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96 colorado clutch wont disengage

ben22

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Joined
Dec 23, 2022
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7
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uk
on a drive i went to down shift and suddenly couldnt get into any gear, i managed to get home by rev matching to change gear, i got hold of a new slave cylinder and have just installed and bled it this evening but still no change (i noticed fluid in the boot of the old slave cylinder when removing it) next step i guess is to change the master cylinder, then if not fixed take the transmission off and new clutch, i can see the clutch fork is moving an inch or slightly more when the pedal is pressed, could it be that it isnt bled properly and just needs that little bit extra travel? anything else i could look at before i get into taking it apart further, i hear there are two different kinds of clutches based on the flywheel if/when i get that far, or could the transmission be goosed?
 
yes, no difference in low lock or high lock or high
 
Penetrating oil aerosol with a straw in the fork hole is about the only thing i can think of to try .
 
I think theres some adjustment above the pedal that might be worth messing with ?
 
i have tried to unwind the threaded rod between the master cylinder and the pedal, this didnt fix it, i have then installed a new master cylinder and re-bled, still no luck, i will try adjust the threaded rod on the new master cyinder, unwinding the threaded rod only seemed to make the pedel harder to press, im starting to think the thrust bearing has collapsed because i can see the pressure plate is being pressed only slightly, but there is more space in the bell housing hole behind the clutch fork for the clutch fork to move further, so maybe still not bled properly, its looking more and more like im going to have to drop the gearbox
 
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i think you were right about the penetrating oil, i have sprayed half a can of wd40 through the hole and bumped the truck backwards and forwards for a while, things seem to be freeing up, but it does keep sticking after a while, will repeat the process tomorrow, i maybe just wasted a hundred quid on a new master and slave, oh well
 
i swear it only started sounding like that when i filmed that video, but it clearly needed lubricating, i think i discounted corrosion because the problem started so suddenly:icon-biggrin:
 
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WD-40 is water based so won't last long at all but "penetrating" to get it shifting again and once your sure its free i'd use chain lube .
 
For peace of mind I would drop the gearbox/Transfer box (separately, unless you have a lift and a lot of help).

Then check the release bearing, the release arm pivot and most of all the splines on the input shaft. I prefer 'Optimol TA' to 'Copper Slip' but make sure the splines are clean and lubricated. The release bearing pushes in the clutch spring fingers but if the plate is seized on the input shaft its going to drag !

I would also change the little pilot bearing while you're in there.

Once done, you can forget it for five years.

New master & slave = more peace of mind :thumbup: .

Bob.
 
You would Bob but us mere mortals will just be glad it works again and hope for another year before we have to replace the clutch :lol:
 
WD40 water based ?
Just had a look on mine, no mention of that, but says it displaces water, amongst other things.
 
Lots of types now but i the worked out the original was water based years ago when it wouldn't lubricate a combo boiler fan for more than half hour , just dried out .
 
It was actually some stuff called ac90 I was using, went for a 2 hour drive yesterday, its shifting, but still a little notchy, now im getting some clutch slip if I floor it, hopefully it will burn off
 
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