Centre Diff Lock Actuator, 1993 auto.

Mark Whiteside

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Mar 26, 2010
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ive just took my gearbox out and that was bad enough
i would to make it easier to drop the rear gearbox cross member to give yourself a bit more room
 

Jon Wildsmith

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Feb 24, 2010
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It's a real squeeze Paul. Unbolt the gearbox cross member and lower it as far as it will go and you can just about reach up to the 12mm bolts (3 of them I think) but you have to do it by feel for the top most one.
 
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Paul_Humphreys

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Mar 1, 2010
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Well spent some time today looking/checking the switch/relays. They seem to test ok. Looks like I am lowering the box next week to have a look at he CDL actuator its self!!

I would not like to guess the price of a new one :shock:

Paul
 

Paul_Humphreys

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Jon Wildsmith said:
[quote="Paul_Humphreys":30t20fjn]I would not like to guess the price of a new one :shock:
Same sort of money as the axle actuators last time I looked :cry: It might actually be cheaper to buy a whole new second hand transfer box![/quote:30t20fjn]


You might be right Jon.

Paul
 

Paul_Humphreys

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Never mind, fixed and working again!!

One to watch out for, the breather pipe to the actuator had come off and let water into the actuator. This caused a bad contact on the electrics. The breather is on top of the transfer box and very hard to see.

Paul
 

Rob

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Mar 1, 2010
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I thought I should add the this thread rather than starting a new one. Unfortunately I found out this weekend that my centre diff does not work. There is no light on the dash when I press the CDL switch but I can hear the relay under the dash and the actuator motor running when turning the CDL on and off. My rear and and front difflocks do not engage, they just flash. I know for certain that the centre difflock does not work as when I engaged it only one wheel out of four span. I have been told that the CDL bulb does not flash when engaging and as I can hear the actuator I assume that the relays are working. Am I right in thinking that there is a fault with the actuator? Also if the motor is still running would spraying WD40 down the breather help?
 

Paul_Humphreys

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Hi Rob,
I have a replacement here from Karl, but I have not had time to fit it yet. But you are right, the light goes solid when it is "in". I did remove mine and clean the inside and it has worked for a bit, but it is time to replace it now as it is playing up again.

It could be that the breather pipe has split and let damp in, this is what happened to mine. To replace/remove the CDL actuator you need to drop the gear box cross member and drop the rear of the box a bit. It would help if you have small hands!!

I should have mine done next weekend, so I could take some pictures if you want.

Paul
 

Rob

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Mar 1, 2010
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Thanks for the reply Paul, I have had a look at the photos and the FSM and have identified the breather so I shall try the WD40 and check the condition of the breather pipe first. Is there enough room when you drop the box to get a socket and ratchet spanner in there or will I need to rely on spanners? Also does the box need supporting when the cross member is removed or can I just leave it hanging there? Will the cooling fan on the front of the engine hit the shroud on the rad if the box is dropped?

Paul_Humphreys said:
But you are right, the light goes solid when it is "in"
So this means it does not flash? Im trying to identify if I have 2 problems or one so I want to clear this up. I hope Im not asking too many obvious questions :oops:
 

Paul_Humphreys

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The light does not flash. I use the jack that I use to lower the box to support it. I use a 3/8" socket set from memory.

As for the fan, I never looked :sick: but not had a problem since when I did it.

Paul
 
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