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BFG Ko2 A/T Snow and Ice

Brian S

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As it looks like we might get a dusting in the near future
Anybody know /used them, what do they perform like on snow and ice ?
 
Do you mean the AT with the snow and ice symbol on them?
 
I didn't get to drive my new KM2s in the snow, but the old original BFG Ats were epic. Literally like driving on tarmac most of the time. This is why I want some for the Hilux.
 
I didn't get to drive my new KM2s in the snow, but the old original BFG Ats were epic. Literally like driving on tarmac most of the time. This is why I want some for the Hilux.

Did you use them on ice as well Chris?
 
I have used mine across Europe to Hungary in February and the UK all year round, no tyre is good on ice unless it has spikes, but the bfg KO and KO2 AT are brilliant for bad weather use.
They are good enough that after being passenger in my car my sister commented on how stable and sure footed my car felt compared to hers in the snow, at the time she had a X5.
My other sister after driving my 80 to collect her kids from school because her Kuga would not get off her driveway traded the Kuga in for a hilux because "4x4's are excellent", she did not upgrade the tyres though.

In short I have had two sets of bfg ko at's on my truck over the last 10 years, and they are excellent in all conditions except for mud, and the only reason I would put anything else on my truck would be because I could not get them.
 
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Any tyre with the snow flake symbol will meet a minimum standard in snow and its pretty good. The bfg and and general grabber AT are very good in snow.

They wont beat a dedicated winter tyre though, i have a set of yokohama winter tyres on there own rims for when we get a good winter and they are fantastic. They really show themselves on hard pack where the ATs struggle.

ice? Get some studs or chains, or let go of the brakes and aim for the exit point..
 
Oh, ive never seen the point in the m+s marking. Ive had road tyres with this on and they were useless in both..
 
Agreed re chains - only option when it gets really crappy - first time I drove on chains in the Alps I couldn't get over the traction available. PITA to take on and off tho... and you'll kill the chains quickly if you drive on clear tarmac with them.
 
Back in 2010 when we had the last decent snow fall which stuck around for a while I had some budget Runway Enduro AT's on and never got stuck until the snow was over bumper height. The wear rate was quite high though. I now have BFG AT's on and have yet to use them in anything more than a light dusting. On a less permanent solution I used snow socks on the works Transit a couple of years ago in around 8-9" of snow and literally just drove straight up a steepish hill in Sheffield (Ringinglow Road) when all else was stranded. Very impressed but using them on cleared gritted roads shreds them in less than a mile as I found out when I couldn't be bothered to remove them. Personally, if I had a 2wd car I'd be looking at carrying a couple of pairs of those rather than chains.
 
No not on real ice, like an ice rink. But yes to hard packed snow. They were really good. I didn't realise it was slipper at all and I got out to rescue a bloke in a Mondeo and immediately fell on my ass. I couldn't stand up on it. I have driven studded tyres and they are outrageous. As are proper chains. Never tried the socks.
 
Back in 2010 when we had the last decent snow fall which stuck around for a while I had some budget Runway Enduro AT's on and never got stuck until the snow was over bumper height. The wear rate was quite high though. I now have BFG AT's on and have yet to use them in anything more than a light dusting. On a less permanent solution I used snow socks on the works Transit a couple of years ago in around 8-9" of snow and literally just drove straight up a steepish hill in Sheffield (Ringinglow Road) when all else was stranded. Very impressed but using them on cleared gritted roads shreds them in less than a mile as I found out when I couldn't be bothered to remove them. Personally, if I had a 2wd car I'd be looking at carrying a couple of pairs of those rather than chains.

That was real snow that year TP, it was 3'deep around here , I used the Suburban through that winter with 245/16 new BFG AT KO's, it was awesome, never looked like getting stuck even though it did.t have lockers.
Never seen snow like it since though.
 
...Anybody know /used them, what do they perform like on snow and ice ?
Here in Santa's homeland, the old BFG A/Ts were considered dangerous on winter roads, unless studded or heavily siped. The new ones, KO2, are much better, at least for the first year or two. When they get older, the rubber hardens, and as the pattern wears, the blocks will flex less and give less traction on slippery stuff.

