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Ball joints.......

froggy Steve

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Genuine Toyota at 150€ a side or these..... @165 each?????? the genuine ones have been on 17 years, and I am changing 'just in case' the greasable ones should be easier to look after.....
What do you fellow 90 owners think?
 
I like the idea of greasable ones, but given the similarity of the prices I would choose Toyota as being of guaranteed quality
 
The alternatives are 'heavy duty' improved specs over original parts.........if that means someone has stuck a grease nipple in a 555 Chinese made ball joint I am going with toyota!
 
done, genuine yota but there is a 2 week delay on l/h side :( no problem....I hope
 
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lol, never mind - I will get some more stickers from euro 4x4 :laughing:
 
I changed mine for the first Romania trip so three years ago , and i've just discovered i think i should change them again . Trouble is i don't have time before this years trip to get them anywhere but from Roughtrax again .
 
Why the need to change them again Shayne? Best thing to do is inspect for play regulary. These joints don't go from 100% to broken in a matter of days or weeks. I checked mine which are original with 210,000 miles and there's no play whats so ever, so I'm not bothering replacing them
 
Only because I was on the floor having bled brakes when i let the jack down i noticed the lower ball sort of drop back into itself so i jacked it back up again and there's about a half inch of up/down movement in the ball before the tyre lifts ?!?
 
Oh, that's not good! That's the problem with aftermarket Lower ball joints. Out of all joints that is the most fatal if it fails and is worth going to Toyota for!
 
Looking at it specifically again today and i think it might be an optical illusion , the other side sort of twists as the wheel comes into contact with the ground , perhaps the rubber is sat just so making it appear to be up/down movement ?
 
Looking at it specifically again today and i think it might be an optical illusion , the other side sort of twists as the wheel comes into contact with the ground , perhaps the rubber is sat just so making it appear to be up/down movement ?
Measure the gap, then bottle Jack lifting from wishbone until wheel off the ground, remeasure. I have 1.2mm in 1 side and 1mm on the other so going to change mine. Think 0.5mm is expected.
 
The trouble is that if they are seized there's no play.As Danny said 0.5 is the tolerance & the workshop manual recommends the play is checked using a dial test indicator. Mine were checked the week before this happened with the traditional "mechanic giving it some grief with a crowbar method" & pronounced fit. I changed all four & the O/S lower was fecked.Ive used roughtrax but would go for original if availability or price wasn't
IMAG0160.jpg
a problem
 
The trouble is that if they are seized there's no play.As Danny said 0.5 is the tolerance & the workshop manual recommends the play is checked using a dial test indicator. Mine were checked the week before this happened with the traditional "mechanic giving it some grief with a crowbar method" & pronounced fit. I changed all four & the O/S lower was fecked.Ive used roughtrax but would go for original if availability or price wasn'tView attachment 131472 a problem
Looks like you was lucky and no body damage occurred? Mine just survived 3 days laning in mid Wales but definitely changing them soon.
 
The ball joints buggered but not because of a quality issue , the trouble is i paid professionals to fit them and the ass wipes used no grease at all ffs . Bone dry the both of them :wtf:

Passenger side hasn't been effected but the boot on drivers side was filled with muddy grit acting like sandpaper so a new one arrives from Roughtrax tomorrow and will be fitted by an amateur - please see my signature .
 
I thought the ball joints come pre-filled with grease?
 
They come wet but the boot is not filled so of course if you bury it there's a void to fill and once the crap is in there it aint getting out .
 
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