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1kzte with mitsubishi 4m40 pump

Iwan

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wales
After doing some research on this kind of modification, I've decided to give it a go!

A couple of weeks ago I managed to buy a cheap 1kzte engine from a year 2000 manual colorado. Unwarranted from the buyer but nothing is impossible.

Its got real good compression, still had toyota red coolant in it, been handled quite badly in the breaker's yard, the clutch is worn

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I hadnt got a pic when it arrived but had stripped out all the sensors and embarked on removing the "e" pump.
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Timing belt wise they're very easy to work on.

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Was a bit oily to use the camera when removing the injection pump pulley, but also an easy procedure.
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I have removed the egr and blanked that off, when looking at the inlet manifold noticed the restriction that there is in there. I've removed both of the flaps that control the air inlet piece and have put bolts in place of the shutter pin.
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This is the Zexel made pump that I managed to get hold of. It was on a 2.8td Pajero.
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There's a few things that you need to strip off the pump. It has a water controlled cold start advance and retard system seen on the pic before, I've read that you can loose that item and have read that the inner mechanism that opperates the advance/retard can break off and badly score the inside of the pump.
But at the moment I have had to take the lower water feed pipe off (bottom of the last pic) as it gets in the way of fitting the pump on the engine.

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It fits on with ease really, just had to grind a bit out of the engine mount to allow the pump to fit in. Then tighten the pump drive bolt and refit the cambelt pulley.

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A pic of the inlet manifold opened up. Should let quite a bit more air into the manifold or at least there isn't an obstruction.

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Had to take the collie sump off and put a IFS sump on as the collie sump will be clashing with the front axle as intended to fit into a 70 (of course!)

Was happy to see when I took the sump off as it was very clean and no sign of swarf etc.

Last night had a pop at getting it running, but had a limited amount of time and very poor fuel.

Will have to add a pic of the staring scenario off my mobile later.

I'm quite confident as its been done before but it's new and interesting to me.:cool:
 

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Very interesting! :think:

Do all 1KZ-T/1KZ-TE's have the restriction in the intake pipe?

I couldn't work out exactly where it is from your pics above. :oops:

Which project is this engine going into? :icon-twisted:
 
Nice work! I've seen this done to a few landcruisers in the US. It's a popular mod for those wanting to lose the electronics on the pump. And it's highly tuneable for more fuel and power. Engine looks good as well! Look forward to seeing your progress.

Ben, not all do. I think the 1KZT has the obstruction of which he's just removed. But the 1KZT-E has it open. It's a cold start device fitted with a smaller butterfly valve that opens and closes when starting and shutting down the engine. Not sure if the 1KZT engine had these hence no cut out for it in the manifold.
 
The "flap" on the TE versions is home to a small butterfly which is i believe related to the egr . I have found in the past a custom inlet manifold made by a specialist company who block this butterfly quote "to keep the engine healthy" I may block mine off at some point just to smooth the turbulence it must cause in air flow . Looking forward to seeing what results you get Iwan i'm not sure a pump that size would physically fit in place of mine .
 
Thanks for the encouragement guys! After removing the smaller butterfly the obstruction was directly below it. There was a real horrible mess left in the inlet manifold left from the egr. So quite a messy job to get in there and clean it out.

When I was turning it over I was trying different settings of advance and retard by turning the pump. It was turning over smoother when it was turned back to the engine. There was a write up of a guy who elongated the mounts to enable the pump to go further back (to retard) the pump. Would be interesting to see if it could be done by turning the pump drive gear back to achieve the same result.

http://www.biopowered.co.uk/wiki/Mitsubishi_Delica_fuel_system

This is a good information source. Regarding the advance retard systems on the pump. Something I need to study a bit more...

IMG-20150828-WA0005.jpeg
This is my starting scenario. May get a chance to give it another try later today. :icon-cool:
 
The "flap" on the TE versions is home to a small butterfly which is i believe related to the egr . I have found in the past a custom inlet manifold made by a specialist company who block this butterfly quote "to keep the engine healthy" I may block mine off at some point just to smooth the turbulence it must cause in air flow . Looking forward to seeing what results you get Iwan i'm not sure a pump that size would physically fit in place of mine .


That's what I was thinking initially regarding the smaller butterfly. But when I took the manifold off the egr goes directly into the inlet manifold. The ledge in the opening is worth opening up as its quite unnecessary and would cause the turbulence you say.

This engine is the same and from model of truck as you have. . So the fitment if you were to do it is the same. Cheers mate :thumbup:
 
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You could turn the drive gear back but I would be careful with this. You would need to remove the key from the spline in order to put the pump in the housing at a different spot (more retard). As the engine is out you have a lot of room to work with so I'm sure it's possible.
 
Pic from the FSM as requested by Iwan. :icon-wink:

Let me know if it doesn't show what you want. :thumbup:
 

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Hey thanks Ben for the page! It's just so I know what to expect if I go for moving the gearing!:thumbup:

So a bit more research to get an exact idea of how much the pump needs to be retarded. If the pump is set dead central on it's fitting and the cambelt is set at TDC. Then get into the gearing, was interested about the idler gear cause when removed it will allow the pump gear to be retarded.

If the pump needs to be retarded by 10 degrees (for examle). Then if my thinking is correct....

360 degrees divided by number of teeth on the pump gear = number of teeth per 1 degree (x) say

x multiplied by number of degrees (10) = number of teeth to retard the pump..... then refit the idler pulley..

I am sure there will be factory timing marks on the gears? So can always return it back to factory...

Is my thinking correct?:think:
 
Been a while on this one! I started work and it was moved into the store shed.

It's been on my mind to get this running. A couple of weeks back I managed to get hold of a denso pump off a Daihatsu rocky 2.8td off ebay for 50£. Cheap enough so gave it a go!


As the Daihatsu pump is on the other side of the engine, the ACSD assy will be on the engine side of the pump when installed on the 1kzt (e:thumbdown:)! So saw the explanation thread recently on the 80 series side of the forum. .. same job and followed suit with the blanking off home made plate.

So manually dragged the 1kzt (e:thumbdown:) out of the store and fitted the new denso pump on.. Straight fit and can use the original rear mount too now. Didn't have a dial gauge at the time so set it centrally. Very hard to start and when it did maaan white smoke and missfire! Filled the workshop with white smoke!

Was too advanced. . So the dail gauge research starts.

Good info here... factory pump settings found off the web.

Europe 0.39 to 0.43

Others 0.58 to 0.62 microns.

Managed to get hold of a Gauge from a good friend last night so this morning gave it a go.

Set the engine to before TDC.. off compression then set the dail gauge to zero. Turn the engine to TDC.. the observe the dail. Mine was .23 so too advanced so turned the pump back to the engine (to retard ) to .60

A bit of a bleed and a blast of glow... fired up clean as a whistle smoke wise! Wicked not a (e:thumbdown:) anymore! :lol:


Pics have failed me tonight ... maybe attachments at the base.:think:

To me its interesting the gauge settings. .. europe...others??? Large range, tuning range I am thinking

When my internet improves I will add a running video and dail gauge pics.

Really happy that my budget unknown engine is a runner! !!


More to come :thumbup:
 
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