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Check engine light, code 33 (LC95 1kz)

AndrewG88

New Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2017
Messages
4
Good day guys,

I have spent a good month researching on code 33 (intake constrictor control signal) for the 1kz. I have found nothing that helps my situation. I looked on old threads from this forum and others and tried downloading the manuals with no avail. Please I am asking for help especially from the pros. P.S I am not a professional and I just recently bought the LC, cause i wanted one for a very long time as a project vehicle .

My story goes like this:
The cruiser had a long period of start up, the mechanic suggested it was the glow plugs, we changed it, it started up fine when cold but when warm it would take a few cranks. But in the process he made the check engine light came up, since he is not experienced with land cruisers he blamed that something was wrong with my sensors and it was not a part of his fault. He did many battery resets and i did not approved of what he did......... So then I went on forums, i bought the vacuum switched and hoses, even checked the diaphragm (the throttle body side moves) Changed them and now I am just mind boggled.

P.S he cross threaded my bolt for the throttle body, it was a real pain in the ass to remove, I had to cut the nut off , hoping to convinced myself this was the vacuum leak that would solve the problem, but back to square one.

Thank you for reading, please help me.
 
Most of the vacuum related stuff on these trucks are on the back of the intake. It controls the small butterfly valve, and EGR system. Check the hoses back there that none are missing/loose. Also check the solenoids themselves too that are bolted on the back of the intake manifold that all the plugs are connected. From memory, one out of the 3 solenoids back there will trigger the check engine light. The others wont.

It sounds as though this "mechanical" is the cause of this problem. Regardless, this check engine light should not be causing a hard start when warm.
 
And check the crank case breather pipe , to my mind a split in that pipe shouldn't matter but experience tells me it does .
 
Most of the vacuum related stuff on these trucks are on the back of the intake. It controls the small butterfly valve, and EGR system. Check the hoses back there that none are missing/loose. Also check the solenoids themselves too that are bolted on the back of the intake manifold that all the plugs are connected. From memory, one out of the 3 solenoids back there will trigger the check engine light. The others wont.

It sounds as though this "mechanical" is the cause of this problem. Regardless, this check engine light should not be causing a hard start when warm.
Hi Beau, I changed one of the solenoids, ordered from amayama and all hoses. Checked the second solenoid after the first one has changed. I did not see a third VSV (and on diagrams i did not find it). And sorry if my story wasn't clear, I was saying that I brought my cruiser to the mechanic cause of a long start issue, he stated it was the glow plugs, i bought toyota genuine glow plugs and he proceeded to change it. In process of doing this he caused a CEL to appear. As he is not a pro at cruisers he blamed the age of my vehicle. So i took in a lot of reading over the months from the forums and changed the VSV solenoid and hoses. Now I am stuck.
 
I think I meant two solenoids, not three, sorry for the confusion.

It's got to be something he unplugged that has the check engine light coming on. The only plugs I could think of is the air flow meter that runs through the top black intake piece, is that one plugged in? Then just below the front side area is a coolant temp sensor, check that. It's got to be something at the rear of the intake he messed with... Have a look online at pics of the engine bay and make sure yours looks the same towards the rear.
 
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I think I meant two solenoids, not three, sorry for the confusion.

It's got to be something he unplugged that has the check engine light coming on. The only plugs I could think of is the air flow meter that runs through the top black intake piece, is that one plugged in? Then just below the front side area is a coolant temp sensor, check that. It's got to be something at the rear of the intake he messed with... Have a look online at pics of the engine bay and make sure yours looks the same towards the rear.
The only thing I know that could have effected it, is that i saw the wiring for the solenoid closest to the throttle body side damaged and kissing when he was finished with it, but I soldered it back. Can this cause a short even though i tested the solenoid and voltage for the plugs?
 
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