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brakes

Hi John,
As I said I suspect it is down to low revs - how far do they drop when you put
the car in gear.
It's called the load volume screw and is from memory positioned just above the
point at the back of the pump where the fuel is distributed to the injectors.
The screw has a 6mm hex head as well as a flat cut in it for a screwdriver and
is locked by a 12mm nut.
ISTR that you turn it clockwise to increase the fueling and anticlockwise to
reduce the fueling. Only adjust in 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn increments and make a
note of exactly what changes you make each time so that you can keep track of
it.
I suggest that you tweak it, then take it for a run up a local hill watching
carefully for smoke out the back and then tweak again until you strike the
balance of a little bit of smoke under hard acceleration or driving up hill,
but nothing noticeable when driving normally on the flat.
If you don't get the 90 degree exhaust pipe at the back it will be difficult to
spot without someone driving behind you monitoring it.
Another thing to note, you obviously need to do the smoke test when the engine
is warm and also you may well find that the tickover revs increase a bit as the
engine becomes properly fuelled.
A local injection company actually suggest intially adjusting the fuelling to
the point where the tickover has risen to it's highest point and then work from
there to adjust for smoke.
Generally whiteish smoke means under fuelling and black smoke indicates over
fuelling.
Also note, when you do the adjustment, hold the LV screw tightly in position
when you tighten up the locking nut, otherwise it will move.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Julian
The revs drop from 800 to 600 when put in gear.
As i say Toyota checked the engine mounts and gear box mounts and all are
fine.
I did not look at the pump yet and may put it off untill after the weekend
just in case I f--- it up cause we are going off and I dont want it to be
cannelled cause of my blunder if it happens.
I just have to say that my brakes are really good I cant believe its the
same cruiser.
I also took it for a drive along our typical Irish so called main roads,
which if you have driven them are more like bog bumpy, uneven, etc etc .
Since fitting the OME steering damper upgrade the difference in the handling
and responsiveness in the steering is brilliant.
No more wandering into the dips and it behaves itself very well and requires
less effort to keep it in the middle of the side of the road.
I really should have done this ages ago.
The one thing I will be interested in seeing is if it is more tiring to
drive on long journeys because the steerring returns to centre with more
force and requires more force to turn it.
Just a tad more pressure but over hours of driving I wonder.
Ill know after the weekend for sure and will let you know cause if it helps
to improve the stability of the cruiser well why not have one fitted.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Julian Voelcker" <[Email address removed]>
To: <[Email address removed]>
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2006 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes
 
Hi John,
OK, that is too much of a difference.
Bearing in mind that you have checked the rrest of the fuel system I would go
straight for adjusting the load volume screw.
Excellent news.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Has any body hade or got soft brake pedal its hard when motors not running
but as soon as I start it. It goes very soft
I have don a complete fluid change and new pads hdj80 97 help;
 
Hi Robert
Had the same problem along with a brake pedal shutter for a while.
Had Toyota do some work on the cruiser and had them bleed the brakes aswell.
The brakes were still very soft so decided to go where I had not gone before and bleed the brakes twice more using a lot of fluid.
It worked well but still dont have a really hard brake which I would like.
I still have the shutter on the brake pedal even after replacing all the pads/ discs and rear calipers.
I even had them change all the wheel bearings, now I have scretching noises from two hubs.
Its going back into Toyota next week so ill ask them to check for what is causing the pedal shutter.
Try changing the fluid again it might work or maybe a brake hose is faulty.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
----- Original Message -----
From: ROBERT SEABORN
To: [Email address removed]
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 7:27 PM
Subject: [ELCO] brakes
Has any body hade or got soft brake pedal its hard when motors not running but as soon as I start it. It goes very soft
I have don a complete fluid change and new pads hdj80 97 help;
 
