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ABS Light

Andy Harvey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2010
Messages
343
Long time since I've been on here, my 100 series has just worked faultlessly apart from my last big expense with the suspension pipe bursting on the O/S rear. 264K miles and going strong. However....

I'm after some suggestions. My ABS light comes on but only if I turn hard left, doesn't come on if I turn hard right. I've replaced both front sensors last year and tested them today and both OK. Now I know my steering is noisy (I have a new power steering pump to fit at some point and I was wondering if the Power steering pump also provides the hydraulics for the ABS system or is that provided by something else. Am I looking in completely the wrong direction. Does the ABS pump actually provide all the hydraulic pressure for the ABS or is it pressurised by the Steering pump?.

I'm at a loss at the moment. I did have problems with the sensors when the C clip that holds the drive shaft into the hub came off and the shaft was moving in the hub but for the life of me I can't think what it could be and I'm hoping it's not the ABS pump unit.

The brakes work really well and I can drive for miles without the ABS light being on if I don't have to turn too much hard left, it will be OK if I don't have to turn it onto the steering stop on the left.

Andy Ideas anyone?.

Cheers
Andy
 
You have a loose wheel bearing, is my guess.
 
When you say ABS pump, you probably mean the brake booster. It is separate from the steering pump, and it is one of the more sensitive parts of the 100, as it is crucial for safe braking. The brake booster gets worn out sooner or later, so we have to keep a close eye, and ear, on it.
When the abs light comes on in curves, it is most commonly from a marginal wheel speed sensor, combined with a loose bearing.
The front wheel bearings have to be adjusted regularly -- if you do that, and clean and lube as well, they will last nearly for ever. Conical, adjustable front wheel bearings is the most durable design ever, but it requires regular maintenance, which is often overlooked at vendor service; as they make more money if they leave them until they have to be changed because of neglect.
 
Thanks, however the wheel bearings are OK, I keep these well adjusted, checking them at least 6 monthly, repacking the grease if needed as well.

I have a feeling that I am barking completely up the wrong tree but the reason I thought something to do with the steering pump was that the light comes on only if I go hard left, it does it whether the wheels are on the ground or on axle stands like today, whether the suspension is compressed or hanging free,

The sensors are both good and new last year just before the MOT and I didn't have a light on for around 6 months after I fitted them. I've had the wheel bearing putting the light on and also had the problem where the C clip came off the end of the CV joint (hence new outer CV joints both side last year as the splines on the outside of the groove had worn meaning the groove wasn't deep enough).

I had the whole front apart today on axle stands, pulled the brakes apart and took the backplate off to see if there was anything behind the backplate between that and the sensor, pulled the sensors out and cleaned the ends as they do sometimes pick up loads of crap but nothing that I could find, no chafing on the cables for the sensors, even thought one of them was being pulled tight when on the steering stops turning left but no everything was fine, all the brackets in place and no strain on the cables.

I'm figuring it isn't the rear sensors as it happens turning the steering when stationary so nothing affecting the rears.

I guess I'm probably going to need Mr Toyota to put the diagnostics on to find out what error is causing the light to go on - either one of the 4 sensors or ABS pump.

cheers
Andy
 
I guess I'm probably going to need Mr Toyota to put the diagnostics on to find out what error is causing the light to go on...
A test tool, like TechStream, cost less than the fuel for going to Mr Toyota. Nearly. You really oughta have one yourself for a car like this.
Yes, when it happens while stationary, it is likely to be something electr(on)ic, like a loose connection, or maybe the steering wheel angle sensor. With TechStream you can easily check it yourself.
 
Thank Uhu. I’ll take a look at getting a tester. Yes one of those thing I always promised myself but never got around to.

cheers
Andy
 
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Uhu.

just checked and yes cheap as chips. What kind of cable do I need for a 99 100 series with 1hd-fte. Is it the 16 pin one?. Handy I have a nice rugged computer perfect for running techstream on
 
Don't rule out the sensor cable having a broken wire that only separate's on full lock .....the copper wire work hardens in time and can break but show no sign of damage visually .
The worse kind of fault to trace ...what error is it registering ?
 
If you will forgive a minor threadjack can i ask what fuse i should buy for the ABS , i'm assuming the 80 and 100 use the same and i've lost mine .
 
Don't rule out the sensor cable having a broken wire that only separate's on full lock .....the copper wire work hardens in time and can break but show no sign of damage visually .
The worse kind of fault to trace ...what error is it registering ?
Grimbo.

It’s possible although I did get a mate to sit in the car with the engine on while a wiggled the cable and couldn’t make the light come on unless he turned the steering wheel to full left lock. Uhu mentioning the steering angle sensor has given me something to think about.

I haven’t had a look at any codes, never done it on the 100, done it on previous vehicles just never had the need.

cheers
Andy
 
Steering sensor sounds a good bet.....goes out of range on full L/H lock....any idea where it is ? On tractors we use steering angle sensors but they are normally on the axle .....with any luck it's just corrosion on a connector pin just giving a slightly high resistance at that end of the Pot range ....
 
Grinbo.

Looking at a few threads, it wraps around the top end of the steering column and has a multi plug just on the same side as the steering wheel rake and reach control. Can be accessed by removing the lower steering column cowl. From reading the other posts on here and IH8MUD it makes perfect sense that this is the culprit. I'll have a dig around when I get a chance this week and take pictures etc.

Cheers
Andy
 
just checked and yes cheap as chips. What kind of cable do I need for a 99 100 series with 1hd-fte. Is it the 16 pin one?. Handy I have a nice rugged computer perfect for running techstream on
You need the cable called miniVCI. Normally comes with TechStream and drivers. It's a standard OBD plug, D-shaped, same as used for OBD2. Might be 16 pins, but only a few pins are populated (5 iirc).
Btw, did you check the plug on top of each front wheel well, for the abs wheel sensors, easily accessible from above?
 
Uhu.

Yes those connections are all OK. Pulled them to check even though the cables to the sensors were replaced with the sensors. Both sides of the plug are nice and clean.

I've ordered Techstream and the miniVCI cable, supposedly fully supporting windows 10 as I will be loading this on a Toughbook CF19 running Windows 10. Hopefully the connection will come up easy. Will let you know. In the mean time I'm going to try the reset procedure for the Steering Angle Sensor and see if this sorts it.

Cheers
Andy
 
OK So I got Techstream up and running but hasn't really helped. The only alarm on the system was for the Tilt position sensor which was a historic one from when my Tilt motor failed.

Connecting to the ABS/VHS ECU it gave me an error first that the function you tried hasn't worked but may work if you try again. It then gave me the live data feed. One of the elements was ECU IG voltage low however everything else seemed to function. When I turn the steering to the left it then gave me Solenoid on when the light came on so the ABS was doing something I'm not sure it should. Resetting the steering angle sensor didn't work either.

I'm wondering does anyone think it could be the ABS ECU gone bad. Not sure where it is seem to indicate in the manual it could be behind the kick panel either the drivers or passengers side but looked in both and nothing looking like the ECU in the manual there but I may just not be spotting it as there is a plastic cover over a couple of boxes - both sides have 9 thin connectors to them, not sure if one of them is the ABS ECU.

Cheeers
Andy
 
Well it got fixed in the end, it was the driver's side front speed sensor (that I replaced last year). It was damaged, not sure how. Was fine in the straight ahead steering position but went faulty on the turn. Wasn't the wire either so not sure how this happened but not going to spend much time worrying. Got diagnosed by the Dealer as for some reason my Techstream wouldn't talk to the ABS/VSC ECU properly and didn't show any alarm (apart from that indication that the solenoid was activated from the live data). Got a new one from Roughtrax and fitted and now no warning lamp. When the weather gets better I'll see if I can try again with Techstream and see all the data.

Cheers
Andy
 
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