80 Series Factory Ice Maker/Fridge

[Zach R]

Hey guys,

Just bought an 80 with the factory ice maker/fridge.

Im reaching out for any information on these. Mine turns on, switch lights turn green, fan runs, but does not get cold. Im not very familiar with AC systems but it seems simple enough. I do have cold air in the factory rear AC system so there is freon in the lines under the floor. So maybe there is an additional electrical current that needs to work, other than the fan turning on? Otherwise the box would always be cold from the freon flowing through the little condenser in the center console? The COLD, and ICE switch must do more thAn just turn on the fan. Also do I understand the system correctly that this console will only become cold if the dash AC is also on, to trigger the compressor? Or should the center console be able to switch on the compressor on its own? Similarly the rear AC needs the dash AC on to run the compressor (at-least that is how it is working on my truck).

I took the main box away to expose the condenser and all so i can start to trouble shoot it. Any of these wire harnesses not plugged into anything mean anything? There is a heating system under the passenger seat that also has open wire harnesses all over it too, I can tell from a quick inspection that something is broken in the heater fan, so someone may have been unplugging harnesses trying to disconnect it from power and pulled something for the AC...

Also snapped a photo of the rear AC system that I just took apart to clean, not sure how common these are, but though people might like to see it.

Thanks so much!!

 

[fbnss]

I don't know the answer to any of your questions i'm afraid. Never seen that in the boot before!

 

[clivehorridge]

I don't know the answer to any of your questions i'm afraid. Never seen that in the boot before!

Me neither, never seen anything like that. I note it’s a LHD, what country/market spec is it?

 

[Zach R]

I don't know the answer to any of your questions i'm afraid. Never seen that in the boot before!

 

[Zach R]

Middle East and Australia got these options in a few models. This is a 97 VX 1HD-T I bought it in Costa Rica. I found other cruisers online with everything this one has except for this factory winch bumper, so maybe some spec for Central America...

 

[Zach R]

Middle East and Australia got these options in a few models. This is a 97 VX 1HD-T I bought it in Costa Rica. I found other cruisers online with everything this one has except for this factory winch bumper, so maybe some spec for Central America...

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Hello and welcome Zack.

Firstly it is important to check-

Does the fan work upon pressing the "cool' button
Secondly, if you have gas in the system you need to make sure you have no leaks. This can be done at a specialist store in your region.
If these are all good like mine this part 88515-60020 expansion valve may be faulty. Like mine in my vehicle, it works to cool sometimes and sometime not!!
I have still to change mine having bought one and yet it is a well-known issue on these that do go wrong.
Very easy to change over just need to take all gas out, change part and regas and check for leaks.

Best of luck

 

[Dave2000]

IIRC there is an additional solenoid or valve that allows the Freon to circulate through the console fridge? Not actually worked on the centre console option but just a thought.

regards

Dave

 

[jibberjabber]

Hey guys,

Just bought an 80 with the factory ice maker/fridge.

Im reaching out for any information on these. Mine turns on, switch lights turn green, fan runs, but does not get cold. Im not very familiar with AC systems but it seems simple enough. I do have cold air in the factory rear AC system so there is freon in the lines under the floor. So maybe there is an additional electrical current that needs to work, other than the fan turning on? Otherwise the box would always be cold from the freon flowing through the little condenser in the center console? The COLD, and ICE switch must do more thAn just turn on the fan. Also do I understand the system correctly that this console will only become cold if the dash AC is also on, to trigger the compressor? Or should the center console be able to switch on the compressor on its own? Similarly the rear AC needs the dash AC on to run the compressor (at-least that is how it is working on my truck).

I took the main box away to expose the condenser and all so i can start to trouble shoot it. Any of these wire harnesses not plugged into anything mean anything? There is a heating system under the passenger seat that also has open wire harnesses all over it too, I can tell from a quick inspection that something is broken in the heater fan, so someone may have been unplugging harnesses trying to disconnect it from power and pulled something for the AC...

Also snapped a photo of the rear AC system that I just took apart to clean, not sure how common these are, but though people might like to see it.

Thanks so much!!

