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brake master cylinder

Higgy

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Hi to all.(again) looks like I need a new brake master cylinder..there are plenty on ebay with lots of different prices.. can anyone recommend one? milners don't seem bad at £60 anyone had one of theirs ... are there ones to avoid.. thanks Higgy
 
Hi to all.(again) looks like I need a new brake master cylinder..there are plenty on ebay with lots of different prices.. can anyone recommend one? milners don't seem bad at £60 anyone had one of theirs ... are there ones to avoid.. thanks Higgy
Not to worrie ive orderd one..
 
What's up with the old one
I presume it was u/s. brakes started to get spongy with pedal gradually going to the floor.when I pumped brakes hard and fast when stationary the red symbol would come on the dash (not the abs symbol). I bled the system twice and checked thoroughly for leaks. this to me seemed to point at master cylinder. so I changed it. all was well until today now its gone back to the same symptoms.. any advice. .... no fluid loss or leaks anywhere
 
Seals probably gone in the MC to begin with; I think you're right. OK so did you bleed the new master cyl? I don't mean the brakes but the actual cylinder itself?
 
Seals probably gone in the MC to begin with; I think you're right. OK so did you bleed the new master cyl? I don't mean the brakes but the actual cylinder itself?
Hi chris. thanks for the heads up. I did struggle bleeding the brakes up, started at the rears but no luck. so I did the fronts first then the rears bled up fine then did the fronts again. and all was fine good pressure all round. was not aware of bleeding the MC first... but brakes have gone spongy again.ps do you bleed the M/C via the 10mm head bolt underneath the M/C ? I assumed that was probably for draining when removing the old one...
 
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All depends on the cyl Higgy. I can't say for sure from your post, but the idea is that you have someone gently press the pedal with a pipe removed or maybe that 10mm headed bolt then with your finger over the hole, the pedal needs to come back up. This is to ensure that you push air out from the two seals and slurp fluid back in. It can be trapped in there otherwise. It's just like bleeding the brakes down, finger in hole, up, release finger, down etc
 
All depends on the cyl Higgy. I can't say for sure from your post, but the idea is that you have someone gently press the pedal with a pipe removed or maybe that 10mm headed bolt then with your finger over the hole, the pedal needs to come back up. This is to ensure that you push air out from the two seals and slurp fluid back in. It can be trapped in there otherwise. It's just like bleeding the brakes down, finger in hole, up, release finger, down etc
Thanks Chris. I know exactly what you mean.. my fault just didn't think I needed to bleed the master cylinder. thought I could top the new one up bleed the brakes and off I go...
 
Hey, not saying this is the answer, but it IS the procedure for a new MC.
 
If you're pumping the pedal and the red light comes on usually means low fluid. Does the pedal sink slowly when the engine is running? Try turning the engine off and then pump the brakes until the vacuum has gone and finally push really hard to see if the pedal sinks. I'd be more inclined to take a close look at the calliper seals or leaks in the system. The pedal sinking when the engine is running seems to be a Toyota problem, especially with diesels as they tend to over vacuum on the servo, a lot of testers fail this on the MOT without checking the brake feel with the engine off.
 
If you're pumping the pedal and the red light comes on usually means low fluid. Does the pedal sink slowly when the engine is running? Try turning the engine off and then pump the brakes until the vacuum has gone and finally push really hard to see if the pedal sinks. I'd be more inclined to take a close look at the calliper seals or leaks in the system. The pedal sinking when the engine is running seems to be a Toyota problem, especially with diesels as they tend to over vacuum on the servo, a lot of testers fail this on the MOT without checking the brake feel with the engine off.
Thanks Tim.. its as you described basically. with the engine off the brake is hard and does not go to the floor start the engine and then becomes spongy and slowly goes to the floor. its still driveable and the brakes are ok you just need to have a few dabs at the brake and all is good. il bleed up the MC today and the brake system again ...... all the discs and pads are like new ive gone over the whole thing checking for leaks and all looks good. Thanks anyway. cheers
 
Did you bleed the load sensing valve as well ? It's up above and to the rear of the back axle on the right hand side, attached to the chassis rail. Sometimes it does take a few all round bleeds to firm things up nicely.
 
Did you bleed the load sensing valve as well ? It's up above and to the rear of the back axle on the right hand side, attached to the chassis rail. Sometimes it does take a few all round bleeds to firm things up nicely.
Thanks flint.NO I havnt touched the load sensing valve in about 6 years... looking at it if I touch it im gonna open up that can of worms. so il leave well alone I think.. ive been too busy today to look at anything il have a crack tomorrow .. thanks anyway
 
Keep bleeding them and you should get something resembling decent brakes although from what I've read the Landcruiser brakes aren't that good at the best of times. The sinking pedal seems to be the norm, mine will go to the floor if I press the pedal down hard for any length of time with the engine running.
 
Keep bleeding them and you should get something resembling decent brakes although from what I've read the Landcruiser brakes aren't that good at the best of times. The sinking pedal seems to be the norm, mine will go to the floor if I press the pedal down hard for any length of time with the engine running.
Thanks Tim.. your right about the brakes being not that brilliant..apart from tractors this is the first auto ive ever owned or driven I just put it down to being an auto was the reason there not brilliant... I do like the auto box tho.... thanks..don't know if the manual has the same issues
 
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