Guys i need some brake caliper seal kits do we have a supplier cos i dont want to pay main dealer £££ cheers
caliper seal kits
- Thread starter PETE BELL
- Start date
Yep indeedy Mr Rubie, I got myself a set of him at Lincomb (all being well finally fitting them this weekend)
Nick.
Nick.
Ayup yoth, kind of, went to Silverstone For the best part of last week, had a fantastic time, great weather, race was awesome with decent result for GB, new track layout is also good for spectators, bought lots of new merch to look the part 
looking to book for next year already 
Also started new job at work so bin up to my neck with it !
Got that shi**y trip to the hospital tomorrow for teeth out, so taking a few days off work
, if I'm feeling ok by Sat I'll have a bash at the calipers, is thau knockin about this wickend if a wo to get stuck wi owt ?
Is thou OK ?
Nick.
looking to book for next year already Also started new job at work so bin up to my neck with it !
Got that shi**y trip to the hospital tomorrow for teeth out, so taking a few days off work
, if I'm feeling ok by Sat I'll have a bash at the calipers, is thau knockin about this wickend if a wo to get stuck wi owt ?Is thou OK ?
Nick.
Arm alreet ar kid. Silverstun woz tha? Thought tha meet. Saw it ont'box me, wi pint like.
Aye, arm a bout t'weekend Satdi and Sundi. Tha knows weer ta find us.
Youth.
Aye, arm a bout t'weekend Satdi and Sundi. Tha knows weer ta find us.
Youth.
Cheers mi duck !
Gorrareet wheel wobble on wi brakin nar, more so when its gora full load on !
Nick.
Gorrareet wheel wobble on wi brakin nar, more so when its gora full load on !
Nick.
Front brakes finally done
Problem #1 = getting the pistons out of the pots when they're a bit siezed, my solution (right or wrong?) using a pair of mole grips I twisted the pistons round and round, then using a lond flat bladed screwdriver and wedge I put the screwdriver under the lip and prized them out, I did try blowing them out with an airline, but as soon as the first one pops out that's the end of air pressure ! once all the pistons were out I gently filed off any burrs left under and around the ridge.
Next I removed the rubber boots and inner seals, then thoroughly cleaned everything using a parts cleaner and degreasant.
Then inserted the new inner seals, put the new boots onto the pistons and red veg grease on both the pistons and pots and pushed the pistons home, simples ! Next bit was a bl**dy nightmare, attaching the bubber boot to the caliper using the metal rings supplied
ideally you could do with 18 fingers and 4 hands to hold the boot down whilst fitting the ring, after about an hour I gave up with fiddling about and resorted to using a very small amount of superglue to hold the very edge down 
Job done, put caliper back on motor, did other side in half the time, then bled the whole system
It still has a very slight wobble on heavy braking, but I'm suspecting that because the brakes have been braking offset for some time that the pads have worn unevenly, so thats the next job to replace them, the discs were replaced last year so still in good nick.
When I phoned Chris to tell him about the superglue he said
When Chris did his he ensured that the rims were dry and used all his 18 fingers and 4 hands to do what I couldn't 
Nick.
Problem #1 = getting the pistons out of the pots when they're a bit siezed, my solution (right or wrong?) using a pair of mole grips I twisted the pistons round and round, then using a lond flat bladed screwdriver and wedge I put the screwdriver under the lip and prized them out, I did try blowing them out with an airline, but as soon as the first one pops out that's the end of air pressure ! once all the pistons were out I gently filed off any burrs left under and around the ridge.
Next I removed the rubber boots and inner seals, then thoroughly cleaned everything using a parts cleaner and degreasant.
Then inserted the new inner seals, put the new boots onto the pistons and red veg grease on both the pistons and pots and pushed the pistons home, simples ! Next bit was a bl**dy nightmare, attaching the bubber boot to the caliper using the metal rings supplied
ideally you could do with 18 fingers and 4 hands to hold the boot down whilst fitting the ring, after about an hour I gave up with fiddling about and resorted to using a very small amount of superglue to hold the very edge down Job done, put caliper back on motor, did other side in half the time, then bled the whole system It still has a very slight wobble on heavy braking, but I'm suspecting that because the brakes have been braking offset for some time that the pads have worn unevenly, so thats the next job to replace them, the discs were replaced last year so still in good nick.
When I phoned Chris to tell him about the superglue he said
When Chris did his he ensured that the rims were dry and used all his 18 fingers and 4 hands to do what I couldn't Nick.
hehehhee
had same hassle earlier in the year - and ... yes... I used superglue too!!
think maybe the solution is to bend the metal rings out so they are not as tight. there is nothing for the sods to slot into, so they keep slipping off
pig of a job because of them!
had same hassle earlier in the year - and ... yes... I used superglue too!!
think maybe the solution is to bend the metal rings out so they are not as tight. there is nothing for the sods to slot into, so they keep slipping off
pig of a job because of them!
Quote... and used all his 18 fingers and 4 hands to do what I couldn't
And that Nick is why I have only been married once
I did post on this the other week Nick. You need to capture the pots before they pop out. Same way we worked them back and forth a couple of weeks ago. Leave the caliper on and push them out with the brake pedal. Use the brake pad on its side to blank one of the two pots on one side then do the other, then swap sides and encourage the little blighted out one by one. Best to save a worn out set of pads to do this so that they come out as far as thy can without leaving the cylinder. Water pump pliers...... Well you did you used to be a BUTCHER!
If you try to twist them, the seal wrinkles up around the piston and effectively jams it. Twisting them is not good. 
Remember, up here for thinking, down there for dancing!
C
And that Nick is why I have only been married once
I did post on this the other week Nick. You need to capture the pots before they pop out. Same way we worked them back and forth a couple of weeks ago. Leave the caliper on and push them out with the brake pedal. Use the brake pad on its side to blank one of the two pots on one side then do the other, then swap sides and encourage the little blighted out one by one. Best to save a worn out set of pads to do this so that they come out as far as thy can without leaving the cylinder. Water pump pliers...... Well you did you used to be a BUTCHER!
If you try to twist them, the seal wrinkles up around the piston and effectively jams it. Twisting them is not good.
Remember, up here for thinking, down there for dancing!
C
They're an absolutely crap design 
, there ought to be a groove to slip them into, I bet they don't use their 18 fingers and 4 hands back at Toyota when building them
Nick.
, there ought to be a groove to slip them into, I bet they don't use their 18 fingers and 4 hands back at Toyota when building them Nick.
Ey up, av thee sen a Stones and calm down Yooth. That munt guh rantin off like that nah. Folks'ul think thar avin an eppy.
C
C
I have just re-furbished my front calipers, then treated them to new disks, pads, brake pipes and flexi-hoses.
I put the caliper on the bench, removed the rings and dust shields then blocked off one opposing pair of pistons with a wood block and clamped the third piston (with wood and a clamp). I then blew out the fourth piston with an airline, protecting it with a rag.
I cleaned the piston and its cylinder and put the piston back, using red grease and some brake fluid.
Next I clamped off the cleaned one and released on of the others. Then I blew it out with the airline and cleaned it up.
I repeated this until all four had been done.
I then covered all four cleaned pistons plus the bleed nipple with masking tape, wire brushed the caliper and sprayed it with silver Hammerite.
When dry, the masking tape was removed, all pistons blown out a short way and re-cleaned and the cleaned-up rubber seals fitted.
You are right - fitting the rings is a PITA, but I managed it without super glue (took me a couple of hours though ). I resorted to pinning one end down with a small screwdriver, spreading the other end with snipe-nosed pliers, while keeping the loose coil pressed down with some spare fingers. I think they will heal soon 
I made up new brake pipes using 90/10 cupro/nickle pipe and new pipe nuts. I replaced everything back to the brake pipe coil that allows for body lift/roll. I put Copperslip on the pipe under the pipe nut and wrapped the pipe nut thread with PTFE tape to stop it siezing.
This, together with new calipers, disks and so-on on the rear mean that the brakes are now good (and the handbrake will lock the rear wheels if I want it to
).
MOT on Tuesday, and as usual I'm feeling like an 'expectant father'
I have pictures if anyone is interested in the process.
Worth doing now, while the weather is relatively warm.
Bob.
I put the caliper on the bench, removed the rings and dust shields then blocked off one opposing pair of pistons with a wood block and clamped the third piston (with wood and a clamp). I then blew out the fourth piston with an airline, protecting it with a rag.
I cleaned the piston and its cylinder and put the piston back, using red grease and some brake fluid.
Next I clamped off the cleaned one and released on of the others. Then I blew it out with the airline and cleaned it up.
I repeated this until all four had been done.
I then covered all four cleaned pistons plus the bleed nipple with masking tape, wire brushed the caliper and sprayed it with silver Hammerite.
When dry, the masking tape was removed, all pistons blown out a short way and re-cleaned and the cleaned-up rubber seals fitted.
You are right - fitting the rings is a PITA, but I managed it without super glue (took me a couple of hours though
). I resorted to pinning one end down with a small screwdriver, spreading the other end with snipe-nosed pliers, while keeping the loose coil pressed down with some spare fingers. I think they will heal soon I made up new brake pipes using 90/10 cupro/nickle pipe and new pipe nuts. I replaced everything back to the brake pipe coil that allows for body lift/roll. I put Copperslip on the pipe under the pipe nut and wrapped the pipe nut thread with PTFE tape to stop it siezing.
This, together with new calipers, disks and so-on on the rear mean that the brakes are now good (and the handbrake will lock the rear wheels if I want it to
).MOT on Tuesday, and as usual I'm feeling like an 'expectant father'
I have pictures if anyone is interested in the process.
Worth doing now, while the weather is relatively warm.
Bob.
Rear ones done today !
Took it for a quick spin after and they nearly put me through the windscreen, so to say least they're pretty damned good now ! I was looking at getting some s/s braided hoses, but looking at the prices I changed my mind, so I nipped down to milners for a std set, and berger me if the rears didn't start squeeling again when braking I need to let them bed in first before I go for a set of rear discs because I went for a full set of EBC pads which have a friction lining on them to scim the discs and they are rubbing whilst under normal drive, I did the front pads last week and they've bedded in fine, it's just the sqeeling on the rears that's annoying me somewhat, I also removed the anti sqeel shims on the back of the pads last year, they don't seem to make any difference wether they're in or out ! any thoughts ?
Nick.
Took it for a quick spin after and they nearly put me through the windscreen, so to say least they're pretty damned good now ! I was looking at getting some s/s braided hoses, but looking at the prices I changed my mind, so I nipped down to milners for a std set, and berger me if the rears didn't start squeeling again when braking
I need to let them bed in first before I go for a set of rear discs because I went for a full set of EBC pads which have a friction lining on them to scim the discs and they are rubbing whilst under normal drive, I did the front pads last week and they've bedded in fine, it's just the sqeeling on the rears that's annoying me somewhat, I also removed the anti sqeel shims on the back of the pads last year, they don't seem to make any difference wether they're in or out ! any thoughts ?Nick.
I'd agree.BIG clean GREEN said:
I have all-new disks, calipers & pads. No anti-squeal shims and no squealing.
Bob.
New flexi hoses fitted in the week, everything is now tickedy boo and run in, no squeal, no shuddering and stops on a sixpence, first time I've ever tried the ABS !! Happy as a pig in muck with em.
Nick.
Nick.