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Brake load vavle issues

Craigmorley

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Joined
Apr 26, 2014
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Can I just do away with load valve and put a T piece in instead of it?? As I'll never load it up always empty....?
 
Well for me that's precisely the problem. When empty, the rear brakes may come on too hard too early and cause the rear end to skid out, especially in the wet. For controllable braking, it's essential that the front brakes take the lead role, otherwise you'll spin out of control. JMHO.
 
We'll that makes sence to me too Clive but reason for asking is the brakes on my lj are shocking every since I've had it the peddle goes to the floor on the stop and it roles to a stop no hard braking atal tbh
I've bled and bled them but still same new copper lines and hoses still does same thing load sensor valve is the only thing that I can't bleed as so corroded and bleed nipple is pretty nonexistent really so thought I don't go fast in it atall and that just seemed like easiest and cheapest option really? Or I can get a manual load valve and do it that way??
 
We'll that makes sence to me too Clive but reason for asking is the brakes on my lj are shocking every since I've had it the peddle goes to the floor on the stop and it roles to a stop no hard braking atal tbh
I've bled and bled them but still same new copper lines and hoses still does same thing load sensor valve is the only thing that I can't bleed as so corroded and bleed nipple is pretty nonexistent really so thought I don't go fast in it atall and that just seemed like easiest and cheapest option really? Or I can get a manual load valve and do it that way??

The brakes on my 70 are spot on. I had new brakes callipers & pads installed and it stops perfect now.

Think after 20 years these old machines need a calliper overall.
 
You could run a by-pass pipe to see what effect it has Craig. But I'd leave the LSPV or whatever its acronym is, in place just in case you need it.

No pressure, assuming no leaks, sounds to me like the master. Have you bled from pedal pressure or a pressure kit? I ask because it sounds like the master is simply not pushing fluid through, certainly not at a rate to pressurize the cylinders.

Otherwise, can't think what it could be...:think:
 
You can replace the LSPV with an adjustable aftermarket type but there maybe some legalities involved. But removing it altogether is a no no. You don't mention if it has discs all round or disc front ,drum rear or even what model it is so its a bid hard to pin point the problem.
In any case, pulling bits off to make up for faulty parts or lack of maintenance will not work.
As Yorkshire Devil stated, you can get them to work with the right parts etc.
 
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Any news Craig?


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Clive you and mister cruiser nailed it lol thanks it works brilliant now
 
Bravo, result!
Now I've seen it on the other post too [emoji122]
 
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