Hi Guys
Just need a bit of your knowledge as usual.
Less than a year ago I replaced all the discs (milner) and pads ( genuine) on the cruiser but I was never quite happy.
Soon afterwards I began to get thick dust on the front wheels which I never had before when using the genuine pads.
I also began to get a foot pedal shutter when the brakes were applied.
I have done about 9000 miles and have been hearing the squal from the front brakes so had Toyota have a look and they say it needs new pads on the front.
Ok not a problem but I am suspicious and cant help it after all the plonkers I have had contact with in relation to the cruiser and its problems.
Now could a warped disk cause such prmature wear on the pads.
Or could I be right in thinking that the pads were not changed at all the last time or switched for inferior ones by the guy who fitted them.
Its just the last set of pads done about 45,000 miles over four years and did not produce any thick redish dust on the wheels.
I have asked Toyota to keep the pads they remove and keep the pads from each wheel seperate.
I was also thinking that if this pad change does not clear up the pedal shutter I might in time get new discs , the ones that are slotted and drilled and the next size up from I think 93 on..
And maybe change the calipers to the larger size, so over all I should have a much better stopping ability. What do you think.
cheers
john
92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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Hi John,
This is not unusual with the Milner pads - I personally will always go
for original Toyota - brakes are one are you shouldn't cut corners on.
OK. This could possibly be a warped disk. If the front disks are
overtightened they can warp.
Also, when fitting new disks and pads you need to take it steady so
that they bed in properly.
Ideally you need to do several runs up to around 50-60mph and then
brake hard, but release the brakes before you stop - if you stop still
with the hot pads on the disk it can cause problems with the brake
surface. Once you have done this a few times it should bed them in
properly.
I wouldn't be surprised with the Milner pads and also if you have
problems with the disk surface. When the dealer changes the pads, get
them to check to see if the disks are warped.
Yes.
Also a possibility.
You can't upgrade the disks without also upgrading the calipers - the
bigger disks won't fit in the older callipers.
You might also consider going to better pads - Bendix do some that are
a recommended upgrade on the Toyota ones.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
Mobile: 07971 540362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hey Julian
Thanks for the reply but only the discs are Milners the pads are Toyota
which is why im surprised.
Id never use pads other than Toyota as this was one of the first bits of
advice I received.
I know the calipers would need to be changed to the next year change but
wondered if anyone had experience of the drilled/slotted discs.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
John
I replaced all the brake pads on l'beast about 2 years ago myself - the
brake pads were from Milners and I didn't have any real dust buildup. I've
checked them and the wear is not as expected, in fact, not much at all. I
would have expected to see much greater wear because of the speeds I do.
I was not happy about my own attempts to change and replace brake pads but I
must have done it okay. I've done about 3,000 miles on them since replacing
them.
They were checked by the (defected) toyo man mechanic pal of mine last week
and he reported they were fine - nothing to report. Maybe I just don't use
the brakes much at all. I expected greater wear but haven't seen it on any
of the wheels, front or rear. I use engine braking in preference - don't
know whether this might help your problem in the future, but if they are
replaced again consider changing from brake power to engine braking
power...and see how it responds. - My 1 euros worth.
MOT is due at the end of the month - I'm expecting it will fail on
emissions, but it might not.
cheers
Renate
-----Original Message-----
From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]]On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 02 August 2007 20:40
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: [ELCO] brakes
Hi Guys
Just need a bit of your knowledge as usual.
Less than a year ago I replaced all the discs (milner) and pads ( genuine)
on the cruiser but I was never quite happy.
Soon afterwards I began to get thick dust on the front wheels which I
never had before when using the genuine pads.
I also began to get a foot pedal shutter when the brakes were applied.
I have done about 9000 miles and have been hearing the squal from the
front brakes so had Toyota have a look and they say it needs new pads on the
front.
Ok not a problem but I am suspicious and cant help it after all the
plonkers I have had contact with in relation to the cruiser and its
problems.
Now could a warped disk cause such prmature wear on the pads.
Or could I be right in thinking that the pads were not changed at all the
last time or switched for inferior ones by the guy who fitted them.
Its just the last set of pads done about 45,000 miles over four years and
did not produce any thick redish dust on the wheels.
I have asked Toyota to keep the pads they remove and keep the pads from
each wheel seperate.
I was also thinking that if this pad change does not clear up the pedal
shutter I might in time get new discs , the ones that are slotted and
drilled and the next size up from I think 93 on..
And maybe change the calipers to the larger size, so over all I should
have a much better stopping ability. What do you think.
cheers
john
92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
Hi Guys
Today is dry so I should be able to bleed the brakes.
I cleaned the disc with white spirit and it made no difference at all.
So if bleeding does not work ill have to get the pads changed.
Anyway are the bleeding valves the ones with a little rubber cover over them at about half way up the caliper.
Do I need to have the engine running to bleed.

cheers
john 92 HDJ 80 1HDT
 
Hi Guys
Well i have messed up somthing, I know its hard to believe but I can easly do that.
I bleed the brakes and now I have vertually no brake pedal at all.
All I did was open the nipple on each rear hub, one at a time , attached a little pipe and container and had my son pump the pedal with the engine on.
I bleed about one litre from the two rear nipples combined.
I could not find nipples on the front hubs.
When bleeding I made sure the fluid reservoir was toped up.
I had my son pump a few times and then closed the nipple.
Should I have done somthing different.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
Was the end of the pipe in the fluid? You need to maks sure air doesn=92t get
in to either the callipers or the master cylinder.

