120 Jacking Points & Axle Stand Position

[Sam]

I can't find a thread just on this for the 120 so I thought this might be useful - not least because I need to know. Anyone know the safe jacking points on a 120? Probably all of you I'm sure

I need to get it on to axle stands so obviously I need more than one spot (can't jack where the stand would go).

Front end is what I need for now but it could be usefull to others (including future me) if anyone knows front and back... ? Thanks to anyone who has the time to educate.

(doing front pads and discs over the weekend - I'll make a start to finish post of it to help anyone else out in the future.... once you've all corrcted it and told me what I did wrong of course )

** EDIT **

I'm talking trolley jack points and axle stand positions - not bottle jack points (they are in the user manual).

 

[Animal Mother]

@Sam Where are the best trolley jack and axle stand points then mate. Full brake overhaul this week for me so this info would save some time. Ta.

 

[Sam]

Sorry for the late reply only just seen this - but I probably cant help anyway

In the end I decided the 120 is actually surprisingly poor for useful jacking points - especially as the underside is so biodegradable. The problem is the only easy and safe front jacking point is exactly where you want the axle stand to be.

I ended up using the principle of load spreading. Used a bit of solid 2x4 across the jacking point and along the chassis a short way. Used the LC bottle jack with a sound lump o' wood on the front jacking point listed in the manual and then set up the axle stand right next to it (also on the same sound lump o' wood).

I then replaced the bottle jack with a proper trolley jack pumped up to just short of taking the load. I would have just used the proper jack but couldn't find a way to get both the jack and the axle stand next to eachother anywhere that looked reasonably solid. I wouldn't have been happy jacking the LC up too far from the jacking point (read too many inches) in any direction - it's just not that stable under there at all.

Didn't raise the back in the end but I've heard its pretty simple under the rear diff - BUT I DON'T KNOW WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT - let me know if you find out anything reliable

Good luck with the job though - be keen to hear how it goes

This is all so much easier on the bikes

 

[Deleted member 13129]

@Sam Where are the best trolley jack and axle stand points then mate. Full brake overhaul this week for me so this info would save some time. Ta.

Your best way of jacking up a 120 is if the front is to be raised take off the larger bash plate behind the front smaller one and with a 3 ton pro type trolly jack like a sealy or SGS with the long jack handle and rubber pad , make sure the jack can rise at least 550mm ,( I wouldn't bother with the micky mouse type that you get in halfords ect) , jack up from the centre of the crossmember that the front lower wishbones are attached , it will raise the whole front end , then place the axle stands a little further back on the side chassis as in the hand book . SGS sell jacks with axle stands that have rubber covers over the tops of the stands and very good prices for pro equipment , if you dont want to take off the bash plates you can jack up under the lower wishbones per side and lift one front end side at a time and puting one axle stand under at a time , at the rear just jack up the rear axle diff in the centre next to the drain plug with your trolly jack then put your axle stands under the side chassis a bit further up front , you can jack up all 4 wheels at the same time as well if you want doing it this way , if doing all 4 wheels make sure the axle stands are all on the same level along the chassis rails so the car is dead strait . But obviously you need 4 axle stands to lift all for wheels at the same time . sorry made a mistake mines a 520mm lift .