80 series washer pump wiring

[Chris]

Chaps, I fitted some tripppple squirters recently and whilst quite jolly, the old pump just couldn't give enough pressure to make them useful. So I decided to fit another modern in line pump. Now, I have rigged it so I know it works and it blasts the windscreen even when it's dragging through the old pump which I disconnected. The plan is to have both running. I have put the pump in, wired with it's own relay and a fused supply. All good. I thought I'd simply take a spur off the feed wire to the original pump so when I press the button on the stalk, the pump runs, fires the relay and the big boy runs too. Sound logic?

OK so I identified the three old pumps, headlights, screen and rear screen. Forget the lamp washer it totally separate. Both remaining motors had two wires each. One commonly coloured which I took to be the return and one similar coded but different coloured wire which I took to be the feed. I tapped in and fired it up. Well all sorts happened. The wipers wouldn't park, the new motor ran without me pressing the stalk button it was crazy. So I figured that it must be the other one - swapped the tap over and got even more weirdness. I reinstated the original wires and every does work fine. I figured that as the whole tank was plastic it would need a physical earth connection. I get car electrics to a basic degree and kinda understand testing. But what's really difficult is when you have to hold a wire, push the tester probe in, read the screen and be in the driver's seat at the same time! Not easy.

Any thoughts on how the system works? Going to dig out the wiring diag, but sometimes they make little sense. I do not want a switch on the dash to operate the washers. Just to reiterate, with everything wired and plumbed in, if I fire the relay from the battery with a flying lead, the new pump works perfectly - it's not a wiring issue as far as I can see. I really can wire up a relay.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

They are switched on the negative side Chris but you should be able to just connect both wires to the relay i.e. one to one relay coil terminal and the other to the other coil terminal, won't matter which way round. One will provide IGN+ whenever the key is in the IGN position and the other will go -ve when the squirter switch is used but you really don't care which is which or rather the relay doesn't

 

[Chris]

Jon I would never have worked that out! So two separate tap wires from the original two pump wires to the low tension (as I call it) sides of the relay. So I don't need the earth wire from the relay to the car then? It's a closed system?

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

You don't need the earth, that is what the squirter switch is supplying.

You can either connect one side of the relay coil to IGN+ somewhere else and the other to the wire at the existing pump that does NOT show +VE on the meter with the ignition switched on (no need to be pressing the squirter button at the same time ) OR just connect both wires and no earth required for the relay coil either way.

It just depends which is the easiest source of +VE which depends on where the relay is sited relative to the existing pump.

 

[Chris]

The washer, new pump, relay and main power feed are all right next to each other. I shall find a bit of twin cable and make things easier by running the one wire from old pump wires to new relay.

Thanks Jon, should only take a couple of mins. Everything else is fitted.

Chris

 

[Chris]

Well that didn't go quite to plan Jon. In short it didn't work. I pulled the plug and put a meter on it. With the ignition on, one wire gives not much, but it does flicker a bit (this is contact to earth by the way) and the other bounces all over the place. I managed to put the probes in the plug and push the washer button and got the same really. Certainly not a steady 12.49v or anything. Yet when plugged in, the washer works as it always did. It's not firing the new relay that's for sure. Clearly I am missing something.

I hate it when I don't understand what's in the wires!

One of the wires (with ign on should have 12v) in it and the other nothing yes? With the plug unplugged. When I plug it back on, that 12v has a path through the motor back to the button, but only when the button is pressed making the circuit to earth so that it flows through the motor. I am anywhere near right with that?

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I am anywhere near right with that?

Yes, that's how it should be according to the EWD. Even if the EWD is wrong, if the pump only has 2 wires then if you connect both of them to the relay coil it shouldn't matter how the pump is being switched - if the pump has power the relay coil would have power ...

 

[Chris]

And that makes me wonder if the pump gets power somewhere else and is switched by this plug. Not a very Toyota thing to do I know. I pulled the water tank out, pretty much and couldn't see anything else. It has a rather strange and large hose that disappears into the wing. I really have no idea what that's for. It's about 1 1/2" dia.

OK Jon, here's a daft thought. Could these simply be signal wires to the windscreen wipers? So that when you wash, they cut in? The pump doesn't run if the plug is disconnected though.

Thought this would be easy. For a change.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Quite a low current application so I can't see them making it any more complicated and that's not what the EWD shows. Blue wire should be +VE with the ignition on. You are testing the right side of the connector aren't you?

P.S. the big pipe is to the other half of the washer reservoir in the wing.

 

[Chris]

Always worth checking when dealing with an idiot, Jon. Yes, I am testing the plug with the wires coming out of the loom. And the meter is set to volts 20 DC range. I shall have another go at lunch one I have cleaned the plugs up a bit. They are fairly caked. But where I have tapped into the cable, the connection seems good to me.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

It's a bit tight in there, I did have a look to see if I could test mine but looks like the fuse box needs unbolting to get at the connector and it might still be a bit difficult to get at?

 

[Chris]

OK, had another look. Yes BTW I took the fuse box off, dead easy. One bolt and a clip. Well after a clean up, I seem to get 11v in on end and 10v in the other end with ign on. Huh? Good news is that I have fond the problem I think. I pulled the connection off the patch lead and reckon that there wasn't continuity Jon. I hate Scotchlocks they are the Devil's Haemorrhoids in my view. But on this occasion I figured it wouldn't hurt. Well the claw seems not to have cut through the sheath. I will cut the plug off and put a proper connection in one I have proved the concept. Still don't understand what's happening in the plug, but as long as it works, I shall draw a line under it.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I seem to get 11v in on end and 10v in the other end with ign on.

Is that with the OEM pump connected or disconnected?

 

[Chris]

Disconnected Jon. However, it's all working now! Proper connections, not blue plastic clips. Twin pumps, triple jets. Blasting nicely.

Thanks for sorting it.


Chris

 

[Andrew Brierley]

Hi Chris, which jets & pumps did you use, and where did you get them from?

Tx

 

[Chris]

The jets are the much talked about Toyota triple squirters. I don't have a part number to hand. And the pump came from VWP - Vehicle Wiring Products. I made a bracket, mounted the pump on the inner wing by the ABS pump, cut the pipe and put the pump in line. Fed the pump with a new fused line from the battery and then took two taps from the original motor to the relay. Then when you press the button, the old pump feeds the new one. Now it's not going to cut slashes in your windscreen, but it's pretty good. Added to this, I used a couple of meters of clear washer pipe on the end of the new pump which I wound around the black heater hose and then onto the bonnet connection. What happens is that this works as a heat exchanger and I get heated, triple, boosted washer jets. Cleaning is so much more effective with warm washer fluid.

Chris

 

[Andrew Brierley]

Many thanks

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

sounds like an interesting mod. Are those the 100 series tripple squirters with the pipe connection pointing the wrong way, or something else? Hopefully the 100 series ones because I have some of those

 

[Chris]

Jon, I have to admit I haven't the faintest idea. I do have the part number in the workshop. Can't say they were strange in any way.

Chris

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Are you going to keep the part number a secret or tell us?