About to buy first 200 series - advice request!

[Brett]

Hi all, I'm a long time member who hasn't posted in a while.

As said, I'm about to buy a 200, I'm in the UK so only the V8 diesel is available. I have a bit of a dilemma choosing between 2 cruisers I've narrowed my search down to.

1st, and I feel favourite is a low mileage, super clean 2008 model in silver. It has perfect Full Toyota service history. Is immaculate inside and out, MOT history is great with no worrying advisories, 2 owner car that's been looked after and had an easy life by the looks of it.

2nd choice is a green 2011, this one is a 1 owner car, 10000 miles less than the silver. Has a few age related upgrades over the earlier truck.

That's where the good bits end, exterior is scruffy, mainly brush pinstripes but needs paint on the tailgate and has deep scratches in a couple of places. Broken sidestep, scabby alloys and interior is a bit dirty. Service wise, it's fully serviced, but last 3 are not Toyota, independent garage. It looks to me it was a farm managers truck and a bit neglected, intercooler is clogged with leaves and dirt, engine covered in dust, and on the MOT history, a few advisorys like tyres worn down with cord showing, brake pads down to 1.5mm, side window broken. All pointing to previous owner not caring for it too much.

Both cars drive really well. I'm leaning more towards the early one, but is the 2011 Model Year a better option, The garage are offering to correct most of the issues I've highlighted?

Thanks guys, and sorry for the long first post in the 200 forum. PS, I already own a 1HD-FT 80 series, DD is a Hilux, so know Toyota's fairly well.

 

[Higgy]

Poor old Raj bought a super clean 200 series.... And it was riddled with rust, So id start there first....Have a real good poke around underneath... As with all Land cruisers over 3yrs old Check for rust The rest of it is Aesthetics and cosmetics.... Good luck with you search

 

[Brett]

Hi Jiggy, yes I read Raj's post. I'm waiting on photos of the underside which I should get this week, when I viewed both cars, looking just under, without crawling underneath, the earlier truck looked better. Light surface spots on the chassis, welds, same as my Hilux and underside covers were a bit rusty. Later truck had more spots on chassis side rails visible from wheel arches.

 

[Higgy]

Jiggy! I like that.... Joking apart even newish vehicles rust, Quick story, Mates Landrover got written off, So he hired a brand new Mitsi 200 Barbarian thingy with 9miles on the clock.. It was rusting Underneath.... We couldnt believe our eyes... It must have come out the factory like it

 

[Brett]

Sorry Higgy! Slip of the thumb. The manufacturers don't want cars to last, not a good business model unfortunately!

 

[GeekOKent]

Buy the car in a better shape. Based on your description that's the silver one!

 

[Brett]

Definitely the way I'm leaning. Just waiting on a couple of things to be confirmed.

 

[chapel gate]

dont sell the 80 just yet...

 

[Brett]

I'm not, the Hilux daily driver is the one I'm selling!

 

[chapel gate]

good man.

 

[Jake the Peg]

Having done a little bit of sales prep on a friends 200, and 2 others still owning theirs, I would advise a thorough check underneath especially the AHC components and pipework that run along between the chassis and sills, these are likely to be corroded. Be aware if they have been gunked over to hide the rust. Look up under the rear bumper for corrosion, round the axles and suspension components. Check the exhaust tail pipes, these really should have little to no soot build up if the EGR is working correctly, one of the trucks I know has had both cylinder heads replaced due to this, this was a 10k£ repair, if you remove the dipstick or oil filler cap while the engine is running you will likely have quite a lot of fumes, a catch can modification is highly recommend by the guys I know. This same truck has had suspension failure, and has been converted to conventional spring/shock but the owner says it’s not as comfortable as before. This was done just out of warranty period from new, and is a well looked after truck
all the other usual checks, all electrics work, bodywork condition, interior condition will give you an idea on how it’s been looked after. They are a nice truck to drive with decent power and comfort.

 

[Raj]

Brett, I should have joined a bit earlier before looking at the cars. I thought club is only for owners so joined after finalising the purchase. But better I got lot of support here n now car is back with me . If you are nearby n want to test drive another year 200 before buying, feel free to take my car for a drive.

 

[Brett]

Thanks Jake for the detailed reply. That's great info. I've looked at 3 so far and all breathe quite a lot with the oil filler cap removed, I've read this is normal for this engine. The three I've looked at range from under 70 to just over 100k.

Good tip on the exhaust, I'll check that. Also the AHC, I saw Raj's video. I'd rather keep the AHC if possible.

 

[Brett]

That's a really nice offer Raj, thanks very much. I'm in Norfolk, so probably not feasible, as nobody lives here!

 

[Towpack]

Having done a little bit of sales prep on a friends 200, and 2 others still owning theirs, I would advise a thorough check underneath especially the AHC components and pipework that run along between the chassis and sills, these are likely to be corroded. Be aware if they have been gunked over to hide the rust. Look up under the rear bumper for corrosion, round the axles and suspension components. Check the exhaust tail pipes, these really should have little to no soot build up if the EGR is working correctly, one of the trucks I know has had both cylinder heads replaced due to this, this was a 10k£ repair, if you remove the dipstick or oil filler cap while the engine is running you will likely have quite a lot of fumes, a catch can modification is highly recommend by the guys I know. This same truck has had suspension failure, and has been converted to conventional spring/shock but the owner says it’s not as comfortable as before. This was done just out of warranty period from new, and is a well looked after truck
all the other usual checks, all electrics work, bodywork condition, interior condition will give you an idea on how it’s been looked after. They are a nice truck to drive with decent power and comfort.

It's sad really that you should have to worry about issues like this on such a new model. Some of these things, especially the corrosion, are what you might expect to find on a 20+ year old 80/100 series.

 

[Brett]

I know, one of them I said to the seller wasn't as good as the 80 series chassis for corrosion. The 200 chassis is much stronger and heavier construction as well. Seems sort of pointless building it like that, then not giving it decent surface protection. I guess for Toyotas main markets for the Cruisers, that's not really a concern.

 

[Brett]

Also Jake, am already considering fitting a provent 200

 

[chapel gate]

all toyota diesels have back pressure. its why they have a pcv of some description fitted, as long as its even and doesnt "chug".

 

[Raj]

provent 200

Brett what is this. From Australia videos I thought diesel pre filter is important but a garage told I don’t need it in UK

 

[chapel gate]

the EGR causes the problems of gunking up the intake side. whilst an engine breathing in warm oily air may not be desirable, it doesnt seem to cause any problems.

this is from a 1HD T with over 300000 miles on the clock: