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Ben’s 1989 HJ60 with 2H / H55F

Ben Stratford

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Had the truck nearly 7 years now and have done lots of improvements ( replacing worn out or broken bits ) and upgrades.
The goal is to end up with a vehicle for solo remote touring. So its important to me to be self sufficient and be able to repair anything myself. Having built back in the reliability should minimise anything major from happening.
With the elimination of bodywork rust now visible on the horizon and a big go at tidying up the chassis planned soon, it wont be far off being ready for a long trip to test it all out. The truck runs well though and has only 231k miles on it. There is no blow by at all and I normally add 1% 2 stroke oil every diesel fill up to lube the injector pump.
Anyway, the only thing that has not been refurbished or replaced is the engine. Just serviced every 5k (since 150k miles) with Toyota oil and filters. Before that it was owned by an engineering firm but service history is unknown.
I do suspect though that the injection pump and nozzles could do with a refurb which is beyond my capability.
Would welcome any opinions as to whether I should do this, not bother at all or what do you think?
 
Hi Ben, sounds similar to mine, I would leave the 2H as is, the mileage is low and is very reliable as it sits. it will not win any speed races if its anything like mine (same 2H H55 combo). it would be nice to see another 60 out and about and at our meets also.

my 02 cents : leave as is and drive it. Cheers Jon

PS (or shove an FTE 100 series motor in it!)
 
Injectors my need a refresh. Get the tips from "Blue abyss" on ebay and have them fitted and set up at a diesel shop but if it runs well I'd leave the pump alone. Not forgotten about the wheels also.
If your local diesel shop won't fit tips they don't supply I can have mine do it and send them to you.
 
Thanks Jon & Andy, that’s what I was thinking, leave the pump for now but service the injectors. Also want to get the timing checked for the pump, again not something I would do.
I have been discussing the job with a few specialists so don’t see any issue but will check out Blue Abyss if needed Andy, thanks for the tip.
Its in for a re-MOT today.
It had failed on chassis corrosion at front of one rear spring hangar, swivel bearing play and handbrake adjustment.
I serviced the swivel housing but left the rest to the experts.
 
Hi Ben,
My 40 has a 2H/H55f and 60 series axles/24v and I have owned her for 20 years and 100,000+ miles and I have never had cause to doubt the engine except when the flexible pipe (chassis to engine fuel feed) swelled and restricted the feed. She was a winch race truck and had had a fairly hard life but even so every two weeks she climbs to 5,000 feet as I take supplies (food, beer, water, propane, etc )for a mate who lives a good way up the Sierra Nevadas and the last six kms is a very rough track and a steep climb. Mine is the only truck in our town that does this without complaint from vehicle or driver.
It is known as the 'million mile' engine with just reason.
The key as you are doing is regular oil changes with quality oil and Toyota parts. I also change the fuel filter regularly.
There is a video on Youtube about a 2H being stripped at 600,000 miles and the result showed very little wear and nothing major to be addressed.
Andy has much more experience than me so if you are going to do the injectors take his advice.

regards,

Rodger
 
Hi Roger, thanks for sharing. Yes I do get edgy when I have done all the mechanicals and having run out of things to focus on I may be guilty of trying to find something else! But will get the injectors serviced.
The car starts and idles well hot or cold and runs well. The oil level is steady etc so I don’t have any reason to assume there is a pump issue other than probably not being touched since new 33 years ago.
Once back from MOT I will next fit some drawers / storage in the back which will keep me busy.

The list of things that make me nervous in terms of reliability is small:
Injectors / air:fuel ratio
Vacuum system for hi / low range selection
LSD clutches are an unknown quantity
Fuel lines

And for remote touring set up shall I go for a winch or front locker?

Plenty of time to get these things addressed though.
 
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Hi Ben,
Apologies for the delayed response but we are so busy and have been for months that it is only occasionally that I can relax and enjoy this forum.
I get the impression that when you go travelling it will be on your own, so assuming that is correct, I've answered accordingly.
The serious off-roading that we do is always with others, particularly @Dave2000 who is very experienced so I always learn something from him. I do undertake some tracks that others in our town won't go near but taking supplies up the mountains only involves low ratio and, to date, not four wheel drive even after all the washouts they have had up there in the last few days - I have just returned from one of these sorties.
Years ago I was offered some new lockers at a price that couldn't be refused but have never fitted them but extensive reading has meant that if I did fit either of them it would only be the rear but I also suspect that it depends on the type of locker you envisage. There have been a couple of times over the years where, if I had been alone, a winch would have been the only way out...
From these experiences I have realised that if I went for a winch I would want one that I could plug and attach at either front or rear, even though my truck being an ex-winch race truck and has the bars built underneath to stop the winch cable fouling any of the underpinnings, as certainly on one occasion the only way out was backwards. I had dropped a front wheel into a gulley that was deep enough to stand upright under the truck in so two wheels were airborne and the equilibrium maintained as the truck rested on the rear edge of the front wing. If I had been on my own, I think it would have been very difficult to use a front mounted winch to extricate myself from that position. As it was we had to reposition Dave's 80 in a confined space (rockface one side and a drop on the other) and carefully route the rope back to it to avoid damage to my truck and/or his.
I cannot say whether a rear difflock would have helped but I do realise that we tend to drive into problems and the escape may not always be found in forward motion.

Regards,

Rodger
 
Its the LSD Axle Andy, seems to work well but not sure how to know if it is worn or not. Cruiserworld have the OEM toyota clutches so that’s a bit of insurance.
Just changed the diff oil and the oil dropped out was really good with no debris
 
When I've had them in the past they have always worked. You can generally tell when going round a sharp LH bend, ie a junction as they can give a little tyre squeal as you apply the gas.
 
A44BCD84-9B7F-4A88-8068-E408CACD7D9B.jpeg

Replacement bumper fitted today - just the fog lights to go.
Next to replace upper and lower tailgates once the new ones are painted in Toyota 153
 
Yeah 60 series are a real pain in the bum when it comes to mechanical jobs and operations, but eventually............ Like me ...... We all get them fixed and running which is frustrating in some cases, but it is worth it in the end, because everyone just stands there shaking their head saying "Wow, that is one hell of a car". That is the beauty of 60 series land Cruisers, especially the old HJ61 Station Wagons.
 
Hi Ben looking good where did you get your bumper from just wondering as I could do with both front and rear ? Regards john
 
Hi John,
Got it from Leon - a private seller near Lowestoft along with a load of other gear.
I dont think he has any other bumpers now.
You could pm Andy on the off chance?
Cheers ben
 
Funnily enough Leon rang me to offer me the lot and or value the parts before he put them on FB marketplace. I must have been asleep not to have bought them.
I've a few of these rear bumpers, some with lights which I've had in store for up to 20 years. One plan would be to get some none UK ones ( without fog light apertures and fit some 80 series fogs to the bottom tailgate as the 80's have.
 
A good Idea Andy. The fog lights don’t half collect mud!
I have one fog light so will blank the other sides hole off. May replace nearside half with one without the fog light hole one day.
I see Cruiserworld have started reproducing them now
 
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Looks like €232 for both sides in either steel or stainless with or without the fog light holes. Then there’s shipping import duty vat etc
 
Each end of each bumper is extra of course -add another €400 if you want those too
 
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