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1HD FTE Injection pump removal

nathanrobo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Messages
655
It's been a number of years since I've done this job, so I thought it would be useful to detail it with pictures etc which might be useful for anyone doing the same for the first time in the future... (thanks to Karl for clarifying a couple of technical points that i was unsure on):

Anyway pics and process to follow:
 
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1. Strip out fan hosing (it makes the job easier if you strip out the radiator too)
2. Take off the timing belt cover
3. Take off EGR Assy.
4. Number both ends of all 6 injector pipes and remove, also remove electrical plugs and pipes
5. Loosen the Alternator and remove belts
6. Loosen the bracket from the viscous heater (if fitted) and remove belt
7. Remove the four nuts (12mm socket) on back of the pump. Note only two of these bolts are visible, the two between the pump and the block need a long 1/4" drive bar
8. Using a socket (1 1/4" I think) rotate the crank pulley clockwise until the BDC marks on No 1 pulley (end of cam) align and the no2 pulley on the Injection pump align
9. Loosen No2 pulley enough to unscrew the large nut on the end of the IP's shaft
10. Remove the two stays that fix the IP to the engine block
11. Using a press push out the IP on the pulley side (Press pushes out the large nut on the end of the IP's shaft)

Sounds easy, but it took me about a day and a half.

Pics below (Questions welcomed):

Front of engine stripped out...

http://IMG_8188_zpsjv7uamdq.jpg

Alignment for No1 pulley BDC / No pulley on IP

http://IMG_8190_zpsdlypzryw.jpg

http://IMG_8191_zpsi9vz0qth.jpg


Injection pump with injection pipes, electrical plugs, stays removed

http://IMG_8193_zpsxk0b4xkx.jpg

IP pump press

http://IMG_8192%201_zpsvlafo6zf.jpg


With IP removed - this shows the location of the two 12mm nuts that cannot be seen at the back of the IP (bit of a pain to remove)

http://back%20of%20the%20IP_zpsdf8jgkgh.jpg

IP out - took out injectors too (might as well have them sonically cleaned and spray pattern tested)

http://IMG_8198_zpstuqmuxtq.jpg

This is the correct SST - goes without saying that it's pretty easy to make your own.

http://SST%20for%20pump%20removal_zpswvndy91e.png

Needless to say that whilst you have your engine this stripped down you might as well do the following:

Change the timing belt plus tensioner and pulley (they are 90K miles intervals), alternator belts (x2), viscous heater belts and water pump, valve clearances and it you are removing your injectors, they need to be installed with new o'rings and seals between injectors and injector pipes. I'm also going to do engine and gearbox oils / filters, fuel filter and coolant.

Also if your car is before, I think it's 2003 /4 it's worth inspecting the plug for the spill valve. There's a TSB from Toyo and a kit to renew this plug due to the connections becoming poor over time. Unfortunately some dealers can't find the bulletin and even if they know what they are talking about, they won't supply the parts. I got a quote a few years back for the modification and it was £400 for splicing an electrical plug onto the loom. Anyway if you car doesn't start after priming the filter, you can test the spill valve plug by making a small nick in both wires near the plug (just enough to allow you to connect with a multimeter). Both wires should buzz out when testing for continuity.
 

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Very well explained NR, but why did you need to remove it? I only ask as mine has done 200K but runs very well.
 
The truck hasn't been run for most of the year, starting was a bit difficult and when I drained the fuel filter to investigate, the fuel looked a bit crappy. So rather than mess around, I decided to strip out. You might have seen my other posts, I'm often going a bit OTT on servicing / overhauling:

Interior (Summer '14) - brand new carpets plus soundproofing & underlay, Refurbed leather, most of the bushes (previously did all of the bushes in 2010 30K miles ago. Also did CV joints last summer, then a very complete body strip down (another thread) and repaint with new badges and body mouldings. I think when this is done, that'll be it. Mileage is still fairly low at 120 something K.

I've been threatening to move on from the LC for about 3 years. I may finally do it when this lot is done ;-))
 
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Putting everything together now (rebuilt injectors - new nozzles, IP tested, cleaned calibrated etc. new cambelt, tensioner, pulleys, drive belts).

Need a bit of help now though. Whenever I've had injector seats out in the past, if they haven't come out with the injectors they have come out without too much bother. This time, I've managed to get only one out and the rest seem to be welded in??

I've tried a home made slide hammer using a threaded bar and gently turning the thread so that it bits into the seat. Unfortunately it only worked with one cylinder.

Does anyone have any approach to removing the seats when they are really stubborn?
 
Hi Nathan,

Why did you removed your pump?
Do you happen to know the part number of the pump?
I'm having issues with mine and it seems to be different than the one expected
Expected pump: 22100-1C170
Current pump: 22100-1C400

I don't know whats happening. The shop that I took the pump for verification says that the pump is not the original one, but maybe they don't know enough about it.

My car is produced in Sept 2000.

Thank you!
 
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If you look on toyodiy, or ask your dealer, and find the Toyota part number you will be find the correct Denso number to match from a list on the 'web.
 
