A442F transmission temps

[Michael Montgomery]

Guys today change the long awaited filter for the gearbox whilst its been a concern with the temp gauge showing temps on the highway up to 110-120c to which seems high to me. Changing the filter made some change whilst topping up the oil level to around 112c on my run home but seems still high.

Please bear in mind I have taped into the return valve line with a sensor after cooling with VDO parts.

Having read online normal temps should be 92c but not sure the accuracy to this and having a 24 year transmission wear and tear factor I share this and hope to learn more from your guys and your experience.

Do I need a extra radiator cooler or is this pretty normal?

Thanks

 

[Lorin]

Yes, you absolutely do. Those temps are not healthy at all. Ideal running temp is around 80C . Another worthwhile upgrade is to switch to a fully synthetic fluid such as Castrol Transmax Z. Wholesale Autos in Oz advise fitting the biggest cooler you can. This should be run downstream of the OEM cooler.

Is your radiator in good shape? The OEM cooler in the bottom of the radiator can lose efficiency with sludge build up. Probably worth properly flushing your rad if it hasn’t been done or replaced.

 

[Lorin]

Also, if I understand correctly, you’re taking the temperature after the OEM cooler...? If so, it shouldn’t be anywhere near that high. That is a high temperature even if it was straight out of the gearbox let alone after the cooler.

Best placement for a transmission temperature sensor is in the hot line where it exits the gearbox - this is a relatively accurate indicator of your actual transmission temp.

 

[Lorin]

I had significant transmission temperature issues for a while with it often running over 100C on the motorway and easily heading north of 120C if not locked up. I did a full fluid change to the Transmax Z, fitted a new OEM radiator and fitted a large transmission cooler. My temps now rarely exceed 80C unless worked very hard and then come back down quickly. Cruising on the motorway is now typically about 60-70C when locked up.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Lorin I agree with you been on my mind for a while now since fitting my temp gauge.

I do use fully synthetic always.

My radiator is under 2 years old now.

I did fit the VDO sensor to the return line on the gearbox instead of the exit line as this had OEM sensor already most likely for the light on the dash.

Next job certainly like you shared is to check out the oil cooler for blockages to which my mechanic had mentioned before too.

Then access the likelihood of fitting a Oil radiator for the front. The petrol models have an OEM one so may be best to get that and fit being that should be plug and play I’m thinking. There 13 row I believe.

What was the size of yours?

Thanks

 

[SeaJay]

do you see it drop back to 60-80c once the converter locks up?

 

[Lorin]

do you see it drop back to 60-80c once the converter locks up?

Mine rarely gets above 80C at all. With the converter locked the temp is often 60C or lower. If temps do go above 80C they drop quickly once the converter locks up and usually settle around the 60C mark if on the motorway or lower if speeds are less.

 

[SeaJay]

Mine rarely gets above 80C at all. With the converter locked the temp is often 60C or lower. If temps do go above 80C they drop quickly once the converter locks up and usually settle around the 60C mark if on the motorway or lower if speeds are less.

that's about what it should be doing, I am wondering if there is a problem with his lock up

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Update guys.

Today spent my time and energy to undo and flush out the oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator. Although relatively new clearly some debris blocked it somewhat and now free flowing.

Added another 1 liter of transmission oil and test drove home some 45 mins on a already hot gearbox through testing.

Result sadly little to no change temps were 117c although temps did rise slower showing cooling had improved. None the less my cousin the mechanic informed me of the bad news. The torque converter has gone. He says it’s not locking up hence the heat and certainly driving it gonna use more fuel.

Not sure how but did send the torque converter to the uk for a rebuild some years ago whilst having the engine overhauled but clearly wasn’t lasting.

Now on the hunt for a replacement it would seem using the codes on the vehicle.

The good thing is having a temp gauge has shown these issues for not sure how long they have been there prior.

