A440F auto cable adjustment

[Bat21]

I have an early 92 80 auto with the A440F none computer controlled box, the shift pattern is L-2-3-D-N-R-P... there is no overdrive button.

Does anyone know the correct adjustment for the kickdown cable? The owners manual only shows the adjustment for the solenoid controlled A442 box.

I have tried adjusting it the same as the 442 but she doesn't seem to kick down quick enough when going up hill. If I adjust it so there is more gap then she 'clunks' when shifting up

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

RM184E should be showing how to do it for your box as it covers those older gearbox's, is that what you're looking at? Also, it's not a kick down cable, it's a throttle position sensor cable it doesn't just communicate the need for kickdown, it also helps control the hydraulic pressure used on the clutch plates during gear changes according to how much right foot you're giving it i.e. low pressure for a soft change on low throttle, high pressure for a firm change on larger throttle opening.

You may find the lazy kick down is partly due to your big tyres which throws out the gearbox programming which is matched to OEM gearing.

 

[Bat21]

RM184E should be showing how to do it for your box as it covers those older gearbox's, is that what you're looking at? Also, it's not a kick down cable, it's a throttle position sensor cable it doesn't just communicate the need for kickdown, it also helps control the hydraulic pressure used on the clutch plates during gear changes according to how much right foot you're giving it i.e. low pressure for a soft change on low throttle, high pressure for a firm change on larger throttle opening.

You may find the lazy kick down is partly due to your big tyres which throws out the gearbox programming which is matched to OEM gearing.

Thanks John, I've just downloaded the manual but it just gives the one setting of 0.5-1.5mm from stop to rubber boot so, I guess it must be the same for the 440/442 boxes.

When climbing large hills if I don't manually shift into 3rd she is down to crawling pace by the time we reach the top

I'm sure I have read somewhere that D on the 440 boxes is the same as OD on the 442's so, maybe shifting to 3rd is like switching off the OD

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

When climbing large hills if I don't manually shift into 3rd she is down to crawling pace by the time we reach the top

A diff regear would help with that by giving you some of your lost gearing back and also a better match with the gearbox programming.

 

[callum]

http://www.sleeoffroad.com/products/products_speedo.htm

this might help

 

[Bat21]

Now I'm getting even more confused.

RM184E says there should be a 0.5-1.5mm gap between the stopper and the boot when the throttle is closed and 32-34mm when the throttle is fully open. It doesn't seem to list any difference from the 440 to 442 boxes so I assume they are the same.

The 'problem' I have is, when throttle fully open the gap on mine is only 25mm and there is no way of altering this if the 0.5-1.5mm gap is set when throttle fully closed... am I missing something

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I've never messed with one of the older ones to know if that's normal Paul but if it was me I'd adjust it to the point where gear changes feel correct i.e. no clunk on an off power up-shift and no flare on a powered kick down and take it that's as good as it gets. The electronicly controlled ones can seem slugish to kick down as well with big tyres and standard gearing.

 

[Bat21]

....if it was me I'd adjust it to the point where gear changes feel correct i.e. no clunk on an off power up-shift and no flare on a powered kick down and take it that's as good as it gets. The electronicly controlled ones can seem slugish to kick down as well with big tyres and standard gearing.

Thanks John, I think that is a good plan.

I did have it adjusted to 1mm on closed throttle before the trip. During the trip I adjusted it to improve the down change on the hills but, this introduced a clunk on off power up-shifts.

Back to the 1mm gap and manually shift down on the hills seems the best option me thinks.

 

[coolbest]

....if it was me I'd adjust it to the point where gear changes feel correct i.e. no clunk on an off power up-shift and no flare on a powered kick down and take it that's as good as it gets. The electronicly controlled ones can seem slugish to kick down as well with big tyres and standard gearing.

Thanks John, I think that is a good plan.

I did have it adjusted to 1mm on closed throttle before the trip. During the trip I adjusted it to improve the down change on the hills but, this introduced a clunk on off power up-shifts.

Back to the 1mm gap and manually shift down on the hills seems the best option me thinks.

I'm having very similar issues with my gearbox also. Is it ok to shift gear leaver to position "3" while moving? And then back into "D"? I would hate to do any damage to the gearbox...

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I'm having very similar issues with my gearbox also. Is it ok to shift gear leaver to position "3" while moving? And then back into "D"? I would hate to do any damage to the gearbox...

Yes, you can shift through any of the forward gears on the move (L-2-3-D), as Paul noted further up the thread, shifting from D to 3 on the older box is just like turning off OD on the A442F.