brakes

G

Guest

Guest
Hi Guys
I had a nice long trip today and found that my brake pedal feels different
when pressed. Apart from the better responce and better braking I fell the
pedal is king of lumpy or shuttering king of feel. I know the pads on the
rear will take a while to break in but I can feel movement at intermitant
intervals when the pedal is pressed.
Could this be a bad disc or the new pads adjusting to the old discs. What
are the discs from Milner like.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT Rep of Ireland
 
G

Guest

Guest
John,
You could have a warped disc, not uncommon with cruisers, there
is a lot of heat generated stopping 2.5 tons. To be nice about it,
Milner pads are best stopped away from. I have EBC pads in mine and I
have no complaints. All of the known makes should be OK, Axxis,
Mintex, Ferodo.
Regards, Clive.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hey Clive
Thanks for that, sorry but I was asking about their discs as I know about
their pads and Mr T just put new pads on mine anyway. But Yea I was thinking
about the warped disc/discs, I would say mine are the original and the
fronts have a nice deep ridge on them.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
John,
Check them carefully, I thought my front ones were warped but it
was the back.
Regards, Clive.
 
Don't like the adverts? Remove them by becoming a supporting member.   Click here
G

Guest

Guest
Hi guys
I would like to know if any one has tried the drilled/slotted discs and
performance pads like Kevlar.
I have changed all my discs and put new OME pads on and I still fell the
brakes are not good.
I know the pads need to be run in and had hoped for a better pedal when they
did but it has not happened.
Also I notice a lot of dust from the front pads which I did not get or see
before this complete change of pads and discs.
cheers
john 92 HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
Was that because you had no linings left on the old pads?? ;-)
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of John Byrne
Sent: 10 July 2006 13:38
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] brakes
Hi guys
I would like to know if any one has tried the drilled/slotted discs and
performance pads like Kevlar.
I have changed all my discs and put new OME pads on and I still fell the
brakes are not good.
I know the pads need to be run in and had hoped for a better pedal when they
did but it has not happened.
Also I notice a lot of dust from the front pads which I did not get or see
before this complete change of pads and discs.
cheers
john 92 HDJ 80 1HDT

--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.10/383 - Release Date: 07/07/2006
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
I know some people in the states that have gone that route. If I was looking
at putting together an LC for overlanding, I would definitely go that way,
somethig that many people ognore, despite adding stacks of extra weight.
What pads have you put on?
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi
Thanks for the reply, the pads are Toyota as always.
The pads were replaced to bed in better to the new discs.
It just seems strange that I have never seen black dust covering the front
wheels before.
I had an idea that maybe the rear was not working but when I stopped I
checked and there was some heat build up in the rear discs so they must be
working, Right.
The guy who put them on told me the ones he was taking off were finished but
when he showed me them they looked like new apart from the dents from his
screw driver removing them, funny that.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Guys
Just been in toutch with the people on the other side of the big pond and as
usual I have a few questions.
Are the 80 series that they have the same as ours exept for the engines.
I mean will all other bits fit like discs/pads etc or is this going to be
something I will have wished I did not get into in the first place.
cheers
john
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
I put Bendix kevlar 4wd pads on my truck part #DB13654WD they are meant
for a 100 series but my truck has the bigger disc rotors than yours as
it is a 1996. A friend changed his wheel brg's recently while I
supervised, the shop that selss the bendix pads was shut so we put
Toyota 100 series pads in his and Hamish's truck is a 92 like yours. The
pads were too big to go straight in the mainly fouled on the minor
diameter of the disc hub, with a bit of judicious trimming with the
angle grinder the slipped in, they are much thicker pads too so we could
not refit the anti rattle shims but still got the stainless heat shields
back in. If you have a lip on the edge of the discs you will have to
sand/file that off. As hamish had the rotors off to do the wheel bearing
change we just wiped over both sides of the disc with a sanding disc on
the angle grinder to polish off the outside edge lip. I don't like
remachining discs, as I have been caught with poorly machined rotors in
the past, and you then have to reseason the rotors and rebreak in pads
to the rotors (ideally you should not break in new rotors with new pads).
Hamish headed home, 150 miles away, and soon as he got home he rang me
and said the truck is competely different to drive it now stops.
In regards cross drilled and slotted, there has been plenty of debate on
the australian lists, the genearal consensus was that slotted is good
but cross drilled tend to pack with mucd then crack. The Australian
made DBS kangaroo paw rotors have a differnet internal finning to OEM
that improves cooling and a higher compressive strength to improve brake
feel http://www.dba.com.au/default.asp on this page the top right or
'DBA slotted' is a good upgrade over stock. Your truck has the early
small diameter brake rotors.
This is a good explanation
http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/HTML/pdf/Out/Application_Chart.pdf
it is only one page. As is this
http://www.dba.com.au/dba_catalogue_2004/HTML/Kangarooseries/kangaroo_index.htm
Cheers,
Craig.
John Byrne wrote:
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
The disks and calipers changed according to the year, but essentially they
should be the same either side of the pond.
As far as I can remember there was a change to disk and caliper size in 1992
and then again in 1995.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
The key thing with the disks is the actual thickness of them - if they get too
thin they heat up too quickly which leads to brake fade and if they heat up too
much they can warp causing steering wobble, etc.
Whilst the old disks might look OK, they could well be too thin - one quick way
to check is to see if there is a lip on the outer edge of the brake surface -
if the lip is around 1mm or more the chances are the disks as either past it or
on their way out.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hey Julian and Graig
Thanks for the replys.
I have new discs courtisy of Milner all around and new
pads from Toy and new rear calipers and still fell the pedal is soft.
Geese I know im fussy at times and when you have to stop over two ton of
moving metal when you want to
I think I should be very very fussy.
Id have a look at them but sure that would be like me looking into a jumbo
jet cock pit and asking me where the wiper switch was for the windscreen.
I need to learn what is what but cant find somone who will do this with me.
I will not toutch certain things on my own as even when I was a child I
always had bits left over from building kits and an extra dap of glue always
held that misaligned piece in place.
Ah life is cruel and I dont want to toutch them just in case I ---- them up.
I dont want to go back to the Toy parts fitter as he has had three attemps
at them and still cant diagnose and I still have a rubbing sound that is
metal to metal when the cruiser is moving from the rear wheel.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi J
I wonder if the handbrake is rubbing slightly? Can you feel any heat
coming from the rear wheels?? Is one wheel hotter that the other??
Rubbing metal generates heat so you will eventually find it.
All the best