Live and learn

 

[Michael Montgomery]

P.s i'm thinking could it be an electronic issue certainly need to investigate somehow.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Upon doing some research it seems there should be a electronic transmission unit in the dash that may be faulty so first port of call is to take this out and get it looked at. Fingers crossed this could be the fix

 

[bandsnbrakes]

Upon doing some research it seems there should be a electronic transmission unit in the dash that may be faulty so first port of call is to take this out and get it looked at. Fingers crossed this could be the fix

View attachment 156741 View attachment 156742

I doubt it they hardly ever go wrong. Where did you have the converter rebuilt?

 

[bandsnbrakes]

Upon doing some research it seems there should be a electronic transmission unit in the dash that may be faulty so first port of call is to take this out and get it looked at. Fingers crossed this could be the fix

View attachment 156741 View attachment 156742

Ive had a lot of trouble with rebuilt converters on this gearbox.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Ive had a lot of trouble with rebuilt converters on this gearbox.

Had it rebuilt late in the year 2014 by

http://jpat.co.uk/torque-converter-remanfacture.html

Not sure tbh and looking at all options.

First I've heard of rebuilt ones being worse off.

Thanks

 

[Lorin]

Not saying it couldn’t happen but I’ve not heard of a control unit failure. Torque converters do fail and heat in particular can kill them. IIRC there is also a lock-up solenoid.

 

[bandsnbrakes]

Had it rebuilt late in the year 2014 by

http://jpat.co.uk/torque-converter-remanfacture.html

Not sure tbh and looking at all options.

First I've heard of rebuilt ones being worse off.

Thanks

Had it rebuilt late in the year 2014 by

http://jpat.co.uk/torque-converter-remanfacture.html

Not sure tbh and looking at all options.

First I've heard of rebuilt ones being worse off.

Thanks

you have a PM thankyou.

 

[SeaJay]

have a look thru the "A442F testing and adjustments" in the download section of this forum. You said you have just done the trans filter(just a screen actually) was it blocked and a lot of crap in the bottom of the pan? if so that may indicate the lock up clutch in the converter has gone. If not I would be trying to see if the lock up getting triggered, first look at the trans wiring plug in the loom near the starter motor, unplug it and check for corrosion(total prick to get to) If that's ok drop the pan on the trans and check the solenoid.

 

[Michael Montgomery]

have a look thru the "A442F testing and adjustments" in the download section of this forum. You said you have just done the trans filter(just a screen actually) was it blocked and a lot of crap in the bottom of the pan? if so that may indicate the lock up clutch in the converter has gone. If not I would be trying to see if the lock up getting triggered, first look at the trans wiring plug in the loom near the starter motor, unplug it and check for corrosion(total prick to get to) If that's ok drop the pan on the trans and check the solenoid.

No crap shown or came out of the filter looked new although been 7 years with me not changed and prior on the previous owner so changed thinking it could be that.

Certainly can put it up on the lift and check the wiring plug although this vehicle being from japan / Cyprus is really clean no rust on the underbody.

The solinodes less likely as my mechanic says but certainly if opening the gearbox out to change the converter all’s gonna be checked and tested.

Thanks

 

[Michael Montgomery]

Not saying it couldn’t happen but I’ve not heard of a control unit failure. Torque converters do fail and heat in particular can kill them. IIRC there is also a lock-up solenoid.

You're most likely right there Lorin 99% its the convertor gone wrong so needing to source a replacement sooner than later now just in the middle if summer when needing and using the vehicle the most now.

Thanks

 

[SeaJay]

No crap shown or came out of the filter looked new although been 7 years with me not changed and prior on the previous owner so changed thinking it could be that.

Certainly can put it up on the lift and check the wiring plug although this vehicle being from japan / Cyprus is really clean no rust on the underbody.

The solinodes less likely as my mechanic says but certainly if opening the gearbox out to change the converter all’s gonna be checked and tested.

Thanks

some times the plug gets corrosion inside on the pins from small coolant leaks from the heater hoses