1HD-FT Emissions control manual ERM111E

[nielsc]

Anyone have this manual, or know if it is online somewhere?
It is the EURO spec emissions control manual for the 1HD-FT engine.
I want it because I have some trouble with my SICS/BACS/Vacuum system.
Thanks !

 

[chapel gate]

Anyone have this manual, or know if it is online somewhere?
It is the EURO spec emissions control manual for the 1HD-FT engine.
I want it because I have some trouble with my SICS/BACS/Vacuum system.
Thanks !

Ive been after this for a good while. Infact i was going to e mail my contact in japan tonight to see if he can help, he recently sent me a pdf of the connector identification and repair supplement..
ill let you know what he comes back with.

 

[nielsc]

Ive been after this for a good while. Infact i was going to e mail my contact in japan tonight to see if he can help, he recently sent me a pdf of the connector identification and repair supplement..
ill let you know what he comes back with.

Thanks that would be nice !

 

[Iwan]

I don't understand why anyone in their right mind would want to keep the BACS sytem (Boost and Altitude Compensation STOPPER! Who want's to stop boost FFS! The solenoid when open pushes air pressure into the top of the pump under the fuel plunger! Christ what do you want to do that for????
The reason why a 1HDFT is un responsive (low down) and has to be wound up with high revs is to get over the fact that the turbo pressure has to overcome the BACS shite! Complete rubbish the egr etc on the 1hdtft!
I would disconnect the bacs pipe and put a screw in it and blank off the egr... then you'll get a very responsive 1hdtft.. like mine is compared to when it was in the 24v truck.. worth a go!

 

[nielsc]

I don't understand why anyone in their right mind would want to keep the BACS sytem (Boost and Altitude Compensation STOPPER! Who want's to stop boost FFS! The solenoid when open pushes air pressure into the top of the pump under the fuel plunger! Christ what do you want to do that for????
The reason why a 1HDFT is un responsive (low down) and has to be wound up with high revs is to get over the fact that the turbo pressure has to overcome the BACS shite! Complete rubbish the egr etc on the 1hdtft!
I would disconnect the bacs pipe and put a screw in it and blank off the egr... then you'll get a very responsive 1hdtft.. like mine is compared to when it was in the 24v truck.. worth a go!

Well, i would like the manual because I want to know how it normally is set up and how it works. The previous owner has messed with mine and I believe it is not hooked up correctly. (It is hooked up to the vacuum regulating valve behind the boost sensor??)
Also the SICS doesn’t work properly on mine. (It keeps holding vacuum, the solenoid works)

 

[Iwan]

Aww mate it'll run so much better without all the emission stuff really.. they're just an addition to cover all the red tape. I keep having to resort back to the fsm to decode the capitals! Starting Control Injection System SCIS does the 1hdft really need it?

I can take a picture tomorrow to show you where the BACS blow pipe is connected to the injection pump cause it really does make a quite significant difference to responsiveness.. I fitted a redundant vacume pipe with a foam type 2 way valve that will let the fuel pin diaphragm lower area breath as the turbo boosts etc if I make sense.. Just like a normal turbo diesel pump does.

 

[nielsc]

Aww mate it'll run so much better without all the emission stuff really.. they're just an addition to cover all the red tape. I keep having to resort back to the fsm to decode the capitals! Starting Control Injection System SCIS does the 1hdft really need it?

I can take a picture tomorrow to show you where the BACS blow pipe is connected to the injection pump cause it really does make a quite significant difference to responsiveness.. I fitted a redundant vacume pipe with a foam type 2 way valve that will let the fuel pin diaphragm lower area breath as the turbo boosts etc if I make sense.. Just like a normal turbo diesel pump does.

Mine runs to a vacuum switch valve at the crossoverpipe, and from there to a vacuum source. Don’t know if it supposed to run like this, but for now its disconnected like yours.
I tried and hooked it up directly to a vacuum source so it helps pulling down the membrane, the result was lots of smoke on low revs lol.

 

[KriPa]

You are always welcome to come and have a look at mine?

I live +-15K NW of Brussels.

Mine runs to a vacuum switch valve at the crossoverpipe, and from there to a vacuum source. Don’t know if it supposed to run like this, but for now its disconnected like yours.
I tried and hooked it up directly to a vacuum source so it helps pulling down the membrane, the result was lots of smoke on low revs lol.

 

[KriPa]

I mean come and have a look at my car (not the manual)

 

[Iwan]

Mine runs to a vacuum switch valve at the crossoverpipe, and from there to a vacuum source. Don’t know if it supposed to run like this, but for now its disconnected like yours.
I tried and hooked it up directly to a vacuum source so it helps pulling down the membrane, the result was lots of smoke on low revs lol.

Haha.. I did exactly the same thing mate!

I took a pic for future reference.

Where the white pencil is where the inlet is for the BACS blow pipe is. The foam filter is off a 1kzte redundant from another electronic solenoid. It leaves the pipe open to allow the free movement of the fuel pin and most importantly to stop shite getting drawn into the top of the injection pump.

If you do away with the soleniods. Would you consider to disconnect the emissions ecu in front of the centre console? I would be considering that..

 

[chapel gate]

Haha.. I did exactly the same thing mate!

I took a pic for future reference.
View attachment 144044
Where the white pencil is where the inlet is for the BACS blow pipe is. The foam filter is off a 1kzte redundant from another electronic solenoid. It leaves the pipe open to allow the free movement of the fuel pin and most importantly to stop shite getting drawn into the top of the injection pump.

If you do away with the soleniods. Would you consider to disconnect the emissions ecu in front of the centre console? I would be considering that..

I dont understand why you think the diaphram needs assistance in being drawn down? As you know the boost pressure pushes down the diaphram, this means the fuel pin is pushed down in relation to boost. Which is a good thing as more fuel is added as boost increases, which is when it is needed. You can decrease the "pre load" on the diaphram by turning the star wheel and extending the spring so less boost pressure is needed to move the fuel pin. The trouble with this is max fueling will be achieved early in the rpm range and the fuel cut off point will be reached on the fuel pin, meaning a drop in fueling, boost and power.

oh, i want the manual so i fully understand how it works so that i can remove every trace of the thing.

 

[Iwan]

The bacs is working against the diaphragm by blowing air to the underside of the diaphragm. . Part of the emissions control at low revs. Supposedly as if you're in slow traffic and then it moves on.. naturally you'd want to boot it to move on but the bacs solenoid is activated so you dont get a blast of black smoke and then it'll be sluggish till the boost overcomes the bacs activation.
Is yours still connected up mate?
Give it a try.. there's a difference between connected and not.. Interested in what you think by trying it out.
When I did my swap I was looking at it and it appeared really really wrong and I fitted the 1kzte foam valve to allow the air out and back in from under the diaphragm. Plus from looking at other turbo diesel denso pumps.
Hope it makes sense!

 

[nielsc]

Iwan, I believe if you unplug the emissions ECU, the tacho does not work anymore. Thats the only reason I left mine plugged in.
Oh and Chapel gate, I have a "performance" fuel pin , different and deeper taper, it does not have the fuel cut off section. It's because I was messing with the boost comp. settings the BACS and SICS got me thinking. The way I see it on mine , it is connected with a vacuum source trough the vacuum regulating valve, so definatly not getting boost pressure to cut off the fuel/movement of the fuel pin like Iwan states. However the blue and orange solenoids are disconnected on mine.

 

[chapel gate]

Yes mate, makes perfect sense. Ive had the egr valves disconnected for years. I never really looked further into the system than that. The 80 has been a little neglected of late, ive just been too busy. My next little project is the complete removal of the emissions system, ecu, all the vacuum switching valves, wiring etc. Thats why im after the emissions supplement so i can fully understand it and the location of all the components. If you just unplug the loom in the engine bay it runs fine other than the heater plug light that comes on the dash, a couple of wires probable need looping somewhere. Having the wiring diagram and location of the components would make the process easier and quicker for me.

 

[Iwan]

Iwan, I believe if you unplug the emissions ECU, the tacho does not work anymore. Thats the only reason I left mine plugged in.
Oh and Chapel gate, I have a "performance" fuel pin , different and deeper taper, it does not have the fuel cut off section. It's because I was messing with the boost comp. settings the BACS and SICS got me thinking. The way I see it on mine , it is connected with a vacuum source trough the vacuum regulating valve, so definatly not getting boost pressure to cut off the fuel/movement of the fuel pin like Iwan states. However the blue and orange solenoids are disconnected on mine.

I've deleted an engine ecu before now and generally there'll be an input for the rev counter going into the ecu and then an output from the ecu to the clock on the dashboard. So when you know the right wires you just connect the input and output wires and bypass the ecu... the trick is to know which wires so going back to the first post to get the manual, follow the wiring chart to obtain the correct wires etc..

I really don't like ecu's lol! There's seems to be lots of wires involved in the emissions ecu but you would only need perhaps 10% of the wires to make the circuits that you wish to keep working!

 

[Firewout]

Some more info on tacho and ecu
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/tach-not-working-97-hdft-24v.145685/

 

[nielsc]

Did some testing, disconnected the tube from the BACS, it is sloooow to drive like that until the turbo kicks in. So I think mine must have had vacuum beneath the diagram. As I look at all the vacuum lines , that are all in the original place as I can see on a drawing from the parts catalogue, I think it is supposed that way. The SICS mechanism also needs constant vacuum. But then I find it weird that you have found out the opposite

 

[Firewout]

Fwiw : The vacuum lines and solenoids on my truck were all disconnected when I bought it. It's also slooooow until the turbo kicks in.

 

[Brett]

Gents,

I've been looking into this for a while, Like Chapel gate my EGR has been disconnected for ages, but I'm ready to delete all the unnecessary solenoids and vacuum pipes. I did place a post on the 80 forum but didn't get much response.

I have found a really useful Russian website which gives the full details of what needs to be removed and what needs to be kept, you'll need to use google translate (unless you can speak Russian, of course!) so it can be a bit hard to follow. I'll post the links below.

https://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.php?/topic/148583-otklyuchenie-egr-na-1hd-ft-faza-2-final/

This second link details the development of the 1HD-FT and how it ended up strangled with emissions control equipment, it was never originally designed to be like this. Very interesting reading.

https://www.land-cruiser.ru/index.p...a-motora-kotoromu-ne-davali-normalno-dyshat…/

 

[nielsc]

Good find, intresting read.