult to take the main bearings out without removing the crankshaft. You can spin them round and inspect but there is no way to check the oil clearance of the main bearings without the engine block upside down.

 

[StarCruiser]

Plus for every one big end there are two mains taking load. If it were me (and it has been) I would leave well alone after what you've just said about the BEBs, which TBH just sound 'used' and not in any way damaged. When I rebuilt my Smart engine and split the block for the mains on that, the suction was so great it was difficult to part the crank from the bearing shell. I decided along with the fact that they were unmarked that they didn't need replacing.

 

[nathanrobo]

Plus for every one big end there are two mains taking load. If it were me (and it has been) I would leave well alone after what you've just said about the BEBs, which TBH just sound 'used' and not in any way damaged. When I rebuilt my Smart engine and split the block for the mains on that, the suction was so great it was difficult to part the crank from the bearing shell. I decided along with the fact that they were unmarked that they didn't need replacing.

I've decided to take the block out. I can then put in on my engine frame and do the lot. I'm not in a desperate rush to finish it - the 100 has been off the road for over 18 months, don't suppose another month is going to make much difference.

 

[uHu]

Put in new rubber on the 3 engine mounts. Will prevent vibrations and noise in the future.

 

[nathanrobo]

Not a bad idea. Engine fully uncoupled from box, torque converter unbolted, harness off, Rad out, box oil cooler pipes off, turbo and manifold off - I'll get the engine hoist and yank it out on the weekend. Any ideas what the block will weigh? I'll be taking the engine parts to Automotive Services in Northampton, not sure if the air suspension on the Merc will cope with an LC engine in the boot?

Might be need to think about using the trailer - any thoughts?

 

[uHu]

Iirc 380 kg

 

[nathanrobo]

Iirc 380 kg

That's a shed load!! I weighed the cyl head - 62KG. No wonder these trucks are so heavy.

 

[nathanrobo]

anyone familiar with the term "mark" relating to the BEB's?

please see below:

http://

 

[frank rabbets]

The mark is for the correct oil clearance. Each shell should be replaced with one having the same mark. They are stamped on the back. Genuine Toyo shells are graded like this but with other makes one size fits all so not quite as accurately made.