bash plates

karl2000

Member
Supporter
I am in great_britain
Apr 27, 2020
176
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Is there any best way to get these on and off? Can I remove just the middle one or do I have to remove the front one first?

Back or front bolts first, or does it not matter?

Looked in the service manual couldn't find anything, and not much room under there for a fat **** like me! :)

Thanks!!
 

Tractionman

Well-Known Member
I am in england
Oct 11, 2013
741
416
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Hi Karl, I assume you mean the standard bean can quality original ? When I replaced mine with a substantial aftermarket part , recommended by Juddian on here. I took the front off first, then the second part, which had a smaller plastic part bolted on which came off with it. Mine, as usual was rusted through in places with bits missing, so removal may have been different if all intact. I ripped the front part off and angle grinded the second which came off with the plastic 3rd section attached, then with heat and a load of swearing, removed the bolts. That 3rd plastic bit is only attached to the second metal part, which is bolted to underside.
Maybe someone else can give better advice if they removed intact, and not rotted out.
 
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TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
607
419
63
Hi Karl
you can take off front or rear they look like three parts but the rear is just one part the plastic end is left on no need to detach , when removing them undo the two front bolts first then when you undo the rear bolts its easier to unhook the two front hooks on the front one that hook into the front chassis rail , on the rear one do the same take off the front two bolts first, on the rear there is a hook near the middle of the bash plate that hooks onto the cross-member , they can be a pain to put back on on realigning them up unless you follow this system , if you have taken them both off put the front one back on first and hook the two front hooks into the front chassis rail and put the front two bolts in finger tight or a bit less so that you can move it slightly to line up the two rear bolts if necessary when fitting the rear bolts , when fitting the rear bash plate hook the plate on to the cross-member and lift up the bashplate at the front to match the holes for the front to bolts and fit the front two bolts finger tight so you can easy slightly adjust the for the rear two bolts . dont forget to tighten all bolts when front and rear bolts are fitted on both bash plates .
hope that helps
 

TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
607
419
63
Put copper ease or grease on the bolts so that they dont rustup and weld themselves to the chassis rails also they will always be easy to remove and refit . and if your bash plates are rusty while they are off wirebrush them and treat them with rustkiller and paint them with black hammeright or other anti rust paint . do the same with the chassis rails and crossmembers to stop and kill any rust .
 

Juddian

Member
I am in great_britain
Jun 17, 2019
109
103
43
Kettering, Northamptonshire
Karl2000, i'm not a narrow as i once might have been...understatement of the year.

I bought a pair of extra high ramps, they come with built in jacks to raise the wheels even more (but in practice haven't needed to use the jacks so i don't keep them installed in the ramps to save weight), if you look for these be wary some show tyre widths up to 225, the ones i bought must be larger because the 265's on our motors fit easily.
However, i also have an old standard pair of slightly smaller car ramps, so by putting the standard ramps in front of the back wheels and the large ramps in front of the fronts, in low range our motors just climb up onto all 4, making it an easy and safely supported working height.
As the appoach run up of the ramps are different lengths you need to set the rear ramps a foot or so forward to start with if that makes any sense.

On ebay there's a used commercial galvanized set of those massive car forecourt tilting display ramps currently for sale @ £400, get the whole vehicle about 2ft off the ground and solidly safe, if i was younger i'd snap those up because they'll last a lifetime...item no 154077519897...another pair currently at £350 392937654650

Don't get me started on Toyota's biscuit tin quality 120 series bash plate, the ones on my previous 70 and 90 series were of a completely different standard.

Edit...those in the link below are the same as the ones i and TM bought, good plates for the money and come with an easily removable section for oil changes, thoughtful touch that, but the podwer coating whilst it looks nice isn't the best in the world so if anyone buys them suggest slapping a good coat of chassis paint on before fitting.
 
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DH.FJ120

New Member
I am in england
Apr 12, 2020
47
38
18
Lancashire
..... and if your bash plates are rusty while they are off wirebrush them and treat them with rustkiller and paint them with black hammeright or other anti rust paint ......
Laughing- love your optimism Tony. IF they are rusty - can guarantee that they are.
Personally I’d not wirebrush them as you’ll end up with nothing but a pile of rust on the floor, once taken off replace them with non Mr T part and then not worry about them again.

I’ve seen the bash plates called “biscuit tin” quality, personally I’d say they are “chewing gum wrapper” quality. A shame really considering the build quality of the rest of the vehicle.


I can’t find / remember where I got mine from - although I can remember it was Poland, but This is exactly the same if anyone is interested.
 
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TONYCY11

Well-Known Member
I am in cyprus
Oct 25, 2015
607
419
63
Ha Ha mine are like new , I have a 2009 120 that spent eight and a half years in the UK before I came to live in Cyprus . I took the bash plates of and wire brushed them treated them with jelinite rustkiller and painted them with lidl black gloss anti rust paint about 18 months ago , and they still look brand new and just out of the box . I also did the same with the chassis and then painted the whole chassis and underbody and rear axle with black waxoile and I am very happy with the results , I dont know how to put and send pics on here , but I if you or anyone ring 00357 97859007 on whatsapp I can send you pics of my 120 underneath and its bashplates or any part of the car
 

Tractionman

Well-Known Member
I am in england
Oct 11, 2013
741
416
63
Agree with the others.
Tony, yep, did grease mine, bolts that is, a good tip for anyone.
As per Juddian in a previous post, changed all the supplied bolts for s/s dome heads, so no protruding edges to get hooked on. And deffo painted before fitted.
DH, exactly the same as what Juddian advised me to get. On promotion at the time + free ship, came by road, fully tracked, and here within 4/5 days.
Tony, you were lucky they lasted that long before you treated, no wonder you're laughing at all our antics haha
 
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