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Billing (fixed the poor idle on hills)

G

Guest

Guest
Hi All
Wish I was going but considering the amount still to do at home and in the
car I will not be able to make it. By the way I found out the cause of the
shaky idle when facing up hill. Removed the fuel filter and it was filthy
with a nasty brown sticky sludge around the water float. Installed new one
and smooth and stable idle again!! Did have a look in the tank and there is
some brown stuff on the bottom but the tank seems rust free and the pick up
was clear. So no more shaking. Next is the ABS system.
Regards
Simon Hughes
 
Hi Simon,
Did you try blowing the pipe through from the tank to the filter - I got a
fair amount of sludge from there.
I also used a basting (cooking) pipette to remove the crud from the bottom of
the tank.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Julian
I did not try to blow down the pipe but I will next year when it come time
to replace the fuel filter again. Billing sounds like a load of fun and I
am annoyed that yet again my weekends are not mine to enjoy.
Renate, it sounds like you are too strong for your own good? Stupid
question as I know the answer but how did you manage to break a wheel bolt?
I have been taking mine wheels off far too regularly and I did think I might
be tightening them too much when I am too lazy to get out the torque wrench.
How easy is it to break one?
Regards
Simon Hughes
Principal Consultant
Tel: +44 (0) 207 2504710
Mob: +44 (0) 7973 288061
E-Mail: [Email address removed]
Website: www.marshallwarburton.co.uk
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On 7/13/05, Simon Hughes <[Email address removed]> wrote:
ch.
Simon,
Getting the stud broken is a lesser problem than overtightening. If it
breaks you know instantly you did something wrong. If you overtighten
it, you go beyond the threshold of material yield and into the region
of plasticity. That means the bolt is elongated too much and will not
contract back to retain the pressure with which the nut is held
against the surface. In other words, without a warning the wheel nuts
will become lose and may work themself out at some point. Retightening
the nuts only works for a while because each timethe bolt is stretched
even further.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80
 
The other thing to be careful of if over tightening is damaging the
actual wheel, particularly if running alloys.
If my memory serves me right, alloys should be torqued to around 80-
90ft/lbs whereas steels should be torqued to around 110 ft/lbs.
Once you have torqued yours a few times you should get a reasonable
feel for what is about right.
If you have had the wheels off, it is always worth checking the torque
on them around a hundred miles or so later, just to make sure they are
still OK.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Guys
I have to join in here, silly question but how do you know what the correct
torgue is when doing it. I have always tightened the wheel nuts untill they
are tight, I did not know there had to be a special pressure used. I got my
new wheels on today and now im concerned about the torgue, he used the
compressure powered tool, so now what do I do, is there a tool to buy, I
have a hand wrench, I supose thats no good now is it. Is there anything that
is straight forward on the cruisers. Thanks for giving me one more thing to
think about.
John C
92HDJ 80 1HDT Ireland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Julian Voelcker" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 13, 2005 2:48 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] Billing (fixed the poor idle on hills)
 
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Hi John,
Always try to avoid that - professional fitters should use a torque
wrench to make sure that the nuts are done to the correct torque - air
powered hammer guns always tend to over tighten them.
Get yourself a torque wrench, loosen off the wheel nuts and then torque
them up correctly.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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