Malcolm Bagley
Stafford UK
FJ45 '75 & FJ45 '76

From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 29 October 2007 11:00
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes

When bleeding I made sure the fluid reservoir was toped up.
I had my son pump a few times and then closed the nipple.
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 28/10/2007
13:58
 
Hi Malcolm
Ok im not sure, I know its to do with air, maybe ill put a little fluid in the container and then try again.
Should I get my son to pump once and hold while I close the nipple or just get him to pump a few times.
Do I need to have the cap on the reservoir while im doing this.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
----- Original Message -----
From: Malcolm Bagley
To: [Email address removed]
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] brakes
Was the end of the pipe in the fluid? You need to maks sure air doesn=92t get in to either the callipers or the master cylinder.

Malcolm Bagley
Stafford UK
FJ45 '75 & FJ45 '76

From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 29 October 2007 11:00
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes

When bleeding I made sure the fluid reservoir was toped up.
I had my son pump a few times and then closed the nipple.
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 28/10/2007 13:58
 
Pump and hold, leave the cap of the reservoir so you can add fluid =96 don=92t
overfill it though.

Malcolm Bagley
Stafford UK
FJ45 '75 & FJ45 '76

From: [Email address removed] [mailto:[Email address removed]] On
Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 29 October 2007 11:10
To: [Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes

Hi Malcolm
Ok im not sure, I know its to do with air, maybe ill put a little fluid in
the container and then try again.
Should I get my son to pump once and hold while I close the nipple or just
get him to pump a few times.
Do I need to have the cap on the reservoir while im doing this.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:[Email address removed]"Malcolm Bagley
To: HYPERLINK "mailto:[Email address removed]"[Email address removed]
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: [ELCO] brakes

Was the end of the pipe in the fluid? You need to maks sure air doesn=92t get
in to either the callipers or the master cylinder.

Malcolm Bagley
Stafford UK
FJ45 '75 & FJ45 '76

From: HYPERLINK
"mailto:[Email address removed]"[Email address removed]
[mailto:[Email address removed]] On Behalf Of john byrne
Sent: 29 October 2007 11:00
To: HYPERLINK "mailto:[Email address removed]"[Email address removed]
Subject: Re: [ELCO] brakes

When bleeding I made sure the fluid reservoir was toped up.
I had my son pump a few times and then closed the nipple.

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 28/10/2007
13:58

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 28/10/2007
13:58
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1097 - Release Date: 28/10/2007
13:58
 
Hi John,
Yes, get your son to pump the brake and hold down - you then open the
valve and let the fluid/air out and then close it when the pressure
subsides - then get him to release the pedal.
The nipples on the front calipers are facing the rear of the vehicle at
the top - should be easy to find.
ISTR - do rear right, front left, rear left, front right and then the
brake proportioning valve able the rear axle.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi John,
Yes, get your son to pump the brake and hold down - you then open the
valve and let the fluid/air out and then close it when the pressure
subsides - then get him to release the pedal.
The nipples on the front calipers are facing the rear of the vehicle at
the top - should be easy to find.
ISTR - do rear right, front left, rear left, front right and then the
brake proportioning valve able the rear axle.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Thanks guys
I did the bleeding again and this time got a squirt of brake fluid on my
face, so had a look and there was a little crack in the hose I was using so
that explains the air getting in.
The brakes are fine now and only managed to bleed the rear , so is it
nessessery to bleed the fronts and the BPV. I still cant fine the nipples on
the front even had my son look and they are just not to be seen.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
SNIP
 
Hi Guys
Im still not happy with my brakes, I know im a moan but im lost inregards to this.
Can someone explain the reasoning behind bleeding the brakes in a particular way, something lik LB then RF then RB then LF.
I still cant find the nipple near or over the rear axle even with my glasses on, maybe I need stronger ones.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
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