View attachment 164714 View attachment 164715 View attachment 164716 View attachment 164717 View attachment 164718 View attachment 164719

Hi Zach,

I have over 40 years in HVAC-R (retired), and to be quite honest I think you are in over your head, I do not mean to be rude but I think you would be far better off taking you 80 to a certified Auto A/C engineer as the system is not as simple as you think, and you as a self confessed novice will end up doing more harm than good, granted it is only two pipes, and in your case, three inside evaporators, one condenser at the front and a compressor, sound simple enough doesn't it.

There are in your case three TEV's Thermal Expansion valves, one on each of the evaporators, i.e front, fridge, and rear, all controlled by a magnetic switch attached to each individual Expansion Valve, if any one of them needs to be replaced, or indeed any part of the refrigeration system, and when I say "refrigeration system" I mean any of the pipe work is opened, the system will need recharging, more special tool are needed for this, as the 134a refrigerant will need to be weighed in, but before this is done the system needs to be pressure tested with OFN 'Oxygen Free Nitrogen' then the system needs to be 'Evacuated' using another special tool called a 'Vac Pump', all this, and thats not to mention adding oil to the system, and changing the filter dryer.

BTW, this info is only part of the steps needed to test/repair a car A/C system. I don't know if there any regulations with regard to 'handling refrigerant' in your part of the world, but here in the UK there is a thing called 'F-Gas Reg's' witch spells out all the do's and dont's to do with Ozone depleting gases, and it's the law, with heavy penalties if you don't abide by the rules.

I am telling you all this so that you see that it's not a DIY job, and I don't want you to 'cock it up' as we say in the UK.

You have done a good job with regard to exposing the two evap's, so if you do take my advice and take you car to a A/C engineer that knows what he's doing, he won't need to charge you for the work you have already done.

As I say, there are some special tool that are needed, first and foremost but not limited to, are a set of gauge analyzers, that read 134a pressures and temperatures.

I hope this is of some help and insight, everything is easy if you know what your doing. Also a little knowledge dangerous. I may act the clown in some of the other forums, but when it comes to HVAC-R I know what I'm talking about.

Good luck, stay safe.

P.S all this is common to most 'Automobile A/C' not just an 80 series Land Cruiser.

 

[Zach R]

Hi Zach,

I have over 40 years in HVAC-R (retired), and to be quite honest I think you are in over your head, I do not mean to be rude but I think you would be far better off taking you 80 to a certified Auto A/C engineer as the system is not as simple as you think, and you as a self confessed novice will end up doing more harm than good, granted it is only two pipes, and in your case, three inside evaporators, one condenser at the front and a compressor, sound simple enough doesn't it.

There are in your case three TEV's Thermal Expansion valves, one on each of the evaporators, i.e front, fridge, and rear, all controlled by a magnetic switch attached to each individual Expansion Valve, if any one of them needs to be replaced, or indeed any part of the refrigeration system, and when I say "refrigeration system" I mean any of the pipe work is opened, the system will need recharging, more special tool are needed for this, as the 134a refrigerant will need to be weighed in, but before this is done the system needs to be pressure tested with OFN 'Oxygen Free Nitrogen' then the system needs to be 'Evacuated' using another special tool called a 'Vac Pump', all this, and thats not to mention adding oil to the system, and changing the filter dryer.

BTW, this info is only part of the steps needed to test/repair a car A/C system. I don't know if there any regulations with regard to 'handling refrigerant' in your part of the world, but here in the UK there is a thing called 'F-Gas Reg's' witch spells out all the do's and dont's to do with Ozone depleting gases, and it's the law, with heavy penalties if you don't abide by the rules.

I am telling you all this so that you see that it's not a DIY job, and I don't want you to 'cock it up' as we say in the UK.

You have done a good job with regard to exposing the two evap's, so if you do take my advice and take you car to a A/C engineer that knows what he's doing, he won't need to charge you for the work you have already done.

As I say, there are some special tool that are needed, first and foremost but not limited to, are a set of gauge analyzers, that read 134a pressures and temperatures.

I hope this is of some help and insight, everything is easy if you know what your doing. Also a little knowledge dangerous. I may act the clown in some of the other forums, but when it comes to HVAC-R I know what I'm talking about.

Good luck, stay safe.

P.S all this is common to most 'Automobile A/C' not just an 80 series Land Cruiser.

Hey thanks! lots of good info. Yeah in the end I knew I would have to take to someone. But often here in Costa Rica you don't find very specialized mechanics. In this case the guy will probably do car and home AC and it is helpful when I show up with as much information as I can to help them. Even if he/she does not know this exact system as it's pretty rare, especially here, they will know much more then me and we will hopefully figure it out. While i had everything opened again the other day I had a guy just check to see that it was a bit low on refrigerant and may not have the pressure needed to open the valve for the fridge/freezer (he suspected that particular valve required more then the other two). I will take it to his shop soon where he will clean the system, use the vacuum pump, and charge it again. Adding oil is not something I heard him say, so I will ask about that. thanks!

 

[jibberjabber]

Hey thanks! lots of good info. Yeah in the end I knew I would have to take to someone. But often here in Costa Rica you don't find very specialized mechanics. In this case the guy will probably do car and home AC and it is helpful when I show up with as much information as I can to help them. Even if he/she does not know this exact system as it's pretty rare, especially here, they will know much more then me and we will hopefully figure it out. While i had everything opened again the other day I had a guy just check to see that it was a bit low on refrigerant and may not have the pressure needed to open the valve for the fridge/freezer (he suspected that particular valve required more then the other two). I will take it to his shop soon where he will clean the system, use the vacuum pump, and charge it again. Adding oil is not something I heard him say, so I will ask about that. thanks!

Your welcome Zach,

Oil is in the system to lubricate the internal moving parts of the compressor, likes I say, the oil mixes with the 134a so travels around the system in a gaseous form with the refrigerant.

Btw, how is Covid-19 affecting you all over there in CR?

If you need any more info just squawk.

Good Luck, hope everything works out for you, Stay Safe.

 

[jibberjabber]

Oil is often overlooked, by the good intent Diy'er when adding gas from one of the cans from your car parts shops, I have seen compressors seize because oil had not been replaced after work on the refrigerant side of the A/C.

 

[Tractionman]

Hi Zach,

I have over 40 years in HVAC-R (retired), and to be quite honest I think you are in over your head, I do not mean to be rude but I think you would be far better off taking you 80 to a certified Auto A/C engineer as the system is not as simple as you think, and you as a self confessed novice will end up doing more harm than good, granted it is only two pipes, and in your case, three inside evaporators, one condenser at the front and a compressor, sound simple enough doesn't it.

There are in your case three TEV's Thermal Expansion valves, one on each of the evaporators, i.e front, fridge, and rear, all controlled by a magnetic switch attached to each individual Expansion Valve, if any one of them needs to be replaced, or indeed any part of the refrigeration system, and when I say "refrigeration system" I mean any of the pipe work is opened, the system will need recharging, more special tool are needed for this, as the 134a refrigerant will need to be weighed in, but before this is done the system needs to be pressure tested with OFN 'Oxygen Free Nitrogen' then the system needs to be 'Evacuated' using another special tool called a 'Vac Pump', all this, and thats not to mention adding oil to the system, and changing the filter dryer.

BTW, this info is only part of the steps needed to test/repair a car A/C system. I don't know if there any regulations with regard to 'handling refrigerant' in your part of the world, but here in the UK there is a thing called 'F-Gas Reg's' witch spells out all the do's and dont's to do with Ozone depleting gases, and it's the law, with heavy penalties if you don't abide by the rules.

I am telling you all this so that you see that it's not a DIY job, and I don't want you to 'cock it up' as we say in the UK.

You have done a good job with regard to exposing the two evap's, so if you do take my advice and take you car to a A/C engineer that knows what he's doing, he won't need to charge you for the work you have already done.

As I say, there are some special tool that are needed, first and foremost but not limited to, are a set of gauge analyzers, that read 134a pressures and temperatures.

I hope this is of some help and insight, everything is easy if you know what your doing. Also a little knowledge dangerous. I may act the clown in some of the other forums, but when it comes to HVAC-R I know what I'm talking about.

Good luck, stay safe.

P.S all this is common to most 'Automobile A/C' not just an 80 series Land Cruiser.

JJ, I don't want to intrude on your expert help, which I know nothing about, except something which may be relavent to help our friend. Am I right in saying that is the 'old' gas system in there and will the 'new' rg be compatible after evacuation. I know the connections are different and not compatible. Could you enlarge please. As yourself I can be a joker, but I am serious in this. I can benefit from the education as well.

 

[jibberjabber]

JJ, I don't want to intrude on your expert help, which I know nothing about, except something which may be relavent to help our friend. Am I right in saying that is the 'old' gas system in there and will the 'new' rg be compatible after evacuation. I know the connections are different and not compatible. Could you enlarge please. As yourself I can be a joker, but I am serious in this. I can benefit from the education as well.

Hi Zach,

What was the year of manufacture of you friends car ? and what car is it ?

 

[Chris]

Does this only work when the engine is running or does it have an electric motor that runs from the car's batteries?

 

[Tractionman]

Hi Zach,

What was the year of manufacture of you friends car ? and what car is it ?

JJ , it's the OP, Zachs car, he just bought it. Obviously the year might help, but if the lc in his profile is anything to go by, I would think it has the old a/c gas system. I could be totally wrong of course.

 

[jibberjabber]

JJ , it's the OP, Zachs car, he just bought it. Obviously the year might help, but if the lc in his profile is anything to go by, I would think it has the old a/c gas system. I could be totally wrong of course.

Oppps, sorry my mistake, I thought it was Zach asking the question, in my defence, I was half asleep when I read the post this morning (some would say I'm half asleep all the time )

I'll answer your Q Tractionman.

I also didn't know that the 80 series was built from 1990 to 2008.
2008 – Last 80-Series models was built in Venezuela which was the only country producing the vehicles after production ended in Japan in 1997.

 

[jibberjabber]

Does this only work when the engine is running or does it have an electric motor that runs from the car's batteries?

Hi Chris,

If your referring to the fridge, you can see the fridge pipes in picture 2 & 3 so I would say it only works when the engine is running.

I think the rear A/C, as in the last picture, I'm not 100% sure about, but if I had to bet I'd say it's part of the refrigerant system, it looks very similar to the 100 series rear cooling system set up, apart from the 100's rear cooling was designed with the car, the one in this 80 looks like it was either a Toyota after thought or a aftermarket add on.

 

[Tractionman]

Oppps, sorry my mistake, I thought it was Zach asking the question, in my defence, I was half asleep when I read the post this morning (some would say I'm half asleep all the time )

I'll answer your Q Tractionman.

I also didn't know that the 80 series was built from 1990 to 2008.
2008 – Last 80-Series models was built in Venezuela which was the only country producing the vehicles after production ended in Japan in 1997.

In the words of Sgt. Wilson, "Thank you so much"

 

[jibberjabber]

JJ, I don't want to intrude on your expert help, which I know nothing about, except something which may be relavent to help our friend. Am I right in saying that is the 'old' gas system in there and will the 'new' rg be compatible after evacuation. I know the connections are different and not compatible. Could you enlarge please. As yourself I can be a joker, but I am serious in this. I can benefit from the education as well.

Good point.

Thats someting I forgot to ask Zach,

Are we talking about a R12 or an R134a system? I never thought to ask as it's been a long time since R12 has been in use, of course the 80 had a couple of years when it would have had R12 used in the A/C cooling system, as in most of the world production ran from 1990-1997, R12 was completely banned from production by 1996 under the Montreal Protocol for depleting the ozone. Most car manufacturers stopped using R12 in around about 1992 well before the total ban came into force.

I will admit, when I say I have been in HVAC-R for 40 years, that has been in commercial Air-Conditioning not Auto Air-Con, but the principles are the same when it comes to using a compressor in a refrigeration system, so everything I have stated in previous posts still stands, apart from the the type of refrigerant and oil used.

The process for using/updating a car cooling system with regard to refrigeration A/C from R12 to R134a is not an easy process as ther are many rubber parts in a car system that have to be changed, and the oils are not compatible as used in a R12 and R134a system, there are what is called in the trade 'Drop in' refrigerants but they are expensive, so the limiting factors are time/labour and gas costs.

So, to answer you question, no it's not just a matter of 'evacuating' a system that has been used with R12 and then recharging with the more mordern R134a.

Yes, you are right in saying the connection are different for the guage line to fit to from R12 to R134a, but the connections can be retro fitted.

I would also like to add, R134a is not the most 'up to date' Refrigerant used in cars A/C cooling, R1234yf has been in use since 2011. So there will be a cross over point in the 200 series range up for debate at some time in the future.

Hope all my ramblings make a little sense.