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80 series - starting issues - looking for suggestions

You can do a free battery test on your own. Turn the key and if the voltage drops the battery is defective.at assumes it has been on charge for a long time so it is not just a bit flat. The stater motor is acting as the drop tester.


True Frank to a degree however, this is not a 'stalled' starter so the results will not be accurate. Once the engine starts to spin the 'load' on the batteries falls. A fixed load is needed to get an accurate reading, this topic can go around and around but the outcome will always be the same, a known fixed load is the only way to get a genuine and guaranteed test of a car battery.

Regards

Dave
 
Soooo... quick update - left the truck for a week or so and the OS battery had dropped to 12.3V, NS was still holding 12.7V.

Checked the date of the batteries and they were fitted around 8 years ago, so I guess they were about due for replacement. We bit the bullet and fitted a new pair of matched batteries - the old OS battery will go off for recycling and the NS one will get fired into the back of the garage as a spare.

So far so go - will report back again if the problem persists!

Thanks again for the help and advice.
 
Soooo... quick update - left the truck for a week or so and the OS battery had dropped to 12.3V, NS was still holding 12.7V.

Checked the date of the batteries and they were fitted around 8 years ago, so I guess they were about due for replacement. We bit the bullet and fitted a new pair of matched batteries - the old OS battery will go off for recycling and the NS one will get fired into the back of the garage as a spare.

So far so go - will report back again if the problem persists!

Thanks again for the help and advice.
I can't remember if you have a VSR or you have the standard 24 volt setup? If stock 24 volts then I would keep and eye on them for a couple of weeks, two batteries in parallel should have the same readings, or perhaps a 10th of a volt difference? Any more would indicate a connection issue.

Good to see all is well, but just do the check once the new batteries have had time to settle down, remember new batteries are not fully charged when they leave the shop.

Regards

Dave
 
Thanks Dave. Yep, still standard 24v start up system. Fingers crossed all good at the moment, but as you suggest I will check things over in a week or two.
 
Sounds like you've probably nailed it now.
A bad battery or even a weak/damaged cell can unbalance or discharge the pair.
Replacing both for new is always a good idea anyway.
 
My LC 4.2d is 12v run & 24v start so the left hand battery is disconected in the engine ture position and the live goes to the starter and the (-) goes to the (+) of the other batery... so earthing this battery would had bad results.
I had a (-)battery lead lead on the left battery that sometimes contacted the bonet, not a problem until starting.
Luckily i noticed the problem before killing the batterys or worse!
 
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Update: no further issues, even when left parked up for a week or more, including during the recent ice and snow, so I think we're all good - just a dodgy (and aged) battery! All the best guys (and Merry Christmas!).
 
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