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Buying a Colorado- What to look for?

Lorin

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Mar 28, 2010
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A friend of mine is going to look at a Colorado 3.0 diesel. Other than the usual LC stuff like hidden corrosion and checking all the buttons and levers do what they should, are there any particular things to look out for/check when viewing one?
 
Axle brackets for the upper control arms, common rust problem, also worth checking around the back for rust. Lots of difficult to clean areas where tin worm can develop. Normal things really.

I've just found a hole in my DS rear wheel arch :( and it looks like theres lots of mud inside the sill (another rust trap). Also found rust on the rear body mounts inside the boot, but you can't check this without taking out the interior panels
 
A friend of mine is going to look at a Colorado 3.0 diesel. Other than the usual LC stuff like hidden corrosion and checking all the buttons and levers do what they should, are there any particular things to look out for/check when viewing one?

D4D or 1KZ ? If the latter any evidence of head replacement, radiator replacement if its an auto. Saggy suspension, tired brakes, all things which may cost money to replace. He has to bear in mind its a 15+ year old 4x4 and unless its been a cherished thing it stands a 97% chance of being rough.
Like Mark says rear wheel arches, rear inner and outer sills, oh, and the bonnets can be prone on the leading edge towards the PS for some reason.
 
Rust rust and rust.

Check the water and gearbox oil.

Mine was spot on but some I have looked at have been shocking.
 
Contrary to what some jealous 80 owners will have you believe :whistle:

These are tough trucks so face value is all you got , the 1kz has been known to keep going without obvious symptoms up to a year after the head fails but it is known to fail .

If its an early D4D (it won't necessarily be badged as one) the engine is pretty much indestructible i.m.o .

History is probably the best indicator of what your getting because they all polish up very well .

All are at an age when bushes need changing , check the steering rack for leaks and moan about the crap retracting seatbelts as a bargaining chip - they are all crap even my new belts .
 
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that does have a good MOT history compared to a lot for sale I've checked :)
 
From looking at the pics i'd lay odds the seller hasn't owned it long so a wheeler dealer pro valet and quick turnaround . But that says nothing about the truck itself .

I don't like that its been wax oiled underneath because it hides what you need to see :think: weak or repaired axle turrets and rear body mounts should still be obvious though and if they are good then the rest should be .

He hasn't attempted to hide the scuffs either which suggests an honest approach .
 
Tbh ill be advertising mine in a month or so but if hes looking for a good one he welcome to come have a poke about !

P reg Prado import so better spec (unless you want a rear diff lock) and 8 years less of Uk roads. Also less miles and ill be asking slightly less ££££ :)
 
Check the rear diff lock actuator works.

Offside rear panel - previous accident damage and less than manufacturer quality repair?

Great trucks, loved mine.
 
As luck would have it.... my friend is also looking for a prado. But he is contemplating the 3.4l v6 petrol.

Anybody got input on those?
 
As luck would have it.... my friend is also looking for a prado. But he is contemplating the 3.4l v6 petrol.

Anybody got input on those?

I wouldn't rule one out, almost silent engine, stacks of power, some never had a tow bar. Better if you get a VX.
Got to be able to live with 16-23 to the gallon, mine averages 19. Better still if its got a good LPG already.
AFAIG the usual rules apply, you may have to search for a solid one.
Best still, they are 30-50% cheaper to buy and cheaper to tax than a diesel. Mine cost £235 to insure.
 
Don't think anyone has mentioned the lower control arms yet, if there is no history of them being changed then it wants to be first job on the list.

They have a habit of failing with very little warning.
 
Don't think anyone has mentioned the lower control arms yet, if there is no history of them being changed then it wants to be first job on the list.

They have a habit of failing with very little warning.

It might well be an idea to know how to check them out Ed. I should recon the petrol one will be ok at 70k but the black one at 150K might benefit from inspection.
 
I think Ed means the lower ball joints , i ruined a new one because mud got inside the boot and only noticed it because i happened to be looking at it as i lay on the floor jacking her up to get the drivers wheel off .

Beau is using original joints checked and good at over 200k i think .
 
Thank you all for your input. Turns out the current owner was only the second having owned it for 16 years. Everything appeared to be in good order with a decent history to support, so my mate bought it. Now to get him on the forum.....
 
Good stuff, it did look like a good one :D
 
Thanks for the input. This is the truck https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201709028895927?make=TOYOTA&model=LAND CRUISER COLORADO&r=4 Looking at the MOT history suggests it's been well looked after - almost no history of advisories!
Looks like a very tidy cruiser & a rare manual to boot.its had an easy life by the look of it so depending on what it's used for in the future it could need some investment.Mine was a similar purchase but one company owner never off roaded FSH etc.it was soon doing time in the forest skidding saw logs....this mean that a lot of original components wore out.
 
rust for me and if an auto check the rad but tbh they are cheap fix
 
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