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First of all what is the procedure and do you need to replce the belt tensioner
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auxillary belt replacement 4.7
- Thread starter Philip amos
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J
jibberjabber
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Brilliant thanks
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J
jibberjabber
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The pics are from a 2004 V8 FSM.
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Mines a 2003 facelift
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J
jibberjabber
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Should be the same then, is your 4.7 V8 ?
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Yes but I recently looked at a friend’s car which is 3 months older and the sat nav wiring is different ,I was going to let him use my old sat nav as same but different connections.
J
jibberjabber
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I would have thought the V8 engine with regard to things like fan belts would all be the same, mine is the straight 6 Diesel so I can't have a look at mine for a comparison.
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Ok thay
J
jibberjabber
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Found this for you on Mud
Credit to
jp213a Dec 2005
Serpentine Belt Tensioner Replacement
1. Remove front belly pan (engine under cover); 8 bolts @ 12mm, recessed bolt is machine thread, others are self tapping
2. Remove engine V-bank cover; 2 bolts & 2 nuts @10mm, release 1 hose from keeper at rear corner on driver’s side
3. Remove intake air connector/box; 2 bolts @10mm, 2 hose clamps @ 10mm, disconnect 4 small hoses, pull big tube off throttle body then lift up intake air connector and pull tube off air filter outlet (air mass meter stays with air filter)
4. Remove serpentine belt; release belt tension with 14mm socket on tensioner pulley bolt with racket set to loosen (tensioner bolt is left hand thread)
5. Remove pulley from power steering pump; 17mm nut with box end wrench, hold pulley with homemade holding tool (see below) or strap wrench or Toyota’s special service tool (SST) 09960-10010 Variable Pin Wrench available at http://toyota.spx.com/
6. Remove alternator securing nut and bolt (don’t disconnect electrical connection); 14 mm nut and 14mm bolt, slide alternator forward off stud and let it hang
7. Remove passenger side timing belt cover; 3 bolts @ 10mm and 1 nut @ 10mm, release 2 hoses from keeper
8. Remove small center timing belt cover; 2 bolts @ 12mm; it is tricky to work the cover out of the tight space below the cooling water pipe and even trickier to work it back in
9. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner; 2 nuts and 1 bolt at 10mm
10. Assembly is the reverse order except position the center timing belt cover under the cooling water pipe before installing the tensioner
Power Steering Pump Pulley Holding Tool Description (homemade):
Take a piece of steel bar stock 16” long x 1” wide x ¼” thick. Drill a ½” hold in ¾” from one end. Drill a second ½” hole three inches over from the first hole. Insert a 7/16 x 1 ½” or longer bolt in each hole and screw a nut on to each. Run the nuts down to the bar. The two bolt ends fit into the holes in the power steering pump pulley face. Hold the bar stationary while loosening the pulley nut with a 17mm box end wrench. A piece of Unistrut could be substituted for the steel bar www.unistrut.com
Notes:
1. Tensioner is Part No.16620-0W100; List $71.73; Wholesale $57.38 (the tensioner comes with the pulley as one unit)
2. The new tensioner was made in the USA and the original equipment was
made in Canada by Litens Automotive Group, model 4-121.
3. The new tensioner has a slightly different design, primarily the spring
4. The tensioner was replaced at 139,918 miles.
5. The bearing in the original tensioner pulley was replaced at approximately 125,000 miles (bearing number 6203 by NSK) due to a rough spot. The replacement bearing had a rough spot and a screech at 139,918 miles. The bearing seal was removed and it was dry (no grease).
6. The tensioner spring in the OE tensioner was weak. The pulley was bouncing when the engine was idling, causing the drive belt to chirp. With the new tensioner, the pulley was stable and the chirp was gone.
7. A serpentine belt routing diagram is located on the bottom side of the hood, passenger side
8. Instructions assume a left-hand drive
9. Bolt and nut sizes given are head sizes
Credit to
jp213a Dec 2005
Serpentine Belt Tensioner Replacement
1. Remove front belly pan (engine under cover); 8 bolts @ 12mm, recessed bolt is machine thread, others are self tapping
2. Remove engine V-bank cover; 2 bolts & 2 nuts @10mm, release 1 hose from keeper at rear corner on driver’s side
3. Remove intake air connector/box; 2 bolts @10mm, 2 hose clamps @ 10mm, disconnect 4 small hoses, pull big tube off throttle body then lift up intake air connector and pull tube off air filter outlet (air mass meter stays with air filter)
4. Remove serpentine belt; release belt tension with 14mm socket on tensioner pulley bolt with racket set to loosen (tensioner bolt is left hand thread)
5. Remove pulley from power steering pump; 17mm nut with box end wrench, hold pulley with homemade holding tool (see below) or strap wrench or Toyota’s special service tool (SST) 09960-10010 Variable Pin Wrench available at http://toyota.spx.com/
6. Remove alternator securing nut and bolt (don’t disconnect electrical connection); 14 mm nut and 14mm bolt, slide alternator forward off stud and let it hang
7. Remove passenger side timing belt cover; 3 bolts @ 10mm and 1 nut @ 10mm, release 2 hoses from keeper
8. Remove small center timing belt cover; 2 bolts @ 12mm; it is tricky to work the cover out of the tight space below the cooling water pipe and even trickier to work it back in
9. Remove the serpentine belt tensioner; 2 nuts and 1 bolt at 10mm
10. Assembly is the reverse order except position the center timing belt cover under the cooling water pipe before installing the tensioner
Power Steering Pump Pulley Holding Tool Description (homemade):
Take a piece of steel bar stock 16” long x 1” wide x ¼” thick. Drill a ½” hold in ¾” from one end. Drill a second ½” hole three inches over from the first hole. Insert a 7/16 x 1 ½” or longer bolt in each hole and screw a nut on to each. Run the nuts down to the bar. The two bolt ends fit into the holes in the power steering pump pulley face. Hold the bar stationary while loosening the pulley nut with a 17mm box end wrench. A piece of Unistrut could be substituted for the steel bar www.unistrut.com
Notes:
1. Tensioner is Part No.16620-0W100; List $71.73; Wholesale $57.38 (the tensioner comes with the pulley as one unit)
2. The new tensioner was made in the USA and the original equipment was
made in Canada by Litens Automotive Group, model 4-121.
3. The new tensioner has a slightly different design, primarily the spring
4. The tensioner was replaced at 139,918 miles.
5. The bearing in the original tensioner pulley was replaced at approximately 125,000 miles (bearing number 6203 by NSK) due to a rough spot. The replacement bearing had a rough spot and a screech at 139,918 miles. The bearing seal was removed and it was dry (no grease).
6. The tensioner spring in the OE tensioner was weak. The pulley was bouncing when the engine was idling, causing the drive belt to chirp. With the new tensioner, the pulley was stable and the chirp was gone.
7. A serpentine belt routing diagram is located on the bottom side of the hood, passenger side
8. Instructions assume a left-hand drive
9. Bolt and nut sizes given are head sizes
