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Big End Bearings for Dummies

G

Guest

Guest
Greetings all.

Hope all is well with the buses

I'm in the process of agreeing scope of work and costs for BEB replacement.

Have re-read all the previous postings (Craig - you had some very good info posted) I've saved on this topic & checked a few postings on the net.


I just wanted to check a few things and get the scope of work clear before I commit and would appreciate any clarifications.

1. Job involves replacing big end bearings and shells only.

2. Replacing the BEB cradle is the same as replacing the shells?

3. Milner Parts are OK because they are as per original Al/Sn brg's - as opposed to some spurious parts that are copper/lead?

4. If going for Milner parts do you still have to remove the sump and read off the numbers stamped on the big ends on both the conrods and the crankshaft?

5. You should consult the workshop manual to work out what size you need then get one shell size thicker this tightens the clearance 1-2 tenth's of a thou to allow for a little wear and bedding in of the crank??

6. Cam belt Idler pulley should be changed aswell

7. Timing belt, idler & tensioner should be done at the same time - all Toyota parts.


Any insight much appreciated

Thanks

Niall
1995 HDJ80 300K - IN OVERHAUL
 
The job involves replacing the big end bearing shells only, not
the bearings (there are not any). What you have is a shaft
(crankshaft), running on the shaft is the bottom of the conrod, like a
circle of steel with a hole bored in. These two parts are precision
ground to size. To provide lubrication between them you have the
shells. The shells are thin semi circles of material that have some
free running properties but allow oil to move between them.
The BEB cradle is a new one on me. Unless they are refering to
the split end part of the conrod, which never needs replacing, anyone?
I would stay away from Milner for parts that are this vital to
your engine. The Aluminium or Copper arguement is an old one.
Copper/Lead is considered better in engineering as it has more free
running properties. Toyota fit Ali and they are not fools. With Toyota
you can get all six sizes, most aftermarket ones do not give you this
choice.
I cannot comment on 4 as I dont know if Milner do the sizes.
5 will be yes, or fit the same size that came out. You can get a
kind of plastic compound that you put in to the old bearing setup,
tighten it up, remove it and measure the plastic to give you the size.
6 and 7 are yes.
My eldest son did his own a year ago and he had never had a set
out before. The only delay to it was getting the shells from Toyota,
they got him a set of main shells instead. If you are prepared to get
in there it is easily do-able yourself.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Skype: Cobminor
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.
 
Clive

Thanks for that!

Much clearer on the job - helps when talking to the garage. I don't have the time or courage to do the job myself

Key point is Milners BeB part V's MrToyo... no point in doing all that work and skimping on the main piece of kit

Cheers
Niall
 
BEB cradle - some engines have a single piece bearing cradle as opposed to
the individual big end bearing caps, adds to the rigidity and strength of
the block, particularly with alloy blocks, I think the Rover K series used a
cradle (freelander 1.8). Don't know which Toyota engines might use a
cradle, perhaps the V6 and V8? (All to new for me again)
Malcolm Bagley
Stafford UK
FJ45 '75 & FJ45 '76
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of Clive Marks
Sent: 17 April 2007 12:01
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Big End Bearings for Dummies
The job involves replacing the big end bearing shells only, not
the bearings (there are not any). What you have is a shaft
(crankshaft), running on the shaft is the bottom of the conrod, like a
circle of steel with a hole bored in. These two parts are precision
ground to size. To provide lubrication between them you have the
shells. The shells are thin semi circles of material that have some
free running properties but allow oil to move between them.
The BEB cradle is a new one on me. Unless they are refering to
the split end part of the conrod, which never needs replacing, anyone?
I would stay away from Milner for parts that are this vital to
your engine. The Aluminium or Copper arguement is an old one.
Copper/Lead is considered better in engineering as it has more free
running properties. Toyota fit Ali and they are not fools. With Toyota
you can get all six sizes, most aftermarket ones do not give you this
choice.
I cannot comment on 4 as I dont know if Milner do the sizes.
5 will be yes, or fit the same size that came out. You can get a
kind of plastic compound that you put in to the old bearing setup,
tighten it up, remove it and measure the plastic to give you the size.
6 and 7 are yes.
My eldest son did his own a year ago and he had never had a set
out before. The only delay to it was getting the shells from Toyota,
they got him a set of main shells instead. If you are prepared to get
in there it is easily do-able yourself.
Regards,
Clive Marks
Home: +44 1293 514600
Mobile: +44 7821 491897
Skype: Cobminor
Crawley, West Sussex, UK.

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04:43
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04:43
 
Hello guys,
Toyota will supply BEB's in five standard sizes that give you the
possibility to fine tune the oil gap. What's the choice offered by
Milner.
When I did the BEB's, I used one number under- size shells to keep the
oil gap tight and oil pressure a bit higher. That was done on
recommendation from Maarten of AAI. No problem after two years/20k
miles.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
Roman

Re keep the oil gap tight and oil pressure a bit higher.

Thanks for that.Gut feeling tells me that the more Oil i have on the bearings the betterto keep them cool.

I wonder why Maarten of AAI goes tight - better performance ??....

Niall
 
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