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Centre diff lock fault not working **now fixed !!**

Mikeharris1992

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Hello, I'm mike.

I have looked a fair bit at threads for this subject but I can't find any that don't have a light come up on th dash at all.

My amazon centre diff lock, and rear diff lock don't work, rear one just flashes, I'm guessing will be the usaul Toyota seized actuator, but its the centre one that I want to fix first.

So bit of info, I have no centre diff lock light on the dash. Not even when you first put ignition on, when the rear one pops up and goes of, there is no centre diff lock one.

So I swapped the bulbs in the dash to check it hadn't popped, still nothing.

Check the fuses in the nearside front under the black cover in the kick panel, all ok, I have one marked diff? Is that the centre or the rear one? I got told one marked gauge? Or somthing is another one to do with the difflock, I'm pretty sure I checked them all and none where blown, but il re Check to be sure.

I took the switch apart to look at the circuit board solder joints appear ok, not dry, wiring apppears ok to the switch in the dash.

You push the centre diff lock button and nothing happens, no lights, no noise, no relays click, nothing. Tried it in high and low range.

Also there is nothing that comes up on th dash to show it's in low range, only the abs light comes I guess as it gets tuned of in low range.

So I guess questions to start, how many fuses are there? And where are they if I haven't been looking at the right ones, and also what are good things to check to rule out, or tests to rule stuff out.

Please help guys

Best regards

Mike
 
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Just so that you're aware, the rear won't lock until the centre is engaged. So the flashing light for the rear locker doesn't necessarily mean it's not working - just that it can't at the moment. So you do need to adress the centre one first as you are doing. Hopefully, the rear one will then burst into life.
 
Hi there,

Thanks for the info. That's very interesting to know, car has done high milage 316k and I'm not sure it's been used in any low traction or Offroad work, but il remain hopeful.

Thanks for the advice, been reading threads on this forum lots of helpful stuff !
 
I'm no expert on the 100 series but there may be a separate fuse for the centre lock. It would be labelled CDL

There's plenty of 100 series owners on here. They'll be along once they've had their tea.
 
Ok cool il have another look, all the fuses under the black cover in the near side footwell where ok, hopefully people will be able to assist.

Have any people bought the rear ones into life, or still have working originals?
 
Well I'd say that the chances of resurrecting a rear locker are about the same as surviving Covid 19 on a ventilator. Pretty slim. Electrically they're pretty good and it's rare that it's the electronic controls. It does happen but more often it's corrosion. When you bolt alloy to steel and cover it in salt and water, the axle usually wins.

But again, miracles do happen.
 
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I had a Colorado last year and the diff lock had actually falled off the rear axle lol

Crusty bits, I've read lots of threads on many forums and I've even been sent wiring diagram for the diff lock, I just can't make sense of it.

I wonder if it's a poor connection between the fuse and the fuse holder.
 
So driving into work this morning the relays down in the nearside foot well are going bonkers !! Clicking like mad !! Please help !!
 
Hello, I'm mike.

I have looked a fair bit at threads for this subject but I can't find any that don't have a light come up on th dash at all.

My amazon centre diff lock, and rear diff lock don't work, rear one just flashes, I'm guessing will be the usaul Toyota seized actuator, but its the centre one that I want to fix first.

So bit of info, I have no centre diff lock light on the dash. Not even when you first put ignition on, when the rear one pops up and goes of, there is no centre diff lock one.

So I swapped the bulbs in the dash to check it hadn't popped, still nothing.

Check the fuses in the nearside front under the black cover in the kick panel, all ok, I have one marked diff? Is that the centre or the rear one? I got told one marked gauge? Or somthing is another one to do with the difflock, I'm pretty sure I checked them all and none where blown, but il re Check to be sure.

I took the switch apart to look at the circuit board solder joints appear ok, not dry, wiring apppears ok to the switch in the dash.

You push the centre diff lock button and nothing happens, no lights, no noise, no relays click, nothing. Tried it in high and low range.

Also there is nothing that comes up on th dash to show it's in low range, only the abs light comes I guess as it gets tuned of in low range.

So I guess questions to start, how many fuses are there? And where are they if I haven't been looking at the right ones, and also what are good things to check to rule out, or tests to rule stuff out.

Please help guys

Best regards

Mike
Have any people bought the rear ones into life, or still have working originals?
Hi Mike,

Fuses,

Just for confirmation, fuse 52. Diff 20A: Four-wheel drive system, right side kick panel, fuse 39. Gauge1 10a: Gauges and meters, left side kick panel.