Simon Hughes
www.stratasearch.co.uk

Tel: 020 7549 3663
Mobile: 07973 288061
Mail: [Email address removed]
 
G

Guest

Guest
Soft pedals usually from.
-renew your brake fluid and bleed the complete system, air bubbles or
sealing breakdown.
-any leakage anywhere?
-check your brake lines, they can become tired over time.
-Main brake cilinder lost some of it's compression.
New discs and pads all around, you can have the odd metal to metal screetch
as your pads are bedding in.
For minimum hassle, use OEM new or OEM exchange. Your Toy didn't screatch
when new, why should it now???
Or maybe your metal to metal when it's moving is something completly
different.
Regards
Chris
Toy HDJ80 1994, 2.5" OME, intercooled,
285/75R16 BFG AT
Belgium
http://shop.kapaza.be/Colleman/
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes
 
G

Guest

Guest
John
I had that metal to metal sound last time I had the break pads and handbreak shoes changed - it turned out to be the handbreak & went away after a few hours driving
Niall
'95 HDJ81
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Guys
Thanks for the interest.
Its not bedding in as they are on now 1 month.
The noise is intermittant when the rear wheel is turning.
I took the wheel off but that was as far as I could go (very dodgy back).
I dont know if the fluid was changed when he did the discs, I would have
thought so, But then who knows.
I dont know if the pipes are ok and would not know by looking at them
anyway.
No leaks anywhere,
how would I know if the main cylinder was losing pressure, and what do you
do if it is.
This sounds like it could go on and on and really do my head in in the
process.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
----- Original Message -----
From: "R/C Colleman" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
Have you got yourself a manual yet - even a Haynes manual will be good
enough for you to learn from.
I'm not proposing that you dive in a start fixing all the problems
yourself. JB + Spanner is too much of a nightmare to consider, however
by using the manual as a reference it should help you get a better
understanding.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
G

Guest

Guest
Ok so we can eliminate the bedding down issue.
Get hold of a mechanic that will actually bleed through your complete brake
system.
Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years.
Sealing breakdown, i.e. rubber in your brake fluid will act as a cushion and
give you a
soft breaking feeling. Same as small air bubbles.
If that is out rulled out, then another step along the brake line of attack.
Regards
Chris
Toy HDJ80 1994, 2.5" OME, intercooled,
285/75R16 BFG AT
Belgium
http://shop.kapaza.be/Colleman/
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Byrne" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi John,
What exactly is the noise like - is it a low grinding noise or a squeal type
noise?
Does it get worse when going round corners or when heavily loaded?
Bearing in mind that the rear brakes and disks have been stripped down,
unless your mechanic was a complete dunce it is unlikely to be a problem
there.
If there is a grinding noise, have you looked at the rear prop shaft. You
need to either put the car on level ground in Neutral with the handbrake off
or jack up the wheels of the ground (preferred option). Slide yourself in
under the car, grasp the prop shaft and then twist it back and forth to see
if there is any movement at the Universal Joint. Also try to move the shaft
from side to side.
Whilst you are down there see if there are any obstructions around the prop
shaft that could be rubbing.
If you have had no luck down there and have the rear of the vehicle jacked up
off the ground (and supported by axle stands), try a couple of things:
Take hold of each rear wheel at 12 and 6 oclock and try to wobble it to see
if there is any movement in the wheel bearings.
If there isn't any movement just try spinning the wheels (you need the car in
neutral for this and it's not going to be that easy) to see if you can
recreate the noise.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks