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1HD-FT (24v Turbo 80) valve adjustment

Chris

Chris

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Well guys a feel like a total forum virgin here asking this. I have used the search function that I tell others to use and I've looked in the download section and drawn a blank. I have the rocker cover off to replace the gasket and I figured I'd check the clearances. But I don't know what they are nor the procedure - if it's anything other than the usual TDC measure 1 and 6 etc etc. I don't know if it's anything more complicated. But just rocking the loose ones, there does seem to be quite a gap. I'd say my engine was pretty quiet and pulls very well, but there's certainly more clearance than I'd expect just by feel.

I have the 12v manual but not the 24.

Anyone out there got any wisdom on the matter. Seems rude not to check them after getting all oily.
 
There’s definitely something on here Chris, I’ll have a look.
 
Well that's the set up, but it's not quite what I'd call a step by step guide including all the clearances. I kinda need 24v set up 101.

C
 
Chris said:
Well that's the set up, but it's not quite what I'd call a step by step guide including all the clearances. I kinda need 24v set up 101.

C
Click to expand...
Was this no use then :think: ? :-
Towpack said:
As stated in the FSM, it is critical that you support the valve bridge with a spanner when loosening/tightening the valve bridge lock nut so the bridge itself is not subject to any twisting force.

1. Loosen the VB locknut and back out the adjuster until it's clear of the top of the valve stem.

2. Loosen the rocker arm locknut and set the gap to .2mm in, .50mm ex using feeler gauges and tighten the locknut.

3.Check the rocker arm clearance you've just set does not change when you loosen the adjusting screw on the VB (it shouldn't change if you backed out the VB adjusting screw initially in step 1).

4.With the feeler gauge in the rocker arm, tighten the VB adjuster until the gauge just starts to bind and tighten the VB locknut (DON'T FORGET THE SPANNER!)..

5. Loosen the rocker arm locknut again and re-adjust the rocker arm clearance with the feeler gauge and tighten the locknut.

An unusual procedure on a tappet setup I've personally not come across before but STILL less hassle than shims IMO.
Click to expand...
 
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In Starcruisers link, Post 12 from Frank suggest to open up the gap before using the feeler gauge, That’s what I did when I did mine after struggling with them for a bit, was easy enough after that.. I also read that they don’t really change that much even after 200k, so it may not be worth the hassle doing them!
 
It took me 3 attempts to sort mine out. They're a challenge to say the least! I sorted mine by using a magnetic base dial gauge from seeing how seejay did his.
I followed the FSM but got confused by it! But used the clearances for the top adjustments. I realised that the adjustment on the bridge was to keep the bridge level and opening both of the valves at the same instance.

As you have to turn the lower crank over again I used a white marker to dot each saddle each time I checked each valve so all 24 had two double checked dots on them!

Mine was very tappy and after the job was smoothe!

Hope this helps you man!:thumbup:
 
No really Rich, no. It's a sort of I had a problem doing this, but not actually how to do it fully. It doesn't include the clearances which is kinda important. The second link to the service manual is more what I'm after. I could do with the whole FSM for the engine which isn't on the download section oddly.

Does sound like a bit of a faff Iwan. Any further tips and links really appreciated. Jake, agree, but I'd like to check them at least.
 
Chris, once you start with the manual pages in front of you and understand the bridge & valve gaps and get your routine you will fly through it.
 
Cheers Jake. Always makes more sense with it in front of you.
 
Yes well the mists are clearing but the manual is not incredibly clear. I agree. I get what I am trying to measure / adjust. Just not sure yet exactly how to.
The main rocker arm has to have a clearance to the bridge. Check. The bridge has to have a clearance to the top of both valve stems. Check. I'm getting there ... I just think they could have made it a bit easier.

I'd have stuck a feeler under the bridge on top of one of the stems and set it. That would be split by two effectively once running. Then set the distance to bridge / rocker. Also it telly you to note the out of spec rocker measurement but doesn't tell you what to do with it. I'm going to try and measure a few first and see what they're like.
 
I can see why not many people tackle this job. What a &^%£*@£$.

Right. After 2 hours, I have now:
Found the timing mark. Could they have put that anywhere harder to see? No.
I have TDC Compression (I think) and felt all of the rockers that are associated with that. Some are very loose and some quite tight to the touch that is.
However, there are some others on the second rotation that are loose too (which should be tight on this 1st cycle) which I don't think should be.
Now this engine runs fine and pulls brilliantly as well as being pretty smooth. I'm guessing that they must all be out. I'm just loath to touch it when it actually does run!
I can't get a feeler gauge in anywhere. Even on a rocker that clearly has quite large clearance, there's no gap anywhere. You're supposed to be able to check the gap rather than adjust it, but I can't find one except between the roller and the cam!!

Given up for now. I get the actual adjusting bit, I'm just not sure where I'm starting from.
 
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A minute ago I was going to ask how you had got on! They're a challenge for sure!

When you turn it over it's quite hard to see if the follower is completely past the rise or fall of the cam which is to the underside and out of sight. So there can always be a growing error there when checking. It's been a while since I've been in there but cause the oil causes a suction on the cup that the feeler gauge goes under it makes it harder to insert the gauge.. I used my finger nail to break the oil suction to insert the gauge!!

Screenshot (15).png

This worked the best as when I used this method the previous feeler gauge recordings were too tight which made me wonder if the piston was slightly tapping the valve! The other tick was the too bigger gap in the follower setup! Two different ticks!
Screenshot (16).png

This method that seejay shared with us is king over the feeler gauge check.. It worked for me lets say..

I looked at dave2000 's post on the link above where he said that the rollers can become oval which can make setting them down to luck if you can get rid of the tick then... very relevant post dave!:clap::thumbup:

If I make it to lincomb I'll bring along the kit in the pic above and you can try this method if you like to Chris, but if you don't have the ticks then you're probably alright Lol!:thumbup:

Hope this makes sense lol!!
 
Iwan, all helpful. I have a mag stand and dial gauge so I might try that too. I shall see if my rollers are round.

Just going to have to take the plunge and start adjusting. I'll get my little camera down there tomorrow to just check that we're on TDC. There's a section of engine block by the sump that would have been perfect to put a mark on. With the AC etc in place seeing the mark and groove is just impossible from any angle.
 
Chris, you know your cam timing is correct, so your adjustments are dependent on the camshaft position, ensure your marks on the cam pulley are dead on, you will have either adjustment cycle 1 or 2, ie cylinder 1 loose and cylinder 6 tight or number 1tight and number 6 loose. You should find that you have 6 loose rockers either way, 3 inlet 3 exhaust
You can run the engine with the rocker cover off and listen for loose rockers, but there will be a little oil spillage!
 
Yes I get that Jake, but what I am saying is that I don't have 6 tight and 6 loose. On cyl 1 cycle I have 7 at least that are loose maybe 8. Oddly the cam mark doesn't seem to line up anywhere near the mark on the backing plate. I'll go through a complete 4 stroke cycle once I can get into a position where I can get a wrench on where I can see. I might take the fan off.

Once I am absolutely certain of the starting position, I shall do them all I think.
 
I think I would just line up the cam marks and fuel pump marks and forget about the crank, then see what you have, if your crank / cam timing was that far out it wouldn’t run well
 
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