Big End Bearings

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Hello all!!
My alcoholic LC has nearly 300,000 KM on the clock.
When I told my local Toyo man I wanted my BeB's looked at and possibly replaced he said I was barmey, never heard of such a failure & had no idea how many million hours it would take him to figure out what was required and put it right.
Does anyone know anyone in Ireland with experience of this type of work? I need someone that know's what they're at.
Failing this I'll be on the ferry to the mainland....
Thanks
Niall
1995 HDJ81 + loads of lights, winch bumper, roof rack, + bits inside for Africa
PS - (If they can fit long range tanks, new injectors, injectors pumps and and new intercooler and turn it into a drag racer - all the better!!)
 
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Niall,
Before diving in and spending money unecessarily just ask yourself a
few questions.
Does my vehicle exhibit any of the symptoms associated with BEB
problems? See Birfield archives for more info.
Any rattles / noises?
What is the oil pressure like, use a decent quality accurate gauge for
this not the O/E one.
How about getting an oil analysis done to see if bearing materials are
present in the oil.
Try and change to an oil with the preffered additive package.
Use only genuine Toyota oil filters.
Remember not all vehicles suffer from "BEBitis".
Regards Gareth Jones.
 
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On 8/9/06, Niall Sommers <[Email address removed]> wrote:
placed he said I was barmey, never heard of such a failure & had no idea how many million hours it would take him to figure out what was required and put it right.
Nial,
That's alarming! Paying labour charges of =A395 p/h one is forgiven to
think your friendly Toyota mechanic reads technical bulletins and
tries to remember more important points.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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Hi Niall
I think you need a new Toyota dealer, cause they all should know, its common
knowledge to these guys I think.
I dont know where he is coming from about not knowing what to do to change
the BEBs.
I checked at my Toy garage a good while back and as far as I can remember
was told it would take about four hours to do the job and the stuff is not
too dear either to buy.
If you want I can enquire at my Toy about it and get back to you ot failing
that you can get it done in Carlow by the guys who rebuilt my engine.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Hi John,
You are forgetting deniability in New Zealand the big end problem NEVER
occurred according to Toyota NZ. A bit like the three monkeys one with
his hands jammed over his ears heard no evil, one with his hands over
eyes never saw any evil and the one with his hand over his mouth never
spoke no evil. Just like hilux 2.8L engines never crack heads or run big
ends in NZ.
Cheers,
Craig.
John Byrne wrote:
 
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Gareth
100%.
No symptons so will do oil analysis.
Thanks
Niall
 
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Thanks John
Will investigate further and if I need your contact - will let you know
Niall
 
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Hi Niall,
In an analysis you are looking for abnormal levels of aluminium and tin,
or if the bearings have been changed to aftermarket they maybe copper
lead brg's. While you are at it you want the calcium level to be in
excess of 3000ppm for brg protection.
Cheers,
Craig.
Niall Sommers wrote:
 
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Craig - et al
Re keeping oil with calcium level to be in excess of 3000ppm for brg protection.
Any idea what brand oil has calcium levels over 3000ppm??
Was just onto Castrol - their highest calcium levels are in Magnatec @ 2300ppm.....
Cheers
Niall
 
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Hey Niall
Amsoil has what you want in the 15w 40 range. But its really expensive and
you cant get it in Ireland.
I have to get it in the UK.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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John
Where do you get it from? Hope you don't mind me asking...
Jeremy
HDJ81 ++
On 10/8/06 16:57, "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Jeremy Llewellyn-Jones
Mob: 07831 458 793
--
 
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Re expensive 3000ppm oil
Thanks John
Sounds like the alcoholic LC is about to develop a taste for top shelf whiskey now!!!
Apparently Guinness has 500,000ppm of calcium - no fear of my BeB's developing premature wear!!!
Good luck
Niall
 