Why fuse 39 is Gauge1 I don't know as there is no other fuse named 'Gauge', also no other fuses named 'Diff' acording to my owner's manual.

My RDL works, but my 2004 100 has only done 89,000, and I keep my RDL coverd in corrosion inhibitor

Other than that, I would just do as your doing, check things in a logical order, starting with the easiest, also, I know you said you have tested the fuses but I think I would also change the fuses in question just for the hell of it.

Good Luck, squawk if you need any more info.
 
Right so both diff lock share the same fuse.

Il go into a bit deeper, might try and power down the non power feed side of fuse.

The bit I find the most odd is there's no light on the dash ! Ever ! Could you guys confirm for me that light comes on when Igntion is put on please?

The rear one comes on and goes off. Flashes when rear diff lock button is engaged and continues to flash, I'm guessing as it's not engaged.
 
The rear one comes on and goes off. Flashes when rear diff lock button is engaged and continues to flash, I'm guessing as it's not engaged.
I don't wish to be rude, but do you know how to get the rear diff lock to engage, as it's not just a matter of turning the switch. While stationery the RDL light will flash, flashing only is telling you the RDL is not engaged, you need to be in low range with the RDL switch in the RR position, for the RDL to then engage one of the rear wheels has to turn faster than the other, to do that just drive stright for a short distance then turn left or right, do this until the red RDL lights stops flashing. if the red RDL light doesn't stop flashing then you RDL has not or will not engaged, so the chances are there is a fault with the RDL.

No, the Orange CDL light does not come on when the ign is turned on, the Red RDL does but not the orange CDL, the orange CDL light only illuminates when the push button switch in pushed in when in high range, it will also automatically illuminate when low range is engaged.

If the RDL engages do not drive fast or drive with RDL engaged on a hard non slipery surface for any distance, as one of your rear wheel will scrub and undue stress will be put on the diff.

I check mine every now and then in a big car park close by.

Hope this makes sense, and if of some help.

Good Luck.
 
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Yeh man I've had lots of cruisers for years on and off, just never had one with this issue.

I done pretty much exactly them steps you just said with the rear locker, and no joy, but a guy previously said the rear doesn't work without the centre engaged.

Could you let me know if there should be a light for low range? I just get the abs light come in I guess it's turned of in low, so I'd say there's a switch doing its job in the tbox somewhere as must send signal to switch abs ecu off.

I'm now starting to wonder if the motor is just stuck? Il wake up early before work and have a play again.
 
Yeh man I've had lots of cruisers for years on and off, just never had one with this issue.

I done pretty much exactly them steps you just said with the rear locker, and no joy, but a guy previously said the rear doesn't work without the centre engaged.

Could you let me know if there should be a light for low range? I just get the abs light come in I guess it's turned of in low, so I'd say there's a switch doing its job in the tbox somewhere as must send signal to switch abs ecu off.

I'm now starting to wonder if the motor is just stuck? Il wake up early before work and have a play again.
Yes, if you put in low range both Orange CDL and Red RDL lights light up, as does Orange CDL light in high range.

Red CDL once the RR is selected.
 
Ok cool, so next il move onto the motor first, as I think the switches must be ok if it turn of the abs, anyoyingly this cruiser came with a complete tbox and gearbox I sold not long ago.

Which is really annoying.

I've got pics of it so just looking at it now try and work out a plan of how to test what, will only have hour or so before work.
 

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Yeh man I've had lots of cruisers for years on and off, just never had one with this issue.

I done pretty much exactly them steps you just said with the rear locker, and no joy, but a guy previously said the rear doesn't work without the centre engaged.

Could you let me know if there should be a light for low range? I just get the abs light come in I guess it's turned of in low, so I'd say there's a switch doing its job in the tbox somewhere as must send signal to switch abs ecu off.

I'm now starting to wonder if the motor is just stuck? Il wake up early before work and have a play again.
Oh well just thought it might be worth a try.

Good Luck.
 
I thought you were on the trace and track of sorting the CDL as that seems the key to sorting the diff lock problems, have you proved or disproved that the CDL Actuator has power or not ? You should be able to reach the CDL actuator under the car on top of the Transfer case.

3641060061.jpg
 
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Ok bud il try seeing if there's power there next

There's a switch just forward of the actuator I took out and cleaned up, to begin with it wouldn't make a circuit I freed it off with contact cleaner

But it only works when depressed fully with a lot of force.
 

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So this is in low range and the dash looks like this, just to clarify what lights should be on?
 

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This is rear diff lock selected low range (red light flashing) abs light comes on and stays on.
 

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