I have 3 sets for the cruzah,
KO2 in 265/75R16,
Dedicated winter tyres, Yokohama Geolandar I/T-s (G-073), 265/75R16
Studded winter tyres, Nokian something, 275/70R16
I bought the KO2s before a long trip during the summer of 2016. They were fantastic on the tarmac and on forest roads. Very good water drainage too. When winter came around, about this time of year, I left them on, and was surprised at how good they are on snow. Really no reason to put on anything else except for in icy conditions. On ice, only studs or chains give a good grip, but dedicated studless winter tyres also give a reasonable grip, as long as you take it easy. Proper winter tyres have much finer/denser sipings than the KO2s, and give much better grip on hard slippery surfaces. Airing down also helps, btw.
Studless is normally better at all winter conditions than studded except on ice, if all other factors are equal (age, wear, quality, etc). Only exception is dry tarmac, where studded tyres might be better than studless winter tyres because they have a harder rubber; but that comes into play only if you drive close to the limits of available friction.
So this year, with the the KO2s one year older, I'll just put on the Yokohamas and leave them on until the spring, unless there is a need to put on studded.

I have never lived in England for a whole year, but I expect that the winter conditions there would suggest that the KO2 is an excellent choice. For icy roads, a light chain could be an option to letting the car stand still for that one ? day per year. Chains are also good for muddy tracks, so maybe not to bad to carry a pair.

Re chains, for the 100, Mr.T states that chains should not be used on the front wheels. Looking at the fronts, I think the problem is the upper ball joint. If that's the case, there are different designs of chains that could still be useable, if fitted very tightly, and the speed kept down.
 
Here in Santa's homeland, the old BFG A/Ts were considered dangerous on winter roads, unless studded or heavily siped. The new ones, KO2, are much better, at least for the first year or two. When they get older, the rubber hardens, and as the pattern wears, the blocks will flex less and give less traction on slippery stuff.

I have 3 sets for the cruzah,
KO2 in 265/75R16,
Dedicated winter tyres, Yokohama Geolandar I/T-s (G-073), 265/75R16
Studded winter tyres, Nokian something, 275/70R16
I bought the KO2s before a long trip during the summer of 2016. They were fantastic on the tarmac and on forest roads. Very good water drainage too. When winter came around, about this time of year, I left them on, and was surprised at how good they are on snow. Really no reason to put on anything else except for in icy conditions. On ice, only studs or chains give a good grip, but dedicated studless winter tyres also give a reasonable grip, as long as you take it easy. Proper winter tyres have much finer/denser sipings than the KO2s, and give much better grip on hard slippery surfaces. Airing down also helps, btw.
Studless is normally better at all winter conditions than studded except on ice, if all other factors are equal (age, wear, quality, etc). Only exception is dry tarmac, where studded tyres might be better than studless winter tyres because they have a harder rubber; but that comes into play only if you drive close to the limits of available friction.
So this year, with the the KO2s one year older, I'll just put on the Yokohamas and leave them on until the spring, unless there is a need to put on studded.

I have never lived in England for a whole year, but I expect that the winter conditions there would suggest that the KO2 is an excellent choice. For icy roads, a light chain could be an option to letting the car stand still for that one ? day per year. Chains are also good for muddy tracks, so maybe not to bad to carry a pair.

Re chains, for the 100, Mr.T states that chains should not be used on the front wheels. Looking at the fronts, I think the problem is the upper ball joint. If that's the case, there are different designs of chains that could still be useable, if fitted very tightly, and the speed kept down.
What pressure have you found to be the sweet spot with the geolanders uhu?
There the ones I also run.
 
Yes, we had a snowflake forecast so;-

IMG_1295.JPG


Bought S/H fortunately saving a bit. They are 275/s
 
Second hand tyres are useless for snow/ice conditions. The soft rubber is what helps the most, and rubber hardens over time. Even the best nordic winter tyres are bad after 4 seasons. In fact, japanese winter tyres can be used as winter tyres for 3 years, and then as summer tyres, as the rubber is harder further in. That's how they do it over there, I've heard.
 
Second hand tyres are useless for snow/ice conditions. The soft rubber is what helps the most, and rubber hardens over time. Even the best nordic winter tyres are bad after 4 seasons. In fact, japanese winter tyres can be used as winter tyres for 3 years, and then as summer tyres, as the rubber is harder further in. That's how they do it over there, I've heard.

In the bin they go then!! I didn't realise being S/H and only months old they wouldn't be any good. Bugger.
 
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