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Hey Niall
I knew I had it somewhere, the Amsoil 15w40 has 3725 ppm calcium.
I dont know which of their oils would be good for the cold weather like you
get Lubo but im sure Craig knows.
We just get rain and more rain and very little snow in winter.
I have been thinking about the lower viscosity oil maybe after a few times
using the 15w40 but the issue I have is my cruiser likes to drink a little
oil and not give it back.
I have been keeping a close eye on it since change over because I was
alarmed at it drinking close to 6 litres extra in 5000 miles. But it has
calmed down a good bit since then. So Maybe if I go to a lower viscosity it
would drink more and that would be just too expensive to keep going.
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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On 8/10/06, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Six litres? John, did you forget to plug the sump after an oil change?
Maybe new piston rings would be a better idea than better than another oil?
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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Hi Niall,
In know particular order that I know of,
Castrol J-MAX 15w40 should be OK as it was designed for japanese diesel
engines, but I have not see an oil analysis on it so don't know what the
Ca level is.
Caltex CXJ 15W40
All of the OEM japanese oils but most are illeagal for sale in europe
due to excessive volatility.
Amsoil 15W40 PCO synthetic blend heavy duty diesel oil
Amsoil 15W40 AME marine oil heavy duty diesel oil
Amsoil 10W30 ACD heavy duty diesel oil
Amsoil 5W30 HDD series 3000 heavy duty diesel oil (my favourite it seems
to be abuse proof)
Some of the high performance full synthetic diesel oils sold in europe
are likely to be fine (we don't get them in NZ) as they are designed as
long drain diesel oils and longer drains also encourage japanese style
additive packages. Total may have something
Cheers,
Craig.
NB: It is amazing Castrol told you that normally the std response is
that is commercially sensitive which is a joke as an oil analysis will
tell you the level straight away.
Niall Sommers wrote:
 
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Hi Roman,
John's engine is fresh from a major rebuild, but I wonder if it was run
in properly, as john should not have to put up with it's thirst for oil.
Craig.
Roman wrote:
 
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Hey Craig
The engine was run in as per the guys instructions who put it back together
again.
I paid more attention to how I drove for the next year than I ever did,
looking at the rev counter like I was hypnotized by the little movement.
Making sure I did not strain the engine, taking off slowly and with the auto
box it was always in the right gear.
Checking the oil level on a daily basis, lisentening to all sorts of sounds
just in case, changing the oil at 500 miles, 1000 miles, 3000 miles and
there after every 3000 miles ever after that. So unless I left something out
that i should have done im none the wiser at the moment.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Craig,
I guess you are right. Six litres of oil leaking trough piston rings
would have led to lot of bandwidth traffic about dense blue smoke and
lack of power. But oil does not evaporate - it can either get burned
or drip on the driveway.
My freshly rebuilt engine (rehoned liners, new rings, stem seals, etc)
uses 100ml -150ml of oil in 5000m. Maybe we should ask John to explain
how he came up with the figure of six litres :)
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
On 8/11/06, Craig Vincent <[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
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Hey Roman
To answer your question.
No blue or any other colour smoke only when I put the foot down to over
take, and not a drop on the driveway.
The power is fine when warmed up.
I bought 50 litres last year and have 22 litres left which means I used 28
litres so far.
This was used on two complete fills at 20 litres and the rest as top ups.
So 22 litres left, 10 in the cruiser sump and 7 left from the first drain.
So a total of 39 litres and the rest has been eaten up by the cruiser.
I am using the first drain as top ups as it was very usable according to the
analisis I had done with a lot of use still left in it.
I changed the oil before I had the analisis report back, being a bit over
cautious I think.
I will be doing another oil analisis at a later stage and will know then how
I am fixed.
I would love to get this sorted for once and for all but have not got the
money to get it done.
I see you can get a complete engine rebuild kit on ebay (item no 4649153569)
for about ?500 but the problem then is getting a guy to do it properly.and
the cost of him doing that.
So i guess ill have to live with it or burn it out and I like it too much to
do that.
I know what the problem is when im asleep someone takes it from the cruiser
cause they are too mean to buy their own.
So Roman where did you get yours done and what was the cost.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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On 8/11/06, John Byrne <[Email address removed]> wrote:
Hello John,
You run on expensive oil, don't you? Sounds credible ...
I borrowed an engine lift and bought a crate of beer to persuade my
friend to come and help me doing it in front of my garage. Hearing
other guys' stories I guess I was lucky.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
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