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1HD-FTE Valve Clearance

After reading that three times it’s as clear as mud.

From what I can make out you are setting the valve bridge to rocker arm clearance with the valve bridge adjustment screw backed off, then maintaining the gap you have just set while setting the screw in the valve bridge to just touch the top of the valve. The idea being to allow the bridge to ‘settle’ on top of one valve and then set the gap to rocker arm and (no) gap to remaining valve from there keeping the valve bridge in a neutral position (neither uphill nor down).

Never done it but that’s how I read the instructions above.

There’s folk far more used to this sort of thing than I am on here so let’s wait and see if I’ve got it anywhere near close. :)
 
Yes I think you could be right there. For instance it mentions about checking the gap when the screw in the valve bridge is loosened. Well it says to back that one off right in the beginning so that bit looks a bit suspect and I’ve ignored it in my thinking above.
 
You will note there is only one adjusting screw on the valve bridge despite the fact it operates two valves. The procedure as it is ensures the gap between the tops of both valves and the bridge is the same. If the bridge adjusting screw is not backed fully off initially, the gaps above both valves could end up different.
 
When I first did my 24v I followed the FSM and too got a bit confused with the terminology as I followed it through. Then after studying the valve bridge. The adjustment on it is for making sure that both valves are opening at the same rate and that the valve bridge is horizontal. I ended up checking the valve bridge by levering the follower off the cam carefully to check that both valves open or make contact at the same time.
When adjusting each rocker put a dot of white dot, I had some tipex so that worked and when you recheck that rocker and are happy with the reading put a second dot to denote that you're happy with the setting.
Best to mark them as there's a few to remember otherwise! If you tighten the follower too much you will get a tick when the engines warmed up! Good luck with it! :thumbup:
 
Note the bridge adjuster is directly above one valve. If you tighten down the bridge adjuster, this would reduce the rocker to bridge clearance but increase the clearance between the bridge and the other valve. Remove the rocker in your minds eye and you will see that tightening the bridge adjusting screw will contact the valve top, ie zero clearance and at the same time raise the bridge increasing the clearance over the other valve.
 
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Personally I still think the setup is no more hassle than changing shims, less in fact as you don’t need to get the correct shims! Did the clearances on the bike last year, 16 under bucket shims, not held in stock by local dealers WTF!, and requiring cam removal with minimal access, nightmare.
 
Yes, I think you'll be ok.
In an attempt to simplify the procedure, we could say it this way:

A: Of the two valves sharing one bridge, one has an adjuster and one has not.
B: Before adjusting the rocker gap, you first make sure the valve with an individual adjuster is not in contact with the bridge.
C: Then you adjust the rocker gap. (Rocker to bridge gap)
D: After adjusting the rocker gap, you retighten the individual valve adjuster on the bridge, to the point that you can feel it on the feeler gauge which is still inserted between rocker and bridge. That way you have ensured that both of the two valves are pushed equally.

I think the confusing info is that the FSM states that after point C above, they have added that you should try to loosen (unscrew) the individual valve adjuster even more, just to double check that that valve is not touching the bridge.

So yes, your initial postulation is correct: The feeler goes only between the rocker (-screw) and the top of the bridge.

Keep a few sizes of spanners handy to hold the rockers and bridges steady while undoing and tightening the lock nuts, and make sure you have a couple of hours without interruption set aside.
 
BRIDGE :

1. Undo screw and nut.
2. Press down on other side with finger making sure no clearance.
3. Whilst pressing down do up the screw with driver until resistance is felt.
4. Fasten lock nut.

I think confusion may arise as once the lock nut is fastened there is no way to check the adjustment.

I cleaned the tops of my main rockers and numbered them 1-12 with a felt tip then crossed them off after adjustment. I got confused otherwise. lol.
 
If you have to undo the spill pipes on top of he injectors new ally washers must be fitted otherwise you'll have a sump full of diesel like I did. They crush to the exact square profile of the injector top.
 
A little bit easier for access with pipe off but a lottle more trouble! I left it on next time around.
BRIDGE :

1. Undo screw and nut.
2. Press down on other side with finger making sure no clearance.
3. Whilst pressing down do up the screw with driver until resistance is felt.
4. Fasten lock nut.

I think confusion may arise as once the lock nut is fastened there is no way to check the adjustment.

I cleaned the tops of my main rockers and numbered them 1-12 with a felt tip then crossed them off after adjustment. I got confused otherwise. lol.

Digging up this old thread...

Am planning on doing valve adjustment in my 1hd-ft. I have researched and am still a little confused.

Basically do I:
Align pulley with mark so that some of the rocker arms are loose (as per FSM)

Then on the loose rockers, adjust VB so its resting (no clearance) on both valves with a finger on the valve without the screw/nut just like the above quote.

Then back off the rocker-to-VB screw/nut and set this clearance with feeler gauge.

Then rotate motor 360 and repeat for the other valves that are now loose?

Many thanks.
Tim
 
That's about the size of it yes. One tip I'd give you is to look for a better way to hold the VB whilst you tighten up the lock nut. Getting a standard wrench in there is darn tricky on some valves. If I did another I'd probably fashion a special tool. Incredibly Toyota doesn't have a SST for this, they show an adjustable spanner. I would think that a Crowfoot spanner would be a start. Mine definitely runs sweeter for having done it.


The procedure sounds really convoluted but it makes more sense once you are in there. Just make sure you use the correct gap for inlet and exhaust. It's easy to loose concentration.
 
Digging up this old thread...
...Then on the loose rockers, adjust VB so its resting (no clearance) on both valves with a finger on the valve without the screw/nut just like the above quote....
Correction on the highlighted point:
The valve bridge should touch only one valve when adjusting the gap, the one without the adjuster directly on the valve stem. I.e. you back off the adjuster screw above the valve, then adjust the bridge to rocker gap, and finally re-tighten the adjuster above the valve so that it's just touching. That way you should have the same lift on both valves.
 
I.e. you back off the adjuster screw above the valve, then adjust the bridge to rocker gap, and finally re-tighten the adjuster above the valve so that it's just touching. That way you should have the same lift on both valves.

When adjusting the bridge to rocker gap am I tightening/locking that before tightening/locking the adjuster above the valve? Thanks
 
Ive just done mine, the manual doesn't really explain it that clearly but the job is simple enough took about 3 hours start to finish and at 155k miles it needed doing.
 
Well done. yes it makes more sense that the manual once you've done it. I'd describe it as mildly terrifying when you read it, but it's really not and the benefits are worth it. One of my valves was miles out of whack.
 
A few of mine were going tight but she ran like a clock all the same, im just waiting on some new injectors the first ones from Denso/Colchester Fuel Injection were for the 100 with an egr cooler dual vane turbo and swirl flaps in the intake so they will have to go back just hope they can get the right ones sorted for me. Also got a new 120amp alternator to go on and a few other bits and prices its been a long road, nearly 2 1/2 years and more money than i want to remember but like most i love the old girl. Thanks for your input Chris much appreciated.
 
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Mine has just clicked over 200K Kilometres and had them done at 150K, the manual states they should be checked every 20K, the Toyota dealer say,s every 40K and the diesel specialist down the road suggests every 100K what are your thoughts. I have done them once and could not check clearances without backing them off
and resetting as per the manual as you can’t get the feeler gauge in.
 
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