I did search but it doesn't elucidate the mister around my current pump.
After further research I think it could be a pump from a RHD variant or a newer car.
If somebody could post their pump code from a RHD car maybe I can be certain that this is what happened.
 
Mine is 2004 5 spd diesel with egr. Pump numbers are as follows on toyodiy for my frame number.

22100-1C400 (with egr).
22100-1C420
 
Yes, it looks like you have the IP from a 2003-2007, 5-speed cruiser. The E-ECU is also different on those years and the algoritms for controlling the IP are slightly different. I don't think you would have the newer ECU though, because there are several external differences as well, like the instruments cluster and the butterfly valve. You could check the part# on your E-ECU just to make sure. I don't think the differences are that great, between the old and new IP/ECU, so you might be OK. I had a 2000 complete engine in my 2004 for a while, and that was no problem. (That's the other way around tho')
The ECU numbers are:
2004: 89661-60B00 (or 89666-60761 for Russia)
2000: 89661-60750 (89666-60440 late 2000 & 2001, or 89661-60890, 89666-60460 Rus)
 
While we're talking about the inside of these motors . . . Has anyone checked the state of the inlet manifold & inlet ports on a motor that's done around 140,000 miles ??

I recently had to strip down and re-build my daughter's 2007 RAV4's 2.2 litre D-4D motor - twin Cam, 16 valve, Common Rail diesel with Euro-5 compliance. It was choked solid with carbon from the EGR system :doh:.

The motor had done 164,000 miles, a lot of that on motorways, so I would have expected it to be as clean as possible, as it was I'm surprised it ran at all (it blew its head gasket).

DSCN7245_zpsdkdwudlm.jpg



Its all sorted now but it took weeks to clean all the components (the cylinder head was pressure tested and skimmed and the Injectors serviced).

My 4.2 litre lump has 136,000 miles on it and is used almost exclusively for towing - is it likely to be choked up as well ??

It took a while to hand-lap 16 tiny valves in the RAV head, I'm not looking forward to doing 24 :shock:.

Bob.
 
Yes, it looks like you have the IP from a 2003-2007, 5-speed cruiser. The E-ECU is also different on those years and the algoritms for controlling the IP are slightly different. I don't think you would have the newer ECU though, because there are several external differences as well, like the instruments cluster and the butterfly valve. You could check the part# on your E-ECU just to make sure. I don't think the differences are that great, between the old and new IP/ECU, so you might be OK. I had a 2000 complete engine in my 2004 for a while, and that was no problem. (That's the other way around tho')
The ECU numbers are:
2004: 89661-60B00 (or 89666-60761 for Russia)
2000: 89661-60750 (89666-60440 late 2000 & 2001, or 89661-60890, 89666-60460 Rus)

Hi uHu, I see that you know well the differences of 1hdfte engines thru years. Please, I am having real chalenges to tune my engine wich is 2004, 5 speed auto, MAF on engine. I have upgraded the turbocharger, I have install an Unichip Q+ version but I can not increase fuel delivery below 2000 rpm. Over 2000 rpm everything is flawless but below I can not increase the response of IP nomather what I do. What can be the cause? Which sensor should I check or control? Thank you!
 
Hi uHu, I see that you know well the differences of 1hdfte engines thru years. Please, I am having real chalenges to tune my engine wich is 2004, 5 speed auto, MAF on engine. I have upgraded the turbocharger, I have install an Unichip Q+ version but I can not increase fuel delivery below 2000 rpm. Over 2000 rpm everything is flawless but below I can not increase the response of IP nomather what I do. What can be the cause? Which sensor should I check or control? Thank you!
Hi, I´m in Iceland and I´m in the same situation. Did you find any solution to this problem. We upgraded turbine and installed an tuner but the truck is very sluggish below 2000 rpm. We had of course VNT turbine before and ECU for that. I have been wondering if replacing the ecu could help.
 
Hi, I´m in Iceland and I´m in the same situation. Did you find any solution to this problem. We upgraded turbine and installed an tuner but the truck is very sluggish below 2000 rpm. We had of course VNT turbine before and ECU for that. I have been wondering if replacing the ecu could help.

Hi Thor, unfortunetly I do not have a positive answer for you. I have tried every kind of tuning without succes. I am looking to buy an ECU from Australia, Graeme from GTurbo thinks that it will work. I have not found a serios supplier for an ECU, I tried Facebook and here on forum.
 
Hi Thor, unfortunetly I do not have a positive answer for you. I have tried every kind of tuning without succes. I am looking to buy an ECU from Australia, Graeme from GTurbo thinks that it will work. I have not found a serios supplier for an ECU, I tried Facebook and here on forum.
Ok, same here, also turbo from Graham. My facebook acccount Agust Thor Gudbergsson for pm. Pls. connect so we can discuss this matter.
 
Hi Looking for the following part:

Engine Control Toyota 89661-60750 1HDFTE / 175800-2107 12V

Model: HD100 Toyota Land Cruiser Amazon

Year: 2000

Engine: 4200 cc
 
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