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Alternator

Switch the ignition on but do not start the engine, have someone look at the volt meter where the red light should be and then go to the rear of the alternator, there is an oval plug with three wires, or a square plug with four wires (but this is rare), what I have seen is a square plug with three wires, these are alternative alternators when one with an oval plug version is not available. Gently give the wires a shake and gentle tug, more often than not the red charge light by the voltmeter will flicker, get a new plug with pig tails and solder it on, DO NOT USE CRIMPS or the little blue wire joiners that you put on with a pair of pliers, the combination of aluminium and copper wires sets up corrosion in a short time, and you will be back to square one.

If there is no light do as per @Grimbo with the exciter circuit.

I seem to recall there is a fuse for the ignition system, are all the other lights expected to show on the dashboard with ignition on? I would look through the wiring diagram yourself or perhaps someone else would? I do not have the patience to go through it, I am not being rude with what appears as a 'can't be bothered' attitude but my grey matter is still recovering from surgery and a wiring diagram might as well be a bowl of spaghetti to me.

There is no oil PRESSURE light but there is an oil LEVEL light, and there is of course the oil PRESSURE gauge, I actually put a 'T' in between the block and pressure sender and wired it a light and buzzer, if you hole your sump and lose your oil, damage will be done long before you realise it.

Regards

Dave
 
Dave not thought you as rude for one minute. Glad for advice from all on here.
 
With a luck a final update. There is a charge fuse in the box behind the nearside battery. That also is linked with other warning lights. So now the charge was on but still no charge. Eventually found about the only company in South Essex that repairs starters and alternators. They ran a quick test on my old unit. Less than 24hr turn round. They kindly checked the second hand unit when I went to collect the repaired one. You can guess what! .
Well a few lessons learnt I guess. For any one who has not fitted an alternator the following helps:
Remove the battery terminal clips on both batteries.
Remove the air cleaner top and the small hose to the rocker cover.
Release tension on air con belt and remove.
Take wire feed of air con pump.
Remove the 4 bolts holding the air con pump and pull forward and up wedging on the battery box (tie if necessary).
Take the tension off the alternator belts and move belts out of the way.
Unbolt the heavy connection (10mm) and move the connector to one side.
Remove the 3 pin plug on the rear of the unit, you have to press a clip on the top side of the plug.
Take out the top bolt in the slider.
The bottom bolt can be accessed from the top but I found it more easily done underneath. Make sure you get a socket on square as easy to slip.
With the bottom bolt out, rock the alternator from the top whilst pulling. It may be very tight and require some levering.

Thanks for the advice on here.
 
Glad it's all sorted.....
Very easy to get led astray when fault finding...
If I go to a vehicle with a problem the customer will often tell me he's checked various things ...eg fuses , voltages, it's got oil etc....
My stock answer and method from hard won experience is to thank them but to ignore anything they've told me and carry out the basic checks for myself... surprising how often I find the fault just by doing that .
 
@essexpete et al, I would check the bottom bolt that the alternator pivots on is very tight when tension is right if not it will allow the front of the alternator to 'turn in' under the tension of the belts and with some vibration wear the hole in the bracket and the alternator oval, the results are the twin belts start to loose tension and run unevenly.

Regards

Dave
 
Thanks Dave, I have pulled it up tight but will check it again after some use. The bolt was a PITA to get out. It was so damned tight!
 
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