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80 Series Rebuild

I use the fishing scales and set the bearings using rotational torque.
 
What sort of figures do you look for using that method?
 
Chris does it the correct way, and one day ill invest in a set, but im still doing it the old fashioned way by feel. New bearings will bed in so will need checking again.

They can be nipped up again with the wheel still on.
 
Once you have done a few (dozen) times you get to know what the feel is like. So there's no issue with doing it that way at all. The book says something like 7 to 12 lbs from memory. I have found though that if you do this properly then even with new bearings they don't need adjusting again. OK so that probably came out wrong. But when you buy a brand new Cruiser, you don't take it back after 100 miles to have the bearings nipped up do you.

I tend to slightly over tighten, spin the hub back and forth to settle the bearings then start to back them off to get the right readings rather then tighten them to get the reading if you get me. I have gone back after 20K miles and got the same readings on hubs done this way. The FSM doesn't say over tighten then work back, but then that was written along time ago when these vehicles were new. I think that with age, miles and bodging, simply using a torque wrench on the 54mm nut isn't the way to go. I've had tight nuts (ooer) that haven't actually nipped the bearing due to damaged threads and whatnot. Rotational torque whether measured or felt is the best way in my book. The electronic fishing scales were £5 from Hong Kong by the way.
 
Did the ones on mine the same way I do on the trucks most days (just on a smaller scale) give them a nip to get them seated then knock them off until no play and not feeling tight. Touch wood they'e all been alright up to now
 
Declan, looks good. What did you end up doing with the axles (painting etc.)
Luv to have a large shed to go do all my bits...
where u based (I'm in Athenry)
 
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Once you have done a few (dozen) times you get to know what the feel is like. So there's no issue with doing it that way at all. The book says something like 7 to 12 lbs from memory. I have found though that if you do this properly then even with new bearings they don't need adjusting again. OK so that probably came out wrong. But when you buy a brand new Cruiser, you don't take it back after 100 miles to have the bearings nipped up do you.

I tend to slightly over tighten, spin the hub back and forth to settle the bearings then start to back them off to get the right readings rather then tighten them to get the reading if you get me. I have gone back after 20K miles and got the same readings on hubs done this way. The FSM doesn't say over tighten then work back, but then that was written along time ago when these vehicles were new. I think that with age, miles and bodging, simply using a torque wrench on the 54mm nut isn't the way to go. I've had tight nuts (ooer) that haven't actually nipped the bearing due to damaged threads and whatnot. Rotational torque whether measured or felt is the best way in my book. The electronic fishing scales were £5 from Hong Kong by the way.


Thanks Chris I’ll set them up like this and check them again after a few miles on the road.
 
Declan, looks good. What did you end up doing with the axles (painting etc.)
Luv to have a large shed to go do all my bits...
where u based (I'm in Athenry)

Haven’t decided on paint for the axles yet, have them treated with rust converter stuff and painted with a red primer just to see if any spots show up before I do finally paint them. Might end up using hammerite or something similar. I’m based in Kildare
 
So got a small bit more done today, painted the front axle and fitted the new mintex disks.
Thought the rebuild kit I ordered came with the new 54mm nuts and spacers but it didn’t should have them in a few days to finish it off totally.
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Fitted some of the bushes, the others will be pressed in next week at some stage.
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Also had a look at the rear diff lock, seemed to be practically new on the inside with no wear marks or corrosion. The rear axle oil was also like new so maybe the previous owner already had a look over it.
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So the new nuts and spacers came this morning. Got them fitted and torqued up and checked using the weighing scales for turning force, all within the tolerances so going to check again after a few km’s on the road.

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Got the new callipers and pads fitted too just to finish it off!

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Also had a bit of a struggle removing the track rod ends but they eventually all came free

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Got my tires mounted up, happy with how they look!
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This is how the front axle is now, radius arms and track rod fitted, will hopefully be going back in shortly! What diff oil would ye recommend? Thinking of 85-90 synthetic?
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It is really good to this level of rebuild, I’m rather envious and a bit ashamed at the same time.

I don’t suppose the supplier of those BFG AT KO2s has them in 305/70/16.... by chance?
 
Looking good Declan.
Some good work going on there, all looks good. Them new bfg’s do look good. I’ve just had some fitted to my lc120 and now want them on the 80. Trouble is they aren’t even half worn yet.

Cheers, Mark
 
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So I had this centre diff lock switch laying around so decided to fit it, this is the way the plug was behind the dash, I presume it came like this from the factory?
 
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