Access to rear suspension tops?

[knicko]

I am planning ahead for the inevitable day my AHC gives up. The rear pipes are scaly and are bound to leak at some point.
I have just ordered a Pedders conversion kit (the standard height, light load type) which I will keep in storage for the day I need it.
Noting the difficulty in getting access to the top nut on the rear shocks, I am thinking about making life easier for my mechanic, in advance.
My thought is to drill a pilot hole through the underbody, directly above the offending nut, then to use a hole saw to expand this out to say 60mm, thus creating a decent inspection hole to get a socket onto the nut from within the car.
What I don't know is where this hole will be within the car and whether I can just put in an appropriately sized rubber grommet to seal the hole afterwards.
Anyone else done something similar and got any comments about my plan?
Thanks,
Nick.

 

[Shayne]

Ouch thats inviting rust surely ?

I don't have a 100 but might it not be better to free up your body mounts , I can actually see the top of the shocks on my 90 because i have a body lift .

 

[Chris]

Please don't do that. Just use a recip saw and cut the tops off below the bracket. Don't cut the actual damper body, just the spigot with the nut on. It's the way. We've seen countless suggestions on how to do this and then when peeople realise they're missing the obvious ...

 

[knicko]

Ok, thanks for the suggestions guys. I did look at the numerous body mount bolts and given the corrosion on the exposed threads, I thought those were best left well alone, rather than risk shearing them off.
I would have give the new access holes plenty of rust treatment, but take your point.
I will go down the recip saw route instead then.
Thanks

 

[Chris]

Snick them then bend them back and forth until they snap.

 

[SteveJB]

Spent quite a lot of money on S type and half moon spanners ratchet ring spanners to get to the top nut of the rear shocks only to find that the nut was totally seized and disintegrated in the end cut it off of Chris says but used a 5 inch cutting disc and angle grinder undo the bottom shock bolt remove spring jack up the body to give yourself some room but watch you don't over stretch the rear flexi brake pipe and while you are there you may as well remove the AHC pump and fluid lines as much as you can the spheres are a sod to get at but can be done with some violence and a big hammer

 

[uHu]

For those who want a hole above the upper shock nut: There is a thread on Mud with measurements and pics for where to drill holes in the floor.
For holes and rust problems, there are several other holes which are closed with a plastic or robber grommet, without any rust problems.

 

[Ted only one]

The best and quickest way to carry out the small job of changing the rear shocks first thing to do is open the package of your new shocks and look at the rubber grommet that comes with the set. and then cut a hole the same size in the floor just above the to of the shock. (push the rear seat forward and then roll the carpet back) thats for anybody who has not done this before. why try and make life hard? foot note. release the pressure at the sphere and put a cloth over the pipe BEFORE you remove other wise you will be covered in oil.

 

[sim303]

Old thread, I know, but for what it's worth... When I renewed my AHC rams (not an AHC-delete) I just about to managed to remove one side with a LOT of struggle. For the other side I opted to drill the hole and make my life 10 times easier. I know it's not the factory method, but it's twenty years since my truck saw the factory, and I'm just a guy with some hand tools and a bunch of siezed & rusted bolts under his truck...

That was 4 years ago, the truck has not suddenly turned to dust as a result. I do like things to be done "properly", but sometimes the pragmatic approach is the way to go

 

[eatapeach]

Please don't do that. Just use a recip saw and cut the tops off below the bracket. Don't cut the actual damper body, just the spigot with the nut on. It's the way. We've seen countless suggestions on how to do this and then when peeople realise they're missing the obvious ...

Spent quite a lot of money on S type and half moon spanners ratchet ring spanners to get to the top nut of the rear shocks only to find that the nut was totally seized and disintegrated in the end cut it off of Chris says but used a 5 inch cutting disc and angle grinder undo the bottom shock bolt remove spring jack up the body to give yourself some room but watch you don't over stretch the rear flexi brake pipe and while you are there you may as well remove the AHC pump and fluid lines as much as you can the spheres are a sod to get at but can be done with some violence and a big hammer

just prepping for my attempts at removing the AHC fittings and shocks.
I have seen the cutting of the shock at the top and then removing the shock body itself - but then how do you actually remove the top 22mm nut and the AHC mounting (12mm bolts) ? they will still be above the cut won't they?

 

[Masterblaster]

just prepping for my attempts at removing the AHC fittings and shocks.
I have seen the cutting of the shock at the top and then removing the shock body itself - but then how do you actually remove the top 22mm nut and the AHC mounting (12mm bolts) ? they will still be above the cut won't they?

View attachment 332533

The cut is made at the shoulder of the chrome ram where the thread protrudes upwards from. Once through, the remainder above will be free. Best undo the two bolts beforehand to free hose from top of shock. Those two bolts are a pain to undo and refit, but I found were accessible with a long reach ring, 12mm I think ?

 

[Kieron]

Hi
i I just need to get the garage to fit a new hose to the top of the shock absorber. How do I do this as they are reluctant to tackle the job I just want to offer them a shortcut

 

[Vardyparty]

Hi
i I just need to get the garage to fit a new hose to the top of the shock absorber. How do I do this as they are reluctant to tackle the job I just want to offer them a shortcut

they have to cut the floor but be careful there’s wires and pipes under there

 

[Gary Stockton]

There are alternative ways to doing this without cutting holes... MUD has an extensive thread about it. Apparently you can get a 22mm flex-head gear wrench in there fairly easily. Jon W has done a body lift which solves the issue completely so you may want to do a bit of research? If you decide on holes, that MUD thread gives exact measurements and sizes.

 

[Kieron]

Hi Gary
Thanks for the advice I’ll do a bit more research before I rush in.
What does a 22mm flex head gear wrench look like
Travelling home today in a rental while The Amazon gets relayed for 6 hours.
I had better stop ribbing my mates with Range Rover Landrovers until I get this sorted. 20 yr old 200 k on the clock and this is the only serious problem I’ve experienced in 7 years of ownership

 

[Vardyparty]

Keep us posted about your progress

 

[Gary Stockton]

 

[Gary Stockton]

I have those particularly but Halfords do similar - and 22mm vs 11mm lol

 

[Kieron]

Thanks for that link.
I'll keep you all posted on the outcome . Cheers all

 

[uHu]

There are alternative ways to doing this without cutting holes... MUD has an extensive thread about it. Apparently you can get a 22mm flex-head gear wrench in there fairly easily. Jon W has done a body lift which solves the issue completely so you may want to do a bit of research? If you decide on holes, that MUD thread gives exact measurements and sizes.

Adding on:
Depends how it looks as well, with regards to rust. If mine had looked like Peach's pic above here, I could have gone for "surgery from underneath". But if it looks like a lump of rust, and the 12 mm head bolts have to be ground away, it is so much easier through a generous 64 mm hole from above. It is not only the tight space and difficulties of getting tools into place, and leverage, but also the pipes and cables running next to the shock-top.
To have another hole in the floor is not a big deal. There are several from before and you can use another of the same factory covers.

For finding the right spot for a hole - I found it easy to drill a pilot hole from the underside, just above the centre of the shock. I used an extra long 3-4 mm drillbit and had to drill in a bit of an angle. This was on the right, the left one is a bit tighter still. Then a 64 mm hole saw from above.