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Aircon dryer & what a stupid place to put it.

hopeless wanderer

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I've been thinking through finalising my front mount intercooler in a few weeks and from the look of it the lines to the AC dryer are in my way a little. Now I don't personally mind as I don't struggle in the heat, the kids however have never been in a car without AC, I know they'll never know the joy of vinyl seats in an old Cortina on a summers day :).
I think the location of the dryer is stupid anyway and I fancy putting it in front of the battery as in the earlier models. I've looked on MUD and there's all sorts of ideas being bounced around and I know the fittings are different on all the components so they aren't interchangeable.
Am I being stupid here ? Can I not just cut the tube on a straight, whack in a compression fitting that can align the tube sizes (if different) and put the dryer in front of the battery? I understand the O rings may need to change on the new dryer because of different refrigerant but am I missing anything else.
It seems straightforward (famous last words)
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I've been thinking through finalising my front mount intercooler in a few weeks and from the look of it the lines to the AC dryer are in my way a little. Now I don't personally mind as I don't struggle in the heat, the kids however have never been in a car without AC, I know they'll never know the joy of vinyl seats in an old Cortina on a summers day :).
I think the location of the dryer is stupid anyway and I fancy putting it in front of the battery as in the earlier models. I've looked on MUD and there's all sorts of ideas being bounced around and I know the fittings are different on all the components so they aren't interchangeable.
Am I being stupid here ? Can I not just cut the tube on a straight, whack in a compression fitting that can align the tube sizes (if different) and put the dryer in front of the battery? I understand the O rings may need to change on the new dryer because of different refrigerant but am I missing anything else.
It seems straightforward (famous last words) View attachment 146054 View attachment 146055

I’ve always thought the same thing, but isn’t there something about it’s operation that makes it essential to be at the lowest part of the system, hence it dangling right in the firing line of the first big rock coming your way?

I know nothing about the operations of HVAC systems so it may be just in my imagination, maybe @StarCruiser or others can comment with some certainty....
 
Filter driers in static fridge Systems are simply fitted in the liquid line wherever is most convenient. The fact that the 80 one is also a small liquid receiver may have some bearing on it being low down. I would imagine it’s more exposed with heavy duty bumpers that are thinner than OE so maybe some removable skid plate is called for to reduce its vulnerability. Why there? It’s reasonably easily accessible I suppose. But then it shouldn’t need any maintenance, so possibly simply a convenient place for the designer to put it.:think::icon-neutral:
 
I've seen compression fitting used. We have a place near us that makes up flexible hoses too so when they do a repair to a system they can replace any bits needed without faffing around.
 
I've seen compression fitting used. We have a place near us that makes up flexible hoses too so when they do a repair to a system they can replace any bits needed without faffing around.

I've managed to find the bracket and dryer to relocate it in front of the PS battery as per the earlier models.
In its current state I gas it for the summer and its gone by the winter so there's a leak in there somewhere that doesn't show under the vacuum prior to filling, so I may as well change it out I reckon before gassing it up again.
It's not a big deal for the UK but Kiwi summers are great on the North Island so best get it done before she goes.
 
You often won’t see a leak under vacuum H if it’s on a seal particularly as it can pull the seal into a slightly different position so it is effective. Plus you’re looking at around 14.7 psi negative as opposed to 300 psi plus on the high side so far more likely to leak. R134A is notorious for leaking especially past compressor shaft seals as it is a tiny molecule. Advice is to use your AC at least once a week even in the cold or you risk refrigerant loss due to shaft seals sitting on the same place on the shaft.

Something that perhaps should happen is for the AC to auto cycle for a couple of minutes after starting even if switched off. This could very easily be achieved as a retrofit.
 
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It's all pished out past my pump seals for sure. Rest of pipework is good. I need a pump rebuild or new pump before a re gas for the Summer.
 
You'll need a shaft seal from Toyota Chris as Denso only supply parts to car makers. The American seals are not very heavy duty. Also you could use your old pump body o rings as again the USA ones are not large enough cross section. I made sure I scratched numbers on my pistons and their bores to make sure they went in to the right bores and the right way round. Mines still OK after must be 2 years or more.
 
Frank, just don't have the inclination to try and salvage the old pump. I have found a genuine Toyota rebuild kit for about £40 but to do all that and it leak somewhere else ....Just found this on the web, need to make a decision quickly

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/aks-dasis-1731942.html

Sorry for the hijack, but it's kinda relevant to AC.
 
Think opie oils do them too
 
Frank, just don't have the inclination to try and salvage the old pump. I have found a genuine Toyota rebuild kit for about £40 but to do all that and it leak somewhere else ....Just found this on the web, need to make a decision quickly

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/aks-dasis-1731942.html

Sorry for the hijack, but it's kinda relevant to AC.


Hi Chris do you have the name or number of the place that makes or has the bypass hoses ? In the interests of speed i'll probably just splice that in to clear my intercooler hoses and then relocate the dryer another time.
 
Frank, just don't have the inclination to try and salvage the old pump. I have found a genuine Toyota rebuild kit for about £40 but to do all that and it leak somewhere else ....Just found this on the web, need to make a decision quickly

https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/aks-dasis-1731942.html

Sorry for the hijack, but it's kinda relevant to AC.
That looks good Chris and it says it’s a Denso unit so if that’s the correct one it looks like a good price.

You have to go Denso only as the cheap Chinese copies are (you’ve guessed it) not so good and worth avoiding.
 
It says it's made by AKS Dasis, not Denso. Its a chinesium!
 
Yes it's a replacement for a Denso unit. I think someone on here got a genuine Denso from Opie.
 
Deff a Chines take-away. It's a sample pic not the actual article. But customer reviews of the seller are utterly polarised so I didn't buy it.
 
There’s always the John Deere one that I got if all else fails Chris. There’s some swappage and a small bracket involved and a longer belt but it does give extra room for intercooler hose if needed. This was a Sanden Denso and not too much different in price.

To be honest Chris, the refurb kit is no more tricky than a power steering pump. However, these things do have a life as the pistons are coated and once that’s gone it’s goodnight.
 
I had my system fixed up good and all the leaks sorted, new drier, condenser etc and it worked beautifully for a while but the pressure eventually found its way out through the pump. I have a spare pump on the shelf but it's seized I